Most Important Runway Shows by City

[CharlottefromCA]

YES YES. I remember when Balmain (and Isabel Marant) basically had 1-2 new faces per season and the rest were made up of Daria Werbowy, Carmen Kass, Freja, Snejana, Anja, etc.. if you were that one new girl. you knew you were stellar.

 

[MyNameIs]

Marni should definitely be ranked higher than Gianfranco, DSquared, Armani, and Moschino. I would put it somewhere in the top 8. I feel like this list is quite subjective depending on who looks at it, if it were up to me the lists would be switched around some more. I honestly would rather see it in alphabetical order since it can kind of be up for debate.

It is subjective. There's no formula where you can plug in numbers and get exact position for each show. And a lot of these are splitting hair. As far as Marni goes, I think it's one of those shows that has a 'cult' status, but they usually lack star power in their casts and there isn't much hype around their casts.

For New York I'd definitely add Altuzarra to the list since it's cast by Michelle Lee. Y-3 is cast by Maida and Rami so that should be on there too. Also Diesel Black Gold, Prabal Gurung and as someone else has said Rag & Bone.

I meant to put Altuzarra where I have Thakoon. I do agree it belongs on the list. I forgot Prabal Gurung and Rag & Bone. Diesel Black Gold - I'm not sure. Y-3 though, despite the name casting directors, seems like a B list show. What do others think?

what about blumarine, dolce & gabbana, lacoste, & jason wu?

I realized I forgot Dolce and Jason Wu as soon as my time was up to edit the post. Definitely agree both should be on the list. Although Dolce has really dropped in the rankings the last few seasons. Not sure about Lacoste. Maybe. Blumarine used to be one of the top shows with big stars, but they've gone a different direction the last few seasons and it doesn't look like they're trying anymore.

 

[MyNameIs]

My list was really in no way meant to be a definitive verdict on these shows. If anything, it's more of a starting point for us to discuss and improve on. Anybody has any suggestions for how we could do it?

What about something like this. Starting with New York. We take the top five shows on my list and each person will have a chance to rank them in the order of their importance. But you must also provide some analysis for why each belongs where you place it. I would then try to find a consensus based on everyone's comments. Once the first five are done, we'll take the next five and do the same thing, except we could also decide if any of these belong higher in the ranking. Once we get further down the list, we could also decide if a show doesn't belong on the list at all. Once we're done with the shows on the list, we'll then have a round to discuss any omitted shows that need to be included. This would be time consuming and would take us weeks if not months, but if there's interest, I'd be up for it.

Also, we should talk about the criteria to use for it. Just looking at which show makes stars is too narrow, imo. There are very few shows that can claim that and even they don't always guarantee success. It's definitely one of the criteria, but also, star power walking the show each season, people behind the scenes (casting directors, stylists, etc), designer him/herself, the intangibles (reputation, hype, history, etc).

Could be fun.

 

[kab348]

Maybe the casting director for each show could also be listed next to the show?

 

[anlabe32]

My personal thoughts.

1. Calvin Klein Collection. It's obviously one of the biggest brands in the world, very iconic. They've contributed quite a lot to careers of Christy Turlington, Kate Moss, Natalia Vodianova, Lara Stone and Suvi Koponen.
They've been doing exclusives for a long time now, and even if an exclusive rarely becomes successful afterwards, they are considered one of the most prestigious and most talked about. Maida & Rami are the CD's who also cast Jil Sander and Dior.

2. Alexander Wang. He's really hot right now so obviously everybody is watching his shows. He's having exclusives who are slightly more successful than CK's. He also loves to stunt in his casts and already had Gisele Bundchen, Natalia Vodianova, Karolina Kurkova and Shalom Harlow walk his shows. He's had big named models in his campaigns too shot by one of the biggest photographers.
Also, as head of Balenciaga he's quite influential as well. Anita Bitton casts his shows and she also casts Balenciaga and Louis Vuitton.

Alexander and Calvin are neck in neck though.

3. Marc Jacobs. He's one of the most iconic and powerful designers ever, who has launched quite a few careers. His shows in NY are usually a tastemaker for Louis Vuitton in Paris. Lately they feature too many newbies though. Katie Grand styles his shows and even if she's very influential as well, I hate the socialite/hipster models she brings into his shows. They do generate buzz. Michelle Lee casts his shows and she also casts Versace and Celine.

4. Proenza Schouler are slowly taking in the third place. They are currently one of the best designers working and their casts are quite exclusive as well. Quite a few veterans have returned to the catwalk for them (Liya, Sasha, Luca, Heather, Kirsty, Georgina). Ashley Brokaw is casting director and she's the biggest right now, also casting Prada and Miu Miu.

5. Michael Kors. He's the most commercial out of the top 5, and the biggest luxury brand of America. And he's the most consistent, with many top models walking for him. He's so loyal though, that many don't (read: nobody) stand a chance at scoring his campaigns. Once you do, you're provided with years of work. John Pfeiffer casts his show and he also casts Donna Karan and Victoria's Secret.

This is just my point of view.

 

[widowsofculloden]

I meant to put Altuzarra where I have Thakoon. I do agree it belongs on the list. I forgot Prabal Gurung and Rag & Bone. Diesel Black Gold - I'm not sure. Y-3 though, despite the name casting directors, seems like a B list show. What do others think?

I guess it depends on what your criteria is when deciding what makes a show important (we need to clarify what this means).
Diesel Black Gold may not have the status of some of the other top shows however it's cast by John Pfeiffer (who casts Victoria's Secret) and styled by Marie-Amélie Sauvé. Good models always walk that show.

I totally forgot! Thanks for reminding me!

To add to the discussion, I definitely think that Gucci is the most important show out of all the cities. It's really hard for a new girl to get in, and even when she does, she only gets 1 outfit. A lot of that girls have caught my attention I noticed at Gucci first like Katya R, Lin K etc

I agree with this, there aren't any shows that are as selective as Gucci still is anymore. Prada and Balenciaga CAN be good for a model's career but they're not indicative. Too many new faces/exclusives that never substantiate to anything.

 

[intern22]

Zac Posen should Defenitely be higher on that list. For years now the five holy grail shows have been Prada, Gucci, Chanel, Balenciaga, and Jil Sander. I didn't make this list ! this is just a known thing around the industry and these are what some in the industry have coined "the five holy grail". if it were up to me they should add Givenchy, Calvin Klein, and Tom Ford and just start saying the eight holy grail

 

[ad31214]

I don't know why Chanel is mentioned so much on this thread lol

 

[CharlottefromCA]

Is Jil Sander the SAME Jil Sander thought now that Raf Simmons is no longer at the helm? I feel like people don't pay attention to the castings quite as much.

And I agree about Chanel being a great platform for new girls (especially if Karl has you open) b/c Karl is relatively loyal with the girls he chooses. He gives them at least 3-4 seasons before he moves on to the next. You can't say the same about Calvin Klein, Prada and the rest.. one season in and next season out... "star makers" yeah..

 

[lebigt]

^I'd say eyes haven't wandered away from Jil since Raf left. Still very much a show to look at and pay attention to who's momentum will build in Europe.

 

[CharlottefromCA]

People definitely still look at Jil Sander, I'm not saying its a B-list show by any means. Still can be considered A-list, but I just don't see it on par with Prada / Gucci in Milan anymore. That wasn't the case though about 4-5 seasons ago.

 

[anlabe32]

You're absolutely right. Since Jil returned casts have become too much focused on newbies. She doesn't seem very loyal either, while Raf is one of the most loyal designers who has supported Natasha, Kasia, Daria, Kinga, Anabela and now Daiane, Nastya, Anna and Suvi.

It's still one of the most exclusive shows to land for a newbie.

 

[valliaddict]

To add to the discussion, I definitely think that Gucci is the most important show out of all the cities. It's really hard for a new girl to get in, and even when she does, she only gets 1 outfit. A lot of that girls have caught my attention I noticed at Gucci first like Katya R, Lin K etc

I agree with this 100%. Gucci is the only show now where I notice every single girl. I can tell you almost every girl that walked the show without looking, & that's because over half the girls they cast are established & have walked the show before. They're definitely the biggest of all the cities right now.

I base the importance of walking a show on the prestige of the campaign. If landing the campaign is a big deal, then the show is a big deal too.

 

[anlabe32]

I base the importance of walking a show on the prestige of the campaign. If landing the campaign is a big deal, then the show is a big deal too.

That theory doesn't apply. Think Giorgio Armani, and walking Nina Ricci among many unknown models is certainly a big difference from getting the campaign shot by Inez and Vinoodh.
Just to name a few.

 

[AlbertNoir]

It also depends by the times..8 years ago Gianfranco Ferrè was an A-list show because of the relevance of the designer (cast with Naomi, Alek Wek, Mariacarla, Erin O'Connor and go on)..now it's a filler name on the Milan fashion week schedule and it's so sad because he was a genius!

There're hystorical names that I call "evergreen" of fashion, if you think at Chanel, Dior, Valentino etc..of course these are always a good point for a model.
Then there're the cool brands: Balmain and Balenciaga are super relevant maison in history of fashion, but in the recent times they have turned into an "it name" (as well as Proenza Schouler and Alexander Wang) after several years of previous "decadence".

Btw this is my list:

MOST IMPORTANT SHOWS BY CITY

New York

The coolest

Alexander Wang
Altuzarra
Anna Sui
Derek Lam
Diesel Black Gold
Jason Wu
Marc Jacobs
Prabal Gurung
Proenza Schouler
Rodarte
Thakoon


The evergreen (prestige, power, fame of the brand worldwide etc)

Calvin Klein
Carolina Herrera
Diane von Furstenberg
Donna Karan
Michael Kors
Oscar de la Renta
Ralph Lauren
Tommy Hilfiger

* Zac Posen show is more like a media event.


London

Burberry Prorsum
Christopher Kane
Daks
Giles
Jonathan Saunders
Julien MacDonald
Matthew Williamson
Paul Smith
Topshop

Milan

Alberta Ferretti
Blumarine
Dolce & Gabbana
Emilio Pucci
Etro
Gucci
Jil Sander
Fendi
MaxMara
Missoni
Prada
Roberto Cavalli
Salvatore Ferragamo
Versace

Options (cool or fresh names)

Aquilano.Rimondi
Bottega Veneta
Francesco Scognamiglo
Marni
N.21 by Alessandro Dell'Acqua

* Giorgio Armani is BIG as Ralph Lauren but def not the most important show to walk for a model in Milan

Paris

Evergreen (prestige/power, fame of the brand worldwide etc)

Balenciaga
Celine
Chanel
Chloé
Christian Dior
Jean Paul Gaultier
Lanvin
Louis Vuitton
Miu Miu
Saint Laurent
Valentino

Coolest or also relevant names

Alexander McQueen
Anthony Vaccarello
Balmain
Dries Van Noten
Haider Ackermann
Hermès
Kenzo
Sonia Rykiel
Stella McCartney
Viktor & Rolf

 

[ad31214]

^ Personally, I would have Fendi and Rag & Bone up there.

 

[AlbertNoir]

^ look at Fendi in Milan .. you're right I missed Rag & Bone in NYC and also Tom Ford in London

 

[Cold]

What makes Aquilano.Rimondi a "cool" show? Who styles or casts the show? I have noticed some girls of the moment usually included in their lineup.

And I really think JW Anderson should be included in London's list

 

[anlabe32]

^^ those are all the big name designers/houses, but not all of those big houses can make a difference for a model's career. I mean, walking Chloe or JPG is great for a model but nobody looks at those shows when they're searching for cool/hip models.

They do look at other shows, like Calvin, Proenza, MJ, Wang, Christopher Kane, Giles, Prada, Marni, Jil Sander, Balenciaga, Celine, LV and Miu Miu.

 

[lebigt]

^^JW should DEF be included for London.