Naoki Takizawa S/S 09 Tokyo

[runner]

 

[runner]

 

[runner]

afp

 

[Whitelinen]

The shoes are awful, but the clothing is sublime! I especially like the materials, prints and veils.

Thanks once again, Runner!

 

[Inaya]

thanks runner!!

I agree the materials are great and I love the colors as well.

 

[runner]

you are welcome



the place it was held is the museum annex of Tokyo University.
while F/W 08 was an ornithological collection where they described feather using Kyoto-Yuzen hand-drawn technique,
this time they featured the entomological specimens by Kakichi Mitsukuri (1858-1909, a zoologist born in edo/tokyo) and made the photos of them by Yoshihiko Ueda into Nishijin textile which is produced specifically in a certain area of Kyoto.


the zoologist

tvt.ne.jp


the photographer's work

akaaka.com


an example of Nishijin (the neckband/collar)
my pic

 

[travolta]

gorgeous. thanks runner!

 

[runner]

you're welcome travolta



I like this print very much somehow.
maybe it reminds me of my favorite shirt I wore as a kid.


elle

 

[wheneveriwakeup]

It's gorgeous...
That butterfly print is so unexpected but so very right, oddly enough...
Thanks runner!

 

[gius]

this time they featured the entomological specimens by Kakichi Mitsukuri (1858-1909, a zoologist born in edo/tokyo) and made the photos of them by Yoshihiko Ueda into Nishijin textile which is produced specifically in a certain area of Kyoto.

so interesting, thank you runner
So nishijin is a weaving technique, right? Like on the collar you posted.

Then the photos are made into woven designs? The lace perhaps in this collection

 

[runner]

you're welcome wiw, gius


it seems that there are some techniques nishijin is good at, but mostly it's the generic name for textiles produced in a specific area of kyoto called nishijin, like say bordeaux. it's brand, sort of guild as well.
and yes woven design based on the photos.
generally, formal attire in traditional japanese style is defined as a combo of kimono from a dyer and obi from a weaver (the reverse combo is for informal/casual dress).
and a dyer here refers to yuzen, a weaver refers to nishijin.
although it's not like nishijin is prosperous today, it's rather established for sure.


http://www.nishijin.or.jp/

 

[gius]

Oh I've watched a video of this hand weaving The men had one finger which had a long fingernail. And the fingernail had grooves on the edge (like a hair comb), so that they could push the threads into the fabric easier
I can't remember if it was about Japanese weaving though

Are the clothes in Takizawa's collection really woven? They mostly look like prints... I wish there were closeups. And this t-shirt with the butterflies you posted also looks like a print, than woven.
The butterfly lace is the only one that's clear...

If most of the dresses are woven, it seems they are using more "kasuri" than nishijin based on the appearance of the patterns...

 

[runner]

gius, as I said, the butterflies on the top are a print.
nishijin is taken up as highlights of this season, just like the way yuzen was in the previous season.
but it's not like most of the clothes are nishijin.
only a little part of the collection is nishijin, like the white one as you say.
generally the traditional things such as nishijin, yuzen are something precious and cultural.
if a designer adopts them into the whole collection, the business will not pay. the prices have to be astronomical figures.
of course they should be very appealing to a designer, but it's very challenging to use them.
without the cost issue, if they are done in a truly authentic way, there are many other usual designs overwhelmed easily. however if they are simplified carelessly or are modernized with designer's complacency, they look just cheap immediately, and ruin the whole collection. any designer would have to be cautious.
in the yuzen collection from even yohji, only a part of it was actual yuzen. but I guess that was effective enough.


the serrated nail technique that nishijin is good at is called tsuzure, and if you read the explanation on the site in the link, it dates back to 1580 b.c. in egypt.

so nishijin is not a name for a specific weaving technique. kasuri too is one of the kinds that are typical of nishijin. it's just that you'd see the textile products of elaborate and refined workmanship there that would be difficult to see at other places today. that is why nishijin is famous here, although I don't know well if nishijin has developed some original techniques in their millennium history, anyway they are famous for the sublimation and quality.
their site says india is the birthplace of kasuri, btw.

 

[gius]

ahh i see, thank you
yeah, in the photo you posted of the collar, it is a type of brocade; and also i checked the japanese dictionary and it said silk brocade. so i see now, it is just intricate woven fabrics in general

that is totally understandable,
about business...
i guess the 'essence' of woven fabrics is inside even the prints, so that is fine in the end. i mean the prints look very tactile also. the tones are full of depth
One interesting thing i keep seeing lately though is that even designed fabrics that are woven by machine, they are still quite expensive (for example Comme des Garcons had an old men's collection with woven patterns).

hmm my instructor was telling me today, no client/customer can ever really pay you completely, for the work you put into a garment...

i will check those links
i agree too, about india and kasuri

 

[enVogue]

I don't like this collection