Model Muse
A more perfect subject for rebellious beauty you couldn’t find. Supermodel and mistress of tough glamor NAOMI CAMPBELL talks to JO CRAVEN about her new TV role, and why she will always speak her mind.
Naomi Campbell is back in London and couldn’t be happier. This beautiful, most notorious of supermodels has returned to her home city to
pursue a surprising new chapter in her phenomenal career. She is hosting the British version of the modeling show of the moment,
The Face.
It is over a quarter of a century since her first British Vogue cover in 1987, when she was the magazine’s first black cover star since 1966. That was just two years after she had been spotted, a Streatham schoolgirl, out window shopping in Covent Garden. Now, it is Campbell’s turn to do the discovering, as a mentor to young models on the show.
When she arrives at The Edit’s shoot, Campbell is wearing a printed Dolce & Gabbana baby-doll sundress, oversized sunglasses and Alaïa flat sandals, insouciantly cool while a heat wave grips the rest of London. “We’re filming the show in my home country, so I want it to be better than amazing,” she says in a transatlantic voice that still has a south London edge to it. “London’s always been a place where great new talent emerges, and home is where you are judged the most.”
Campbell’s motivation for this new phase stems from her reflecting on her career. “I want people to really understand what the world of modeling is about, and how hard we work,” she says. It follows her perhaps less well-known charity work, raising money for Haiti, Aids relief, Nelson Mandela Children’s Fund for vulnerable children and Fashion For Relief, Campbell’s own charity that she founded in 2005. Now, she is giving back to her own industry: “I like the mentoring aspect, as opposed to sitting in my chair and judging someone. It’s really rewarding to see the models transformed and it makes me feel like I’m doing something right.”
Campbell views the show as a challenge: “I want to see a different side of me.” The Face – which includes an episode featuring THE OUTNET.COM – pits Campbell’s talents against her fellow model judges, Erin O’Connor and Caroline Winberg, as they track down, nurture and mentor a future model star. “Whether my model wins or not, she will have learned and we will have helped her – that’s really why I came on the show,” she says.
Television is a gear-shift for the woman who has spent years silently commanding the photographic lenses of the world’s greatest photographers, from Steven Meisel to Mario Testino. Her life has been at the very core of fashion: walking for the late Yves Saint Laurent; befriending Azzedine Alaïa; posing for the late Richard Avedon. “I learned something from each and every one I worked with; their different styles and ways of how they wanted you to be,” she says.
A strong determinant of Campbell’s success to date is clearly her drive. “First and foremost I want to get the job done,” she states emphatically. Brought up by a single mother, Valerie, Campbell studied ballet at the Italia Conti Academy of Theatre Arts before beginning her stellar modeling career. “My mum is one of my main mentors,” says Campbell. “She always gave me the best advice.” (In the early days, Campbell says ballet helped inform her model poses, when she didn’t know what else to do.)
Another huge inspiration to Campbell is Nelson Mandela. They met in 1994, and Campbell is in close contact with him. “He’s 95 and I’m just happy that he’s here
today,” she says when we talk on the day of his birthday, her voice charged with emotion. “There will never be anyone like him again. When you meet him, you just get such a positive aura. It’s incredible.”
Campbell has found time again for modeling. She returned to the runway earlier this year, walking for the Versace Atelier FW13 couture show in Paris – she hadn’t walked for the Italian brand for 14 years. Her runway turn was naturally show-stopping, silencing the room, yet Campbell reveals a surprising insecurity about it. “I was quite stunned at the reaction – I remember the room being quiet and I thought, ’Oh my God, they don’t want me here!’,” she recalls. In fact, the media went crazy over her. It was also a personal moment, as Campbell was reunited with Donatella Versace, the sister of her great friend, the late Gianni Versace. “It was emotional for me to do the show after 14 years,” she says. “I knew about it for months and couldn’t tell anyone. When I did my fitting in those amazing clothes, it was just overwhelming.”
Physically, Campbell is in her prime: at 43, her Amazonian physique seeming more age-defying than ever. The key to preserving her other-worldly body is yoga: “Since I had my operation on my knee [in 2012, after being reportedly mugged], Pilates has become very important,” she says. “I don’t want to build muscle, just to tone. I’m not extreme about what I eat – I let chocolate and crisps come in at times. You have to allow the little things that make you happy.” But there are times when she makes an extra effort: “For ten days prior to the Versace show, I just drank juice – carrot, ginger, pineapple – to cleanse.”
But Campbell isn’t the only one of the original ’90s supers showing they’ve still got it. Kate Moss, Cindy Crawford, Claudia Schiffer, Christy Turlington and Linda Evangelista have all maintained lucrative careers, and most now have growing business interests, from fashion to homeware labels. “When we all get together we talk about the fun times we’ve had, and the work that we’ve done together through the years,” Campbell says.
She is conscious of how much has changed in the industry since she started. “It’s very important to have a personality; it’s not just about a pretty face any more. The model who wins The Face will work for a huge brand. She has to be able to go to stores and speak about the product.” Not that Campbell was ever “just” anything; she has always been a personality. Remember her laughter when she took a tumble on the runway in 1993 in those Vivienne Westwood platforms? Then, there have been temper management issues, she was called to the Hague as a witness in a war crimes tribunal in 2010, and there have been a string of high-profile relationships, but speaking her mind and being nothing but exactly who she is have always been Campbell’s priorities.
A subject she has often been vocal about is the underrepresentation of black models on the covers of glossy magazines. "I do think there is still racism. Joan Smalls and Jourdan Dunn [both of whom have been cover stars for The Edit] and I speak with each other and, sometimes, I’m a little horrified with the things they tell me.” Campbell has been a figurehead for this issue, speaking out recently at New York Fashion Week about the small number of black models on the runway.
Seven hours on from our shoot, having created yet more stunning images to add to her portfolio, Campbell slips back into her Dolce sundress and out the door, off to film her TV show. What the girls she mentors on The Face won’t learn from her isn’t worth knowing. The Face is on Sky Living HD now. THE OUTNET will take part in episode 3, airing October 14.