The F/W 2026.27 Show Schedules...

Source: digital diamondsInterview: Natalie Joos (Casting Director)
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Streetstyle shot via streetpeeper.com
The right styling, the best and most flattering lightning, a certain vibe throughout the whole editorial-theme/ fashionshow..... all of these things are decisive for a designer to present his masterpieces in the best way possible. But what is even more crucial: the right model-choice.
"Hand-picked" girls by the designers themselves are rare these days and therefore, the profession of a casting director became more and more important. And among Russel Marsh, Maida & Rami or Kannon Rajah, Natalie Joos is doing an awesome job - always being spot on with her choices (for fashion shows like VPL and Yigal Azrouel, magazines -take Vogue Nippon or i-D as an example- and also a-list campaigns like Hugo by Hugo Boss). A model-cast can give a completely different atmosphere to a show. It can give benefit to the clothes. And it can make a deep impression on the audience. It can give a picture exactly the feeling and mood it needs (essential for a campaign!). And Natalie certainly manages to create this accurate feeling. Therfore, we are more than honoured to present you our interview with her now:
We learned from Models.com that you were Craig McDean’s Studio Manager - which is a job 99% of us fashionistas would kill for. Tell us why you’ve decided to leave him and to start up your own business as casting director?
I loved being Craig's studio manager but after being there for more than 5 years I started outgrowing my position and itching to do something else, on my own. When I left, it was Craig who encouraged me to pursue casting as a career.
How did you actually get started in the fashion business? Has it always been your dream to work in the industry?
I have always been interested in fashion. I bought my 1st fashion magazine (i-D) when I was 12 I think. And when I graduated from high school and had to make a choice for higher education I contemplated going to the Antwerp Academy to study design. I was always making my mom sew clothes for me for the New Year's parties. I designed them and she sewed them. But I opted to try University first. And that went brilliantly so I continued. I wrote my thesis on the "ideal standards of beauty in mass media" so even in university, studying journalism, i kept my interest in fashion alive and it drew me to the right places and people. Eventually, i ended up in New York and the rest is history. It was never a dream, just a healthy interest, but I was nevertheless and unwarily drawn into the industry.
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Iris Strubegger by Paola Kudacki on the cover of Hercules Mag & Snejana Onopka by Maria Sorrenti for Hugo by Hugo Boss Fall08
When you audition models, what are some of the qualities you’re looking for? Is there a certain look you prefer?
I like pretty girls. Models have to be models. They have to stand out from us mere mortals. I want to look at a girl and go: Wow you are fantastic looking!
What is your definition of natural beauty?
I think natural beauty comes from within. A happy face is a beautiful face. A smile, bright eyes, pink cheeks. Effortless.
Could you describe the process of a fashion-show casting a little bit?
I start by seeing all the new faces at the pre-casting. They come in, have their polaroid taken, do the walk and leave. This takes about 2 minutes per girl. Then I make my wish list board. I place all the girls' cards on the board who I could/would like to see in the show. Then I request options for each of the girls on my board. Once you get all of them in place u start confirming, scheduling the fittings and calling them in for the show. Done. It's a little bit like completing a puzzle.
There’ve been quite a few changes regarding the model-cast this season. Do you think this is just the beginning of something really “drastic” – how do you think the industry will look like in 5 years?
In the past 2 decades we saw the Supermodels, followed by a stint of heroin chic, followed by a stampede of sexy Brazilians, then a wave of tall, skinny Russians, and now we are once again seeing more curves and shape with front runners Lara Stone and Doutzen Kroes. It’s a process of action-reaction. We like big now, in a couple of years we will skinny again. The process never fails. My university thesis is a more elaborate (400 page) dissertation about just this.
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Boss Orange Spring2010
How much of the casting process is the client’s vision and how much involves your personal preferences?
It is ALWAYS the client's vision. The casting agent has provided the client with the right faces to REPRESENT his vision. If I get carte blanche, I will always keep the client's image or concept in check. Often I veto girls when I think they are not right, or push girls when I think they will elevate the show.
It seems like more people are talking about diversity of models from skinny to plus sized and from Caucasian, to black and Asian girls on the runways. What are your thoughts concerning this matter?
Same thing. People evolve. Tastes evolve. They are called trends and are constantly moving. That is why fashion is called fickle and superficial. We don't dwell too long on the same subject. Like Heidi Klum says in project runway: "In fashion, one day you're in, the next day you're out." (haha!)
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VPL Fashionshow Fall2010
You have to cast a girl for a fresh, summery editorial shoot. Floral prints, airy fabrics and very minimal make-up. How does she look like?
I am thinking of a blonde with long, wavy hair. Maybe blue eyes. And a nice smile.
There are always the so-called “one season wonders” – models who do very well and book all the right shows, maybe even land some blue-chip campaigns and editorials but then, they fade as quickly as they came. Do you think the reason for this is up to the girls themselves, a matter of management (therefore – agency related) or do clients get fed up with a model so easily these days?
There are certain gems that emerge every season. The ones that truly possess all the right qualities to survive model trends, with or without great management. A great model really has the right face, body, proportions, walk and personality and there are only very few girls that have all the elements in place. I don't think it's necessarily the clients who get fed up with the same faces, but if you have a little bit of an eye you can easily tell who are the true wonders; the rest are fillers.
How is it that we see your casts quite often related to Paola Kudacki’s work? Pure coincidence or is there a collaboration?
Paola and I are close friends. We discussed the idea of working together about 2 years ago when she started to do a lot more editorial and needed help with casting. It's great to work with friends, and to work with someone as talented and busy as Paola. I understand her vision and her career direction so we are sort of growing together.
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Mariacarla in i-D Spring2010 & Kendra Spears in Vogue Nippon - both shot by Paola Kudacki
In the end: Could you give us a little update on the projects you’re currently working on?
I am working on a few editorials and I have 2 campaigns holding. One is a German catalog with kids - I love kids castings! End of April is when it will get really busy. Right now I am focusing on my side projects. I am launching a blog on Monday, dedicated to my love for vintage, travel, music and casting: talesofendearment.blogspot.com And I am going to Coachella to report on the festival for The Last Magazine (I am a contributing editor at the magazine) and do thrift shopping for my blog. I also have a book in the works but that will not be for another couple of years.
Thank you very much for doing this with us, Natalie! Much appreciated.