Nicolas Ghesquière - Designer, Creative Director of Louis Vuitton

[Alquimista]

Some of these looks really fall into the „very unflattering / rather contrived“ category to me - Particularly the long grey 80ies jacket with matching hat and ankle boots look. Yikes.

That's one look. I'm saying that the majority of his clothes look better now. The red carpet dresses look better.

I simply find preposterous any theory of ghost design or radical shift. His late work for Balenciaga was full on sci fi. And even at LV, he does different styles, the latest collection was more classic than sci fi but the shapes are still difficult. He's in a big brand doing daring clothes for the woman who cares. What I feel is that he should open up a bit, refine more, maybe make the pre collections a refined version of the rtw. But overral I like the "not for everybody" atitude of his work because he was always this way. The women who likes it will follow his proposition.

 

[Lola701]

Hedi DH has nothing to do with SLP or Celine. Hedi hasn't done a skinny jean like DH in 20 years…

We didn’t watched the same collections then. Hedi has never abandoned his skinny silhouette even though he did more than that.
Much like at Dior Homme, he didn’t do just Skinny. Much like at YSL (first tenure), he didn’t do just skinny pants.

And the Hedi silhouette is not just pants. It’s also about the way he cut his blazers. Shorter than usual, with arm holes very high and things like that or skinny lapels.

We refer to Hedi’s work as a skinny silhouette because it’s precisely that. He reframed the silhouette in menswear, even when he did big shoulders.

But the rock sensibility in his work is something that came over time. His inclinaison to vintage too. Hedi’s work looks less « modern » than what he did in the late 90’s and early 00’s. It was intentionally modern. Now it has become timeless because he added touches of vintage and his work has more and more had a very « wardrobe » orientation.

But when someone looks at the work of Hedi, it’s clear that he is past experimenting. The same thing with Armani and others.