Thank you! First for responding, you didn't really have to. Second for always generously sharing your thoughts, I always appreciate it.
I was hoping though for a look by look critique or what you make of his references, as you did for the Chanel show. The 2 lines you wrote about Blazy's "primitive couture" I found informative, helped me clarify my thoughts a tad more.
When you say "deal with the reality of today" which/whose reality are you referring to specifically? Isn't a designer's job to realize his own personal vision? For all I know 1 of his great sources of inspiration has been his obsession with architecture, and from that vantage point I do see some tiny breakthroughs. It did help my cause that at the time I just finished a book called Espèces d'espaces by Georges Perec which touches on the rare ambient quality certain great buildings give
, so I was charmed by this collection's very romantic notion of architecture and space. Space between the chin and collar bones, outerspace, space between parts of the body, inner space....... In motion they move with great fluidity and dare I say, beauty, which another member at the time the show aired also pointed out.
You mention the stiff collars, I found them to be one of the finer points. How they almost extend beneath that fuzzy hotel robe also with stiff manchettes paired with the pearl earrings and relaxed hair (on Hoyeon) I think was a very refined upscale version of the casually glamorous hotel-hopper. Afloat but alert. Or this look:
This double triangled vest with straps in motion, up close, is a quiet gem. Reminds me of the ceiling from the inside the cabbage dome at the secession.
Or a couple other looks, in profile... They make 10x more sense than the pictures suggest.
My point is, while being experimental in silhouette they have charm and ease, sth more junior leveled designers with a 2D execution will not have. His old collections were beloved, we can all agree, but I don't remember him having this quality before. They used to be more awkward when he played around with volumes, more clunky.
I also think at the end of the day it comes down to who you're trying to appeal to. I doubt it's Tim Blanks.
Anyway just wanna share with you my thoughts too so it's a dialogue not a monologue.