Nina Ricci F/W 09.10 Paris

[dumbfairy]

olivier is pretty

Hands off,he's mine

I kind of agree with Pastry with regards to this being (almost) pre-Rochas Theyskens,in so far as this has a lot more of his stamp on it than Nina Riccis. I still really like it, and, should this,or the next, be his last Nina Ricci show,would love for him to do collections under his own label

 

[mackos]

I need to see the whole collection asap. Today has been a total nightmare. First Balenciaga, now Ricci! Ok, so I've not been thrilled with the past few Ricci collections anyway, but this is...unsettling to say the least.

I just don't understand what has gotten into Theyskens. Not that he should have to create dainty, elegant clothes every season, but this posseses none of the poetry, romance or beauty of a Theyskens collection. These shoes alone are enough to make me believe that this collection is a big "f*ck you" to the Nina Ricci bosses for ousting him (if he is indeed ousted, which I hope he is...Nina Ricci + Theyskens is no longer a healthy relationship).

Gosh, couldn´t agree more, actually!

 

[Mr-Dale]

Hmm...this collection is turning out to be an extremely perplexing one. In the course of a day, I've become so confused about this show!

I don't mean that I'm warming up to this collection...I still dislike most looks, and I'm disappointed that Theyskens joined the 80's craze this season, but I'm feeling a growing sense of intrigue. I'm also wondering how much of an impact those hideous shoes are making on my impression of the collection.

I'm going to need a few more days, at least, to figure out what this all means.

Oh honey, I am giving you a week and you'll be revving about this

Seriously though, I expected a lot of people who do not like this to be completely crazy about this. Plus, Hilary Alexander called it one of his best, Sarah Mower is excited...I am still waiting for Suzy Menkes and Cathy Horyn.

I wonder if this collection would have been by someone else that reactions would have been different. Basically because so many people are saying that it doesn't feel like Theyskens. But I really think it does feel like him. It's a whimsical fantasy, a vision come alive...but this time, it's a raunchy, powerful, sleek, mysterious and somewhat perverted vision. We all would have been up in the air about those shoes in times where it wasn't rare to see high end concepts like these on the runway more often. That just doesn't happen anymore. And to see it here is least expected. Besides, we all know those heels won't go up for sale, wo why not look at them and enjoy the view for what it is?
And there are such amazing pieces floating around in this collection. Micro dresses that Decarnin can only dream of doing, that stunningly sharp tailored suit on Olga, assymetrical button up coats like the one on Yulia with that splash of fur...and I cannot stop talking about the look on Anabela....the silhouette that comes alive on her body with that supertight bodysuit, the extreme shoes and (as Sarah Mower said) the best leather jacket we've seen all season is just awe-inspiring to me. I really hope to God that there will be more shockingly inspiring collection like this in Paris this week...man, i really am excited about this and it's been a long time since I was actually looking at and talking about a collection actually looking like this >>

[/soapbox]

 

[bittercain]

those shoes are MONSTERS, DEVILS
what a messy tangle collection with such a obviously painful creation

 

[yujie]

I actually love the last few looks, and that one jacket with that over-extended collar.

It really struck a deep chord in me, and I think that if one just takes this collection with no preconceptions of what his style is like, then it is astounding.

He is for sure one of my favorite designers right now

 

[helmut.newton]

Once it was mentioned that his inspiration was something along the lines of 'nocturnal', everything finally made sense. Once I started to think about lighting, the darkness of the night, the way shadows change the proportions of shapes, the way light makes things shine, the way it conceals and obscures things, the way architecture changes form under subdued lighting conditions etc etc - it put this entire collection into perspective!

However, whilst some of the ideas of nocturnal romanticism were beautiful; I have to say that the general execution is extremely poor. I don't know if it's the threat of being fired or something else, but this collection seemed like it was put together very erratically. It jumps from one idea to another very violently, no?

That is one of my problems with this collection. It lacks the precision of Theyskens' previous work. There is a unity, but not like in his other collections. Here you have one black suit, then one red dress, then a orange vest then something else etc etc Which brings me to my other issue with this. The colour palette. I found it extremely confusing. I think he was trying to show the interplay between complete blackness and like neon lights, street lamps, and other artificial light sources. But in the end, for me, it looked a bit kitsch.

Overall I think the ideas behind this collection are genius and very DNA Olivier. Some of the pieces were absolutely phenomenal. But some of the pieces were also utterly repulsive.

This was a good collection for Theyskens, but a poor collection for the House of Nina Ricci. I see ZERO Ricci influence. Is it a good thing? I don't know. But it is certainly manifest of his attitude towards those profit-driven CEO robots!!

 

[plasticky]

anyone could post the HQ's??!

Please,

xx

 

[liberty33r1b]

how can anyone walk in those shoes is totally beyond me.....they're a nightmare

 

[hedikid]

Olivier is genius, i love the oversize shoulder

 

[columbine]

This collection is insanely awesome. I love the evening gowns and the sheer pieces. & the shoes, the shoes are amazing

 

[hautechild]

I love the ridiculous, dramitic shoes!

 

[The_Ida]

This is a pleasant surprise

 

[Josephjang]

The platforms without heels from this collection,,,,,,,are exactly the same as the ones I designed for my project. Now I have to design my shoes again! After designing the heel-less platforms, I thought, this is really exciting and dangerously fierce!. Now I have to come up with another exciting dangerously fierce shoes.
Damn you Olivier!!!

P.S. The shoes are not very sophisticated but I think it is very exciting(since there seems to be general dislike towards the shoes, I felt the need to defend my and as well as Olivier's design) and can anyone post the HQ photos of this show?

 

[Karolina.]

Love most of the pieces!
But those shoes.....
poor girls

 

[ForChicSake]

loved this especially the taliored jackets/blazers

 

[vogue28]

OMG!
The shoes?

 

[vetements]

i think this is without doubt one of this best shows for nina ricci. i do not like his debut there so much upon his graduation from rochas, but this feels like he has brought himself to another level, i think one word came to mind the moment i saw it: luxe.
the worksmanship of the clothes are amazing, so is the way it is being executed, everthing is perfect, from the clothes to the hair, makeup, models, lighting, set. i cant fault this at all.
maybe only grouse are that the shoes arent exactly practical. but who needs practicality in fashion? i think the shoes completes the excellent showmanship.
kudos to theyskens. this show is indeed an affirmation of his arrival alas.

 

[Scott]

oooh it's very grace jones....

and if he is indeed leaving,why should anyone be sad? this would mean olivier will finally be back at his own realm. he won't have to deal with these conflicts of design interest so he'll have much more freedom.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Oh honey, I am giving you a week and you'll be revving about this

We'll see!

 

[dior_couture1245]

Here's another little video on the show-