There was a Mod sixties flavor to the black-and-white looks that opened Oscar de la Renta’s rich and eclectic show. Those graphic patchworks of variously scaled two-tone checks later exploded into a bedazzlement of vibrant color and print—and the beautiful appliqués and embroideries with an artisanal, handcrafted flavor that are such a signature of this house.
This was a pragmatic collection for Oscar’s ladies, with an emphasis on coat or cardigan over dress or pant dressing that mixed things up in a fresh and modern way—including a sand-beige sequin tracksuit top that took the sportif evening look to a new level of insouciant luxury. There were elegant sheath dresses and pencil skirts, but the Oscar exuberance was most keenly felt in the swirling full skirts in crushed Fortuny pleat silks, both for dressy day or glamorous evening.
But if hippie luxe is not your thing, there was more than a hint of the silver screen in a brace of molten platinum lamé and satin evening gowns—and of Rita Hayworth’s 1946 Gilda in a sensational strapless dress of liquid black slipper satin.