Patrik Rzepski Nyc's Only Real Star?

[softgrey]

Originally posted by chickonspeed+May 19th, 2004 - 9:50 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(chickonspeed @ May 19th, 2004 - 9:50 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-smashinfashion@May 19th, 2004 - 6:45 pm
wasnt that red dress in spring 04 #13 in nylon a couple issues ago? he buried it in his backyard to make it look stained and stuff? the collection was based on a murderer in england, right?

Hmm. . . I didn't know he did that. Not very original, if you ask me. Hussein Chalayan did that a few seasons ago and tried to pass it off as a genuine idea but the Japanese have been doing that stuff since the 90's. [/b][/quote]
just to add...carpe diem's whole aesthetic is based on distressing and burying clothes...so it's definitely not original...

and while the clothes may be cute...they are awfully juvenile...hard for a grown woman to wear without looking foolish and that's who can usually afford these clothes...so it's tricky...barney's seems to have invested heavily in lanvin this season...a collection that pretty much looks amazing on everyone...whatever their age or body type...which translates into bigger sales...
and a safer bet...

maybe of he can hold on he'll be picked up when things turn around a bit...i can see kirna zabete carrying it...they take risks...

 

[purplelucrezia]

Originally posted by softgrey@May 20th, 2004 - 9:12 am
and while the clothes may be cute...they are awfully juvenile...hard for a grown woman to wear without looking foolish and that's who can usually afford these clothes...

I do know that Maggie Gyllenhaal wears them, as would I.

 

[purplelucrezia]

Originally posted by softgrey+May 20th, 2004 - 9:12 am--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(softgrey @ May 20th, 2004 - 9:12 am)</div><div class='quotemain'>

Originally posted by chickonspeed@May 19th, 2004 - 9:50 pm
<!--QuoteBegin-smashinfashion

@May 19th, 2004 - 6:45 pm
wasnt that red dress in spring 04 #13 in nylon a couple issues ago? he buried it in his backyard to make it look stained and stuff? the collection was based on a murderer in england, right?

Hmm. . . I didn't know he did that. Not very original, if you ask me. Hussein Chalayan did that a few seasons ago and tried to pass it off as a genuine idea but the Japanese have been doing that stuff since the 90's.

just to add...carpe diem's whole aesthetic is based on distressing and burying clothes...so it's definitely not original...

and while the clothes may be cute...they are awfully juvenile...hard for a grown woman to wear without looking foolish and that's who can usually afford these clothes...so it's tricky...barney's seems to have invested heavily in lanvin this season...a collection that pretty much looks amazing on everyone...whatever their age or body type...which translates into bigger sales...
and a safer bet...

maybe of he can hold on he'll be picked up when things turn around a bit...i can see kirna zabete carrying it...they take risks... [/b][/quote]
I think this is the dress you're thinking of?

Also, here's a bit on him from firstview.com...
"Twenty - year old fashion school dropout Patrik Rzepski, an east village modern day recluse, has already been designing for 2 years under his own label (and hands). After successfully escaping the Branch Dividians of Waco Texas as a child, Patrik set out to exploit the primal fear and passion laying dormant in society. His ideology led to the creation of a modern rough silhouette through the re-structuring of iconographic pieces treated with various forms of abuse such as sanding, silk-screening, bleaching, airbrushing, dyeing and burniing. In one of his rare interviews with Entertainment tonigh's Mary Hart he was quoted as saying " apres moi le deluge."

 

[metal-on-metal]

Originally posted by purplelucrezia@May 20th, 2004 - 11:20 am
"Twenty - year old fashion school dropout Patrik Rzepski, an east village modern day recluse, has already been designing for 2 years under his own label (and hands). After successfully escaping the Branch Dividians of Waco Texas as a child, Patrik set out to exploit the primal fear and passion laying dormant in society. His ideology led to the creation of a modern rough silhouette through the re-structuring of iconographic pieces treated with various forms of abuse such as sanding, silk-screening, bleaching, airbrushing, dyeing and burniing. In one of his rare interviews with Entertainment tonigh's Mary Hart he was quoted as saying "apres moi le deluge."

 

[abhorarmani]

hi themes are very dark, in the nylon mag article about him it says that pink dress was buried to mimic a victim... it might be dark ideas but the design doesnt seem heavy or goth.

 

[purplelucrezia]

Originally posted by abhorarmani@May 20th, 2004 - 11:49 am
it might be dark ideas but the design doesnt seem heavy or goth.

Exactly, that's why I'm surprised that his collection isn't more well-known. I think that this outfit perfectly expresses his translation of darker themes into wearable pieces...

 

[abhorarmani]

totally and he gets cool models to do his shows

 

[purplelucrezia]

Originally posted by abhorarmani@May 20th, 2004 - 12:06 pm
totally and he gets cool models to do his shows

Ciara Nugent!!!
http://home.iprimus.com.au/ryou/patrik.html

 

[purplelucrezia]

And just look at how pretty this dress is...

(Sorry, not really on topic, but I had to post it!)

 

[purplelucrezia]

More on that murderess-inspired thing:
http://www.dailytargum.com/news/2003/11/21...dy-564934.shtml
Although, I'm getting the impression that it might be a bit of a show. Just to make his work seem slightly more "edgy."

"In the Patrik Rzepski Spring 2004 collection titled "We Miss you Myra," Rzepski has done a number on the psyche of his beholders. The collection features pieces inspired by recently deceased British murderer Myra Hindley. The notorious Hindley and boyfriend Ian Brady, called the "moors murderers," were found to have buried some of their victims at Britain's Saddleworth Moor in the early 1960s.

Rzepski has taken this jarring stain on human history with a grain of salt. A noose doubles as a handbag strap in the current collection, and a garment is riddled with the words "I want Moor Myra." Materials have been burned, torn, bleached and even buried to achieve Rzepski's desired look. A strapless fuchsia dress had to be remade when it disintegrated completely after being buried for a week in the backyard of Mr. and Mrs. Rzepski - Patrik's parents."

 

[softgrey]

quote-Rzepski says. "People are so worried about sales and the commercial craze. I don't have to. I focus on making some real clothes."


right...dirty stained and burned clothes=real clothes....

you only have to worry about sales and commerciality if you actually want to have a legitimate business ...

i respect his work...but there are many issues with the marketability and production of his pieces...i'm not wearing that dirty rag...(red dress)...and neither is anyone else..that's more like an art piece to be hung in a gallery or museum...and maybe that's what he should be focusing on rather than the fashion industry...just seems more appropriate...unless he can channel that creativity in a more practical and wearable way...

thanks for the article and pics purple...

 

[Scott]

I don't think I agree with that. I mean,there is always customers who can indentify with a designer's work. I don't care if one's 20 or if they're 50....they are out there. And I can see a sophisticated lady in her prime wearing something such as that white pleated dress. And if realism is a concern,I think what he's doing has a certain air of realism and awareness....I mean you look around everybody is going crazy for vintage...even vintage that's imperfect. In fact,that's what his work reminds me of...all the imperfections that play havoc on a garment through the years can be so special. What's more,with so much flatness becoming dominate in the industry,I think alot of people are actually searching for something with a little life in it. Even if its in the shape of something tattered.

 

[purplelucrezia]

I would have to agree with you Scott. Although the market can't be all that large for tattered dresses, there will always be individuals out there who are interested in buying them. It really shouldn't matter whether you're making amazing sales as long as a. you're making clothing that you like, and that b. that someone else hopefully gets pleasure out of as well. Also, he's an independant New York designer, not holding down all of Dolce&Gabbana. On a more personal note, I know that I would certainly be among his clients if I could. I think that the tattering actually adds character to the dress and does give it a bit of a vintage-y feel. I like pieces that feel that as if they have, if not a history, at least some thought and perhaps even a story behind them. Not all fashion has to be squeaky clean and mass-produced in my opinion.
Also, you're very welcome softgrey.

 

[rayncloudx]

well said

and now, looking at his fall line, i want the valeria dress. so cute

 

[Spacemiu]

Originally posted by Scott@May 20th, 2004 - 3:29 pm
I don't think I agree with that. I mean,there is always customers who can indentify with a designer's work. I don't care if one's 20 or if they're 50....they are out there. And I can see a sophisticated lady in her prime wearing something such as that white pleated dress. And if realism is a concern,I think what he's doing has a certain air of realism and awareness....I mean you look around everybody is going crazy for vintage...even vintage that's imperfect. In fact,that's what his work reminds me of...all the imperfections that play havoc on a garment through the years can be so special. What's more,with so much flatness becoming dominate in the industry,I think alot of people are actually searching for something with a little life in it. Even if its in the shape of something tattered.

i woudl also agree with this comment

 

[Scott]

Originally posted by purplelucrezia@May 20th, 2004 - 5:01 pm
I would have to agree with you Scott. Although the market can't be all that large for tattered dresses, there will always be individuals out there who are interested in buying them. It really shouldn't matter whether you're making amazing sales as long as a. you're making clothing that you like, and that b. that someone else hopefully gets pleasure out of as well. Also, he's an independant New York designer, not holding down all of Dolce&Gabbana. On a more personal note, I know that I would certainly be among his clients if I could. I think that the tattering actually adds character to the dress and does give it a bit of a vintage-y feel. I like pieces that feel that as if they have, if not a history, at least some thought and perhaps even a story behind them. Not all fashion has to be squeaky clean and mass-produced in my opinion.
Also, you're very welcome softgrey.

You know Purple,that dress looks as if it has faded rose petals attached to it. Its really quite romantic! Even in all his macabre visions,the clothes really end up that way.

 

[purplelucrezia]

Originally posted by Scott+May 20th, 2004 - 8:58 pm--><div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(Scott @ May 20th, 2004 - 8:58 pm)</div><div class='quotemain'> <!--QuoteBegin-purplelucrezia@May 20th, 2004 - 5:01 pm
I would have to agree with you Scott. Although the market can't be all that large for tattered dresses, there will always be individuals out there who are interested in buying them. It really shouldn't matter whether you're making amazing sales as long as a. you're making clothing that you like, and that b. that someone else hopefully gets pleasure out of as well. Also, he's an independant New York designer, not holding down all of Dolce&Gabbana. On a more personal note, I know that I would certainly be among his clients if I could. I think that the tattering actually adds character to the dress and does give it a bit of a vintage-y feel. I like pieces that feel that as if they have, if not a history, at least some thought and perhaps even a story behind them. Not all fashion has to be squeaky clean and mass-produced in my opinion.
Also, you're very welcome softgrey.

You know Purple,that dress looks as if it has faded rose petals attached to it. Its really quite romantic! Even in all his macabre visions,the clothes really end up that way. [/b][/quote]
Yes, it actually reminds me a bit of Rochas sometimes. I'm sure he would hate that... My perception is that he perhaps tries a bit too hard to seem "dark" sometimes. Honestly, his clothing is really quite pretty.

 

[softgrey]

while that is all very sweet and romantic...it's just not practical...i'm not criticising his work...but if it's not sold anywhere...then what have you got?...it just isn't that simple...you can't just make what you like...that's art...not fashion...

what about the quote from coco chanel..."fashion that does not reach the streets is not fashion."

i did a fashion story called "post-apocolyptic joan of arc"...it was very dark....i burned and ripped and tea stained the clothes...rubbed them with coffee grinds and grass stains and black paint...tore up a white shirt and tied the rags in the girl's hair...i used gators...vintage ones from world war two over her shoes...the clothes and the pictures were amazing...my favorite story ever...

and guess what?!?!...it never got published...everyone i showed it to loved it but said it was too dark...

all i'm saying is that the market for this kind of stuff is miniscule...as much as i love it...from a practical point of view...one has to make a living...one has to pay rent and eat...so the product must sell to a certain extent and for the most part the market for this stuff is other struggling creative types or kids who can't afford them...

ps...this stuff isn't exactly original...why not just pop into a thrift store and pick it up for a fraction of the price...if you like...you can even bury it in your own backyard for awhile and call it art...

 

[Spacemiu]

Originally posted by softgrey@May 21st, 2004 - 8:37 am
while that is all very sweet and romantic...it's just not practical...i'm not criticising his work...but if it's not sold anywhere...then what have you got?...it just isn't that simple...you can't just make what you like...that's art...not fashion...

oh i'm sorry i didn't know i wasn't aloud to make things I like becuas people won't buy them

ever heard of a little thing called integrity

 

[Scott]

Originally posted by softgrey@May 21st, 2004 - 9:37 am
while that is all very sweet and romantic...it's just not practical...i'm not criticising his work...but if it's not sold anywhere...then what have you got?...it just isn't that simple...you can't just make what you like...that's art...not fashion...

what about the quote from coco chanel..."fashion that does not reach the streets is not fashion."

i did a fashion story called "post-apocolyptic joan of arc"...it was very dark....i burned and ripped and tea stained the clothes...rubbed them with coffee grinds and grass stains and black paint...tore up a white shirt and tied the rags in the girl's hair...i used gators...vintage ones from world war two over her shoes...the clothes and the pictures were amazing...my favorite story ever...

and guess what?!?!...it never got published...everyone i showed it to loved it but said it was too dark...

all i'm saying is that the market for this kind of stuff is miniscule...as much as i love it...from a practical point of view...one has to make a living...one has to pay rent and eat...so the product must sell to a certain extent and for the most part the market for this stuff is other struggling creative types or kids who can't afford them...

ps...this stuff isn't exactly original...why not just pop into a thrift store and pick it up for a fraction of the price...if you like...you can even bury it in your own backyard for awhile and call it art...

Softgrey,while I understand what you're saying,designing purely to 'sell' seems like giving into the pressures of the market. There are loads of designers out there very well capable of the creative and the commercial aspects. Not just the one. And selling pretty well,I assume too. Remember you're a fan of Jurgi and the rest of the Belgians--they're extremely experimental!
In that same respect,Patrik has alot of wearable things in there besides just that one quirky dress.

And as for the quote,don't you think that the majority of things experimental end up in the streets? You live in NY and you've just returned from London and you don't see that??