Paul Harnden Shoemaker and more...

[softgrey]

so charming...

 

[runner]

F/ W 12


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[runner]

from nouer


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[softgrey]

thanks for those pics runner...!

well well...
they did such a nice job in those pics of making the clothes look extremely wearable and less like a costume...

i was just looking at some stuff in the shops and thinking how amazingly well they are made and how i don't think i would ever be wearing any of it...
maybe that isn't true, though...


i like the jackets and the tops...
i never really get tired of a good henley...

 

[taupe]

I known / seen and own along with my girlfriend many pieces of harnden.
But well made is not exactly a way of describing his work i would say.

It certainly is made with a different approach to anyone else which contributes to the whole look and feel of the garments. But the seam/stitch work is very poor, buttons often come off, button holes are opened in a very rough way, there are far greater quality shoes out there. However i feel all these issues he chooses to reject or ignore.

The first coat and the second mac are beautiful (the 2nd mac i think is new, something i haven't seen before) the rest is very similar to previous collections/buys ; he never changes (nor should he).

On a different note, to make Harnden wearable the easiest way is with denim, his fabrics seem to work with the weight of denim.

 

[softgrey]

^^we seem to define 'well made' differently...

a roughly opened button hole and an imperfect seem would go perfectly with the aesthetic of the garments so i don't see how that is an issue...
and i think the days of buttons that never fall off are LONG gone...
sad, but true and i've just come to accept that...

in my opinion, the roughness of the pieces as a whole is essential to the charm of the garments...

adding denim does seem to be the easiest way to wear anything...
but denim doesn't really interest me...thanks...

 

[fenrost]

a ph mens shirt in print i got from aw 12-13 collection.

material : durham

 

[softgrey]

a ph mens shirt in print i got from aw 12-13 collection.


material : durham

beautiful...beautiful...beautiful...
thank you for sharing...

a print...what a surprise...!
and such a beautiful one...

amazing detail shots...
thx fenrost...

 

[runner]

from the latest issue cover of the magazine targeted at the fifties


kobunsha.com

 

[softgrey]

woah!...well that's a very different way of styling the pieces...
...

it looks quite good, actually...
if you're into that sort of look...

thanks runner!

 

[runner]

you're welcome softgrey
there you see how they in japan are omnivorous.

as for the PH piece and its balance/proportion/sizing/fit, looks like it is getting closer to altieri's shirt jkt, which means it is getting easier to wear.


my scan of the newspaper advertisement

 

[runner]

images from DSM


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[softgrey]

^^are those inspiration images runner?
the first image is so bleak...
funny how such human hardship can be romanticized from afar...


there is a guy i follow on instagram who seems to wear nothing but PH...
he really wears it like he was born to wear it...

if anyone is interested, his feed is called- noblessobligeitaly

 

[runner]

those are images you'd see at the trunk show, store installation, etc, by paul harnden & stuart pitkin.

 

[softgrey]

i see...
thanks runner...

 

[runner]

you're welcome softgrey



particles of paul harnden

ink-dyed shoes
shoe dusted with washing powder
swatch pennant flags used at the showroom/installation
and PH natural history


nouer
colette

 

[runner]

his residence-cum-atelier in brighton
he bought the three-story deserted/haunted house no one had touched for a long time, and renovated it himself.

DIY staircase
the easel of his son
his pedersen
etc


my scans

 

[runner]

baycrews

 

[softgrey]

^^i really enjoy those images above...
the mime with the shoes off is cool and funny...


thanks for the scans runner...
interesting to get a glimpse into the private life of a designer who exists today but seems to live in another time through his work...

i like that he seems to have done the work on his place himself...
makes sense that he would want to do it himself since all his work seems to show the hand of the creator...

the shoes are lovely---
top and bottom...

thanks again, runner!

 

[runner]

you are welcome softgrey
there is a hut in a forest he built himself. I will scan the pic of it later.



remembrance of the unexperienced

image from dover street market