Peter Hawkings - Designer

[Lola701]

Hedi? I could see the appeal and it might work for him and he might help with the fragrance but he hates Tom. He left YSL because of Tom. Can they even afford one of (if not the) most expensive designer on the planet?

I mean we aren’t in 2000 no more if I recall.
Anyway I don’t think he hate Tom. I would say that they are even cordial, even friendly as Richard Buckley was very fond of Hedi. Hence why Tom years ago did that Ice Buckey challenge and nominated Hedi (of course Hedi never did the challenge and I think Tom didn’t expect him to).
And in Los Angeles they have a lot of common friends actually like Lisa Eisner and others…

I know that Hedi would do insane numbers at TF and they're both very commercial in their approach, but they exist on completely different ends of the aesthtical spectrum. Ford is very "Rive Driote" (glamour, sex, opulence), while Slimane is very "Rive Gauche" (coolness, rebellion, youth).

Hedi at Tom Ford would be a disaster nobody wants to see happen. Thank god it’s never going to happen.

But your point is quite interesting…I never saw it that way actually. I think the romantic idea of Rive Gauche/ Rive Droite is interesting (as it’s not really relevant nowadays).

It’s funny because for me, Hedi is very Rive Droite because the spirit of Rive Gauche doesn’t exist anymore.

Hedi is very Paris/LA when Tom Ford is actually quite Milan/NYC. However at their prime, both at Gucci for Tom and DH for Hedi, they were both very Rive Gauche.

Hedi’s Celine is so 16eme arrondissement (which has absorbed so much of the Rive Gauche aesthetic over the decades) that it hurts. But if it has to be Rive Gauche, Hedi would be the 7th arrondissement.

But ultimately, I think they are quite opposite. Tom is Classic American fashion infused with French Couture when Hedi is very French Fashion (both Couture and archetypes) infused with American archetypes.

Btw I was told that Hedi recently moved back to Paris…

 

[brandon J pierre]

Hedi? I could see the appeal and it might work for him and he might help with the fragrance but he hates Tom. He left YSL because of Tom. Can they even afford one of (if not the) most expensive designer on the planet?

Anybody know how much he makes a year?

 

[brandon J pierre]

I’m with you in that. I guess that’s why it’ll work more for Hedi and not more for Tom. Since when did an antithesis stopped him? Look at Celine, on paper it shouldn’t work but it did. It’ll provide him another blank slate, while by just adding a bit of sex and lushness to his work he can claim heritage. At the end of the day we know the numbers would be good. TF parfums could really use him.

That said though it’s much improbable and personally I don’t want to see it. Hedi no matter how scantily clad rarely exuded sex at womenswear. His men meanwhile no matter how layered, lean and feminine always had sex appeal. His boys can wear skirt and still be nothing but straight.

😂😂😂😂 I guess you like your straight man feminine I just see Queens baby

 

[Lola701]

Anybody know how much he makes a year?

Hedi, much like Nicolas may command 10M a year + all the extras.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Hedi, much like Nicolas may command 10M a year + all the extras.

I remember hearing that Tom Ford at Gucci made about 3 million a year and that was shocking back then. That's some real good money though I'm proud of their success. Actually they should be making more

 

[fenty]

The only valid answer of who should go to Tom Ford is Alexandre Vauthier !

 

[Lola701]

I remember hearing that Tom Ford at Gucci made about 3 million a year and that was shocking back then. That's some real good money though I'm proud of their success. Actually they should be making more

He probably made more than that by the time Gucci was bought by PPR (Kering) as ultimately, he owned stocks of Gucci following the acquisition. The same for Nicolas who owned 10% of Balenciaga.

Ultimately, Tom went on to create his own brand but Nicolas, had already some room in terms of negociations for Vuitton as at Balenciaga, he wasn’t your average « designer on a contract ».

In those types of positions, the extras (all types of expenses and allowances) are as important really. And of course, when you renew the contract, it’s jackpot.

 

[brandon J pierre]

He probably made more than that by the time Gucci was bought by PPR (Kering) as ultimately, he owned stocks of Gucci following the acquisition. The same for Nicolas who owned 10% of Balenciaga.

Ultimately, Tom went on to create his own brand but Nicolas, had already some room in terms of negociations for Vuitton as at Balenciaga, he wasn’t your average « designer on a contract ».

In those types of positions, the extras (all types of expenses and allowances) are as important really. And of course, when you renew the contract, it’s jackpot.

What a dream ! Fabric seamstresses assistance cocktail mansions models amazing. I wonder what Maria gets she must be loaded by now.

 

[Kimihiro]

What a dream ! Fabric seamstresses assistance cocktail mansions models amazing. I wonder what Maria gets she must be loaded by now.

Safe to assume Nicolas, Hedi and MGC are the ones raking it?

True though, the extras might be worth more than the salary. I imagine those campaigns and STORE AND FURNITURE DESIGNED BY HEDI SLIMANE cost separately too. Tom’s office table coke buffet or Galliano’s bodyguards might seem tame to what they get now. Are planes on the table?

But same, I wonder what MGC’s fix is.

 

[tourbillions]

But same, I wonder what MGC’s fix is.

probably a monthly visit to the convent for inspiration

 

[brandon J pierre]

Safe to assume Nicolas, Hedi and MGC are the ones raking it?

True though, the extras might be worth more than the salary. I imagine those campaigns and STORE AND FURNITURE DESIGNED BY HEDI SLIMANE cost separately too. Tom’s office table coke buffet or Galliano’s bodyguards might seem tame to what they get now. Are planes on the table?

But same, I wonder what MGC’s fix is.

Tom's what? 😂 I bet galliano not getting s*** now after that little outburst that's why he's trying to work his way back up. Fashion in the industries so interesting there's nothing like it.

 

[tatouejeremie]

Safe to assume Nicolas, Hedi and MGC are the ones raking it?

True though, the extras might be worth more than the salary. I imagine those campaigns and STORE AND FURNITURE DESIGNED BY HEDI SLIMANE cost separately too. Tom’s office table coke buffet or Galliano’s bodyguards might seem tame to what they get now. Are planes on the table?

But same, I wonder what MGC’s fix is.

don't forget raf

i've always wondered how the salaries of the CEOs compare to the creative directors'

 

[Kimihiro]

don't forget raf

i've always wondered how the salaries of the CEOs compare to the creative directors'

Oh yes Raf, but that might’ve took a beating after the Calvin Klein clusterf**k. If he renewed though it would’ve been hefty.

Tom's what? 😂 I bet galliano not getting s*** now after that little outburst that's why he's trying to work his way back up. Fashion in the industries so interesting there's nothing like it.

I said what I said. He talked about it. 😭

Yeah maybe no shenanigans for John but that Atelier must be a big expense. Some said they have no clients.

 

[Kimihiro]

probably a monthly visit to the convent for inspiration

If I may venture, a monthly Greece trip?

 

[Lola701]

What a dream ! Fabric seamstresses assistance cocktail mansions models amazing. I wonder what Maria gets she must be loaded by now.

Those aren’t really extras lol. What the brand provides in terms of budgets for you in order to do your job at your standards has nothing to do with what a designer negotiate for himself.
You can negotiate to have the company the rent of your place if for example you are based in another city and have to relocate for your functions, you can negotiate for you immediate « staff » (that’s what Galliano did for example for Steven but Amanda was left out). You can negotiate clothing allowance budget. That’s something that Karl initiated. You can, that way shower editors or friends or whoever with gifts and shopping sprees. As long as it work related, it’s almost up to the person imagination and the company appreciation.

Safe to assume Nicolas, Hedi and MGC are the ones raking it?

True though, the extras might be worth more than the salary. I imagine those campaigns and STORE AND FURNITURE DESIGNED BY HEDI SLIMANE cost separately too. Tom’s office table coke buffet or Galliano’s bodyguards might seem tame to what they get now. Are planes on the table?

But same, I wonder what MGC’s fix is.

I don’t think MGC is in the same alley as Nicolas and Hedi because it’s not the same base.
And usually, at that level, designers are not individuals but entities (company). So for example it’s Hedi Slimane LLC signing a contract with Celine. Then, the campaigns, stores, projects are all part of the budget of the company. It turns out that Hedi shoots his campaigns so, he charges Celine for that.

You have to see where the designer comes from in a way to imagine where he could be in terms of salary. Raf Simons was at Jil Sander when he joined Dior. So his most important contract may have been Calvin Klein. JWA was a young designer, like Riccardo, when he joined Loewe. So he is richer today than when he started but he probably around the 5/8 M a year by now, with the renewals.

don't forget raf

i've always wondered how the salaries of the CEOs compare to the creative directors'

Everybody got their rates. It’s really up to the person in terms of your own expectations and your resume. The CEO’s contract can have a clause regarding results when that’s not a prerogative for a designer.

I don’t think the CEO of Celine has as much money as Hedi Slimane. The top CEOs of the group are Pietro Beccari and Delphine Arnault. But I wouldn’t be sure that Michael Burke and Sydney Toledano and all the Etat Major of Arnault has excessive salaries either as they already are rich and they are kind of untouchable in a a way. They have all types of interests regarding their positions in the group and also the results.

Paris, Rome or Milan are such cheap cities to live in when you are making that type of money, compared to London or LA/NYC, that I don’t think the lifestyle is any different between those people.

 

[helmutnotdead]

I know that 10M a year is a lot of money but somehow I don’t feel it’s enough when you consider that they’re creating a whole universe that makes hundreds and hundreds of millions dollars per year.

 

[Creative]

^ Totally agree! But it’s always like that sadly.

MGC must be around 10M a year. CEOs, depending on the brand, Pietro could be around 15-20M easily.

Small CEOs around 2M…

The designer with the craziest demands I’ve heard was Riccardo.

 

[helmutnotdead]

^ Totally agree! But it’s always like that sadly.

MGC must be around 10M a year. CEOs, depending on the brand, Pietro could be around 15-20M easily.

Small CEOs around 2M…

The designer with the craziest demands I’ve heard was Riccardo.

tell me everything lol

 

[brandon J pierre]

I know that 10M a year is a lot of money but somehow I don’t feel it’s enough when you consider that they’re creating a whole universe that makes hundreds and hundreds of millions dollars per year.

It's horrible but that's the position that they're in it's less stress.

 

[Phuel]

Hedi at Tom Ford would be a disaster nobody wants to see happen. Thank god it’s never going to happen.

But your point is quite interesting…I never saw it that way actually. I think the romantic idea of Rive Gauche/ Rive Droite is interesting (as it’s not really relevant nowadays).

It’s funny because for me, Hedi is very Rive Droite because the spirit of Rive Gauche doesn’t exist anymore.

Hedi is very Paris/LA when Tom Ford is actually quite Milan/NYC. However at their prime, both at Gucci for Tom and DH for Hedi, they were both very Rive Gauche.

Hedi’s Celine is so 16eme arrondissement (which has absorbed so much of the Rive Gauche aesthetic over the decades) that it hurts. But if it has to be Rive Gauche, Hedi would be the 7th arrondissement.

But ultimately, I think they are quite opposite. Tom is Classic American fashion infused with French Couture when Hedi is very French Fashion (both Couture and archetypes) infused with American archetypes.

Btw I was told that Hedi recently moved back to Paris…

It's also for the references you’ve pointed out, that Tom and Hedi also are so much alike; very much two sides of the same coin: An international modernity deeply seeped in classic, traditional bespoke tailoring and dressmaking rooted in American RTW and French Couture; uncomplicated luxe and froufrou-free; both are drawn to a darker, even seedier sensibility that’s balanced with a proper, strict, restrained aesthetic that’s more invested in lifestyle than a fleeting fashion moment. It’s all from the same family— and that family’s instantly recognizable, admirable, and covetable. And that’s what's inspirational and aspirational about both their visions. Just their attitude is different. With Hedi at Tom Ford, at least I’ll know there will be coats and boots I’ll wear, maybe even a suit, even if the branding is more indie twinks. (I’d love the reintroduction of Hedi’s iconic Dior Homme cadet Chanel jacket recut at Tom Ford— now for men, and for women. That would be swoonworthy. …And as tiresome as the indie twinks and their even more tiresome trust fund waifs would be tediously doubled down if he were to move on from Celine, there’s always been an evolution of his preferred type— unlike what’s happened to Tom’s own label. So it would be, at least interesting, to see his versions of the Tom Ford indie twink and his trust fund waif…)

I just get get over that 25 years as Tom’s menswear right-hand man and personally appointed by Tom himself to lead for both men's and women's, then just over a year as that lead before being dismissed LMFAO How does one fcuk up this horrendously gifted with all the advantages he possessed going in, short of embezzling from the company…?!?!?! To be a fly on the wall on that fateful day for Peter… God, this needs to be a film.