Tom Ford S/S 2024 Milan

[LadyJunon]

Mr Hawkings glasses and facial hair style remind me way too much of Terry Richardson, and that was quite disturbing tbh.

He was the one behind Tom's campaigns at Gucci, so he's still very much on brand!

 

[IndigoHomme]

Every designer who can design a suit for women and add a sparkling touch can keep this brand alive. Let's be honest guys: the Ford' success formula was the perfect balance between a shining fabric and show some skin

 

[yslforever]

He was the one behind Tom's campaigns at Gucci, so he's still very much on brand!

And I thought those times were past, I don't need a Richardson comeback or revival.

 

[jeanclaude]

I was expecting a soulless "Greatest Hits" 101 collection...and the guy delivered it.

(redbubble.net)

PS. You don´t need a designer to make this.

 

[Darko]

He is like brutal architecture in world of fashion
I didn't liked in early '00
And now this seems like one big joke

 

[Lola701]

From the collection down to how Mr Hawkings looks, this is referential and nothing more.

It's like seeing a tribute show. It's well-executed, and it's great if you are planning to get those iconic signature pieces because you weren't around during Tom's Gucci era.

But will Hawkings take the Tom Ford brand towards the future and compose with the existing vocabulary to create a new chapter? Or will we just be revisiting Tom's past constantly?

He makes a decent clone and masters the TF language. Now I hope he will morph into himself, otherwise it will get redundant... Let's see!

I think reclaiming Tom Ford’s key moments in Milan is clever…Even more one day before Gucci but yes, his biggest challenge will be to evolve.
To his credit, he has succeeded in creating the new Tom Ford look for men in 2007 and make it evolve to something more casual, less precious while still luxurious.

He tried to distance himself enough from what was the brand in many ways…The city, the presentation, the casting, the styling.

The biggest issue for him I think will be the repositioning of the house. Tom Ford is a luxury brand and luxury brands means consistency. That’s part of the success of the menswear…

Tom was able to play with fashion, make drastic seasonal changes because he was an authority in fashion and at Gucci, it was easier to write a fashion story. I don’t know if that will be possible or even healthy for the brand.

I think daywear will be the way to go for the brand to be more modern. That what made Tom’s work successful at the time.

He has an opportunity to make a mark on the brand. A lot of people miss Tom Ford for Gucci from the 90’s but I don’t. I hope that Marie Chaix will push him even more and that he will gain in confidence and techniques. Tom has made a lot of collections without a lazy column jersey dress in his career so, it’s possible!

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Gorgeous fabrics and cuts. Hawkings' obviously favours a more masculine shape due to his background, but that is kind of exciting to see how that will go in the future for the women's wear.

If you remove all variants of the jersey columns, already it makes for a tighter collection. They really don't work at all here with the rest of the looks even though you know why they're presented. Not helped by the fact that so many other designers are also churning out jersey columns as of late so the idea of them is a bit blah unless they're altering the cuts to give them something else in presence.

But frankly, I'm not mad at and is a wonderful debut. Been missing this kind of glamour overall and even though it can feel a touch dated, the pieces themselves are effortlessly timeless for the most part which is a great way to start. Now lets see how the campaigns and advertising goes...

 

[TaylorBinque]

It's Tom Ford. I don't think I would expect anything different than this. It's a solid debut. I see many more accessories here. Definitely they want to expand their shoes and bags sales. So is the jewelry. Tailoring is good. But going forward, he needs to give something more. Something worthy of a runway. Like these stuff we can go in and buy at the store. I want more.

 

[Nimsay]

LaQuan’s Dad really. His collection would go perfectly with this. I think he and Peter wore the same sunglasses for their walk.

The fabrics are just gorgeous. The hot pink gabardine is in one of the best fabrics of the season. The silks beam like flashlights. The velvet suit for Spring seems odd. I wish we got more Spring materials. Lightweight knits dont feel right for humid climates. I also havent liked Toms 70s lapels in a really long time.

There are surprisingly few looks here. What is here is beautifully made. Toms OG look is dated and we need to accept that.

 

[MulletProof]

debut.. of what? doesn't he always show? (asking for my dumb friend of course )

I'm upset he's doing shows when he could be making a movie, but anyway, after the shows of horror and filth from the last few days, it's nice to look at something that aims at some kind of perfection, a woman who cares about looking good and is unapologetic about it and definitely not on some ironic/unshowered art hoe/weirdcore bs. Just.. love the richness of it all (the velvets, the green glittery [?] short shorts with the satin blouse, the pieces with the little fringes).

 

[KoV]

^ It's Hawkings' debut as Tom Ford's new creative director, post Ford selling his brand.

Tom did say in a recent-ish interview that he's writing a new movie, a dark comedy.

 

[MulletProof]

Tom did say in a recent-ish interview that he's writing a new movie, a dark comedy.

Good! I was thinking okay I'm sure a new collection helps to fund a film but it's also a distraction!

 

[Bernie Flood]

They should've just closed the brand if were being honest.

Not with the billion dollar accusation

 

[Bernie Flood]

Is Carine Roitfeld styling this? Looks like it.

 

[Bernie Flood]

Is it just me but its kinda reminds me of Hedi Slimane silhouette?

 

[BitterFashionQueen90]

The shoes and some accessories are so boring!!! Not a bad collection! Great colours and tailoring.

 

[tourbillions]

not groundbreaking but good enough. just wish they did something with the styling to keep it apart from celine, for a while i thought i was looking at celine.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It really helps to read the style.com feature to get a better understanding of what's happening at Tom Ford and where Peter Hawking wants to take the brand - I'm pleased to hear my expectations confirmed that he brought the men's and womenswear closer together, considering the many comments I made on previous Tom Ford collections in which I wrote how much nicer it be if they took the menswear as a starting point and made "daywear" like that for women... sometimes a louche cashmere sweater in a perfect hue of color with the right kind of neckline can evoke just as much sensuality as a dress, but that simplicity didn't have much place to shine. Also, you could tell the disconnect between what was going on in LA and London - Closing the LA studio or consolidating it with London was a necessary step to create a more cohesive brand identity for Tom Ford.

That being said, I like what I am seeing here. Seeing both collections more closely tied together with same fabrics and sometimes even matching styles feels more approachable and timely - If anything at all, this evokes good memories of Christopher Bailey in his best years at Burberry, another Tom Ford alumni. All in all, I think Peter Hawking brings a welcome breath of fresh air to Tom Ford, this collection is better than what we've seen of the brand in some years.

 

[Bernie Flood]

not groundbreaking but good enough. just wish they did something with the styling to keep it apart from celine, for a while i thought i was looking at celine.

Same thought too. But they want a profit

 

[LadyJunon]

Is Carine Roitfeld styling this? Looks like it.

No, Marie Chaix (Courrèges, Schiaparelli, Herrera, McCartney) styled this collection.