Peter Hawkings - Designer

[chriswiles]

I just get get over that 25 years as Tom’s menswear right-hand man and personally appointed by Tom himself to lead for both men's and women's, then just over a year as that lead before being dismissed LMFAO How does one fcuk up this horrendously gifted with all the advantages he possessed going in, short of embezzling from the company…?!?!?! To be a fly on the wall on that fateful day for Peter… God, this needs to be a film.

I agree, it's all messed up. I know someone at Tom Ford in the UK who claims they are confused internally with things going on and hopes it will become clearer, soon. They fear they'll lose the existing TF fans (such as myself) who bought into the brand as much for the man, the style and his ethos as the clothing. They also fear they'll forced to move away from classic men's tailoring. And they are right to feel that way.

I remember when Orlebar Brown was taken over by Chanel in 2018 and a lot of things changed - but one thing didn't change was that Adam Brown stayed with the brand, even if it was part-time and in more of an advisory role. That's important for consistency and historic customers who bought into the brand from the early days due to the work from Adam and his team and all the events we used to attend!

 

[brandon J pierre]

I agree, it's all messed up. I know someone at Tom Ford in the UK who claims they are confused internally with things going on and hopes it will become clearer, soon. They fear they'll lose the existing TF fans (such as myself) who bought into the brand as much for the man, the style and his ethos as the clothing. They also fear they'll forced to move away from classic men's tailoring. And they are right to feel that way.

I remember when Orlebar Brown was taken over by Chanel in 2018 and a lot of things changed - but one thing didn't change was that Adam Brown stayed with the brand, even if it was part-time and in more of an advisory role. That's important for consistency and historic customers who bought into the brand from the early days due to the work from Adam and his team and all the events we used to attend!

Do not be surprised in two or three years that Tom Ford the brand is no longer showing clothing it's happened before and it can happen again.

 

[jeremydante]

Peter should go to Givenchy, from here.
Still feel like he wasn't given enough time at Tom Ford. House code is still very young for me. I know Tom has many iconic works from Gucci and YSL, historically, but when you think of Tom Ford it doesn't have signatures as clear as say Chanel or Prada. And that's where it wants to be, strongly established. I honestly feel that Tom Ford as a label was sold too early, despite the fact that Tom himself had so many years in fashion under his belt. Everything is disposable these days and the importance of locking in with a house to really strengthen and focus on building is really not a thing anymore. It is sad.

With Peter being Tom's assistant at Gucci since 1998 and then following him for his namesake build-out, just like Virginie next to Karl- you can't replace that knowledge as easily. These fashion houses are making mistakes ridding themselves too soon of the new CDs. All this, yet MGC is still in place at Dior. It's both exhausting and annoying.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Peter should go to Givenchy, from here.
Still feel like he wasn't given enough time at Tom Ford. House code is still very young for me. I know Tom has many iconic works from Gucci and YSL, historically, but when you think of Tom Ford it doesn't have signatures as clear as say Chanel or Prada. And that's where it wants to be, strongly established. I honestly feel that Tom Ford as a label was sold too early, despite the fact that Tom himself had so many years in fashion under his belt. Everything is disposable these days and the importance of locking in with a house to really strengthen and focus on building is really not a thing anymore. It is sad.

With Peter being Tom's assistant at Gucci since 1998 and then following him for his namesake build-out, just like Virginie next to Karl- you can't replace that knowledge as easily. These fashion houses are making mistakes ridding themselves too soon of the new CDs. All this, yet MGC is still in place at Dior. It's both exhausting and annoying.

You know what that's a very good idea he's got 25 years under his belt great tailoring skills knows how to put on a fashion show

 

[jeremydante]

You know what that's a very good idea he's got 25 years under his belt great tailoring skills knows how to put on a fashion show

Exactly, if he goes to Givenchy he can bring with him the sensibility of sexy minimalism that he picked up being with Tom during the Gucci years, which had Tom's fashion star in the stratosphere. That is such valuable influence and experience.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Exactly, if he goes to Givenchy he can bring with him the sensibility of sexy minimalism that he picked up being with Tom during the Gucci years, which had Tom's fashion star in the stratosphere. That is such valuable influence and experience.

Absolutely and most importantly he knows how to make not just clothes find clothes . givenchy is so dead it's a completely dead brand it has no image for The last 5 years they have to be hemorrhaging money. Bag shoes and he can bring in that sexual charisma that we saw from just his two shows it wasn't overt but it was just enough to pick a curiosity of a fresh modern woman. Those coats from his collections with the gold buttons that I absolutely love would work seamlessly with givenchy.

 

[jeremydante]

Absolutely and most importantly he knows how to make not just clothes find clothes . givenchy is so dead it's a completely dead brand it has no image for The last 5 years they have to be hemorrhaging money. Bag shoes and he can bring in that sexual charisma that we saw from just his two shows it wasn't overt but it was just enough to pick a curiosity of a fresh modern woman. Those coats from his collections with the gold buttons that I absolutely love would work seamlessly with givenchy.

Yes, exactly. If Zenga Group didn't like this work, it feels suitable for Givenchy. I think that's what LVMH is looking for post-Tisci anyway. MW was too much of a wanna-be Tisci/Kanye. Which is understandable with his work influences, but still, Peter has a fresh take and it is really a shame they didn't give him more time but, I honestly wouldn't be surprised if Tom Ford as a label died in the next 5-10 years like most American labels. Peter would fit at Givenchy, would love to see it happen.

Sexy minimalism, an updated Tom Ford for Gucci type vision for Hubert De Givenchy's little black dress. So easy.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Yes, exactly. If Zenga Group didn't like this work, it feels suitable for Givenchy. I think that's what LVMH is looking for post-Tisci anyway. MW was too much of a wanna-be Tisci/Kanye. Which is understandable with his work influences, but still, Peter has a fresh take and it is really a shame they didn't give him more time but, I honestly wouldn't be surprised if Tom Ford as a label died in the next 5-10 years like most American labels. Peter would fit at Givenchy, would love to see it happen.

Sexy minimalism, an updated Tom Ford for Gucci type vision for Hubert De Givenchy's little black dress. So easy.

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe Donna Karen was purchased by LVMH back in the mid 2000s and then it just slowly disappeared. Halston Geoffrey Beene Calvin Klein so many it wouldn't surprise me one bit if named Tom Ford went into a Oblivion with the rest of American fashion. They can make loads of money off the perfumes just like Calvin Klein Tom has the perfume and the makeup sunglasses those will continue on. But we'll see what's next

 

[jeremydante]

Correct me if I'm wrong but I believe Donna Karen was purchased by LVMH back in the mid 2000s and then it just slowly disappeared. Halston Geoffrey Beene Calvin Klein so many it wouldn't surprise me one bit if named Tom Ford went into a Oblivion with the rest of American fashion. They can make loads of money off the perfumes just like Calvin Klein Tom has the perfume and the makeup sunglasses those will continue on. But we'll see what's next

Yes, it's like this weird life cycle for American fashion labels. They fade into obscurity. Or worse, become an outlet retailer. And to run it back, LVMH did buy Donna Karan in 2002 for $243M - and, upholding our shared point, where is she now other than a bottle of Cashmere Mist in a department store? Mmmmhmm. Fragrance counters can double as a fashion graveyard, I swear.

 

[brandon J pierre]

Yes, it's like this weird life cycle for American fashion labels. They fade into obscurity. Or worse, become an outlet retailer. And to run it back, LVMH did buy Donna Karan in 2002 for $243M - and, upholding our shared point, where is she now other than a bottle of Cashmere Mist in a department store? Mmmmhmm. Fragrance counters can double as a fashion graveyard, I swear.

Donna Karen is sold in Marshalls TJ Maxx but actually Donna Karen started another brand a very high-end sweaters and belts under a different name. I always wondered why American brands never hold like the Italians & French or even the British I think it's because of our greed once we see that buyout dollar we start to look at the longevity of the brand the ups and the downs and they sell Tom Ford sold for a reason . He had nothing left to say

 

[LadyJunon]

I think that Zegna might have possibly f*cked up TF's future by firing Peter Hawkings ao soon. The first 5-10 years following the founder's departure is such a fragile time, because the brand has to transition from a designer's vision to a heritage brand. Peter Hawkings was a good choice for TF, because his aim was to retain the heritage of the menswear, while widening the appeal of the womenswear. While the reception from the press was mostly lukewarm, the reception from buyers was largely positive with lots of them loving the Gucci-era references. Online TF were also big fans of Peter's collections.

Seeing how Tom Ford (the man) criticised Hawkings' collections, I wouldn't be suprised to the next CD is allowed to do an overhaul of the brand, including the men's suiting, which is the backbone of the company's business and identity. Growing a menswear audience outside of the streetwear aesthetic is quite a feat, so alienating them could be fatal to the brand.

It seems to be quite common for American luxury companies to have quite short lives. Lots of them seem to follow the Halston model of starting strong, over-expanding and falling into obscurity. Donna Karan is trying a contemporary revival, Calvin Klein had to shutter their runway line, Coach is still rebuilding their image, even Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren and Marc Jacobs are heavily dependant on secondary lines. Compared to its counterparts, TF is still quite "pure" compared to its peers: there's no diffusion lines, the beauty sits relatively high on the price spectrum and the licensing is minimal. Zegna has a 30-year license, so it's in their interest to make the brand work.

Peter Hawkings at Givenchy could be really good. He's capable of delivering an grown-up desirability and sensuality that doesn't feel like a bad 50s-meets-80s caricature which is severely lacking in fashion these days. Personally, I'd like to see him bring traditonal British chic back to Burberry or at have a revenge arc at Gucci.

 

[Lola701]

^^
I don’t see how Zegna would allow the new CD to do an overhaul on the menswear part as it’s the stronger area of the brand now and Tom Ford menswear offers an interesting area for menswear in the Zegna landscape.
Zegna is still classic menswear, Thom Browne is very much edgy and Tom Ford is the mix of the two.
They can expand to something more casual, similar to what Tom did at Gucci (even if Tom Ford menswear is leaning more into his YSL) but Zegna’s arena is suiting.

The good thing is that Zegna is not a luxury group like the others. They are from the fashion industry. The founders and families of all the brands in the group are still alive and can easily use their power of nuisance.

This is not LVMH or KERING.

Matter of fact, LVMH bought Arnys and haven’t changed anything there.

If Tom did one thing, it was freedom to Hawkings to go for it. If he doesn’t have the leader thing, it’s another question. Not all number 2s are meant to be number ones. Except for Herve Léger, which Karl’s assistant broke the scene? The same for Riccardo and others.
He was maybe at ease in menswear because it was his arena and his responsibility since Tom moved to LA but then it became something else. They needs a leader and someone confident.

I think they should hire externally for the womenswear but promote Peter’s number 2 to design director for the menswear.

 

[Irere]

Hedi? I could see the appeal and it might work for him and he might help with the fragrance but he hates Tom.

If there’s one thing Estée Lauder wouldn’t let Slimane or any other fashion creative director go near, it’s the Tom Ford fragrances. Those rake in money, and Estée Lauder’s not going to have anyone tinker with their well-oiled machine. After all, Tom Ford Fashion is merely a promotional tool — possibly even a loss leader — for Tom Ford Beauty.

 

[brandon J pierre]

If there’s one thing Estée Lauder wouldn’t let Slimane or any other fashion creative director go near, it’s the Tom Ford fragrances. Those rake in money, and Estée Lauder’s not going to have anyone tinker with their well-oiled machine. After all, Tom Ford Fashion is merely a promotional tool — possibly even a loss leader — for Tom Ford Beauty.

"possibly even a loss leader — for Tom Ford Beauty." Interesting take

 

[Kimihiro]

If there’s one thing Estée Lauder wouldn’t let Slimane or any other fashion creative director go near, it’s the Tom Ford fragrances. Those rake in money, and Estée Lauder’s not going to have anyone tinker with their well-oiled machine. After all, Tom Ford Fashion is merely a promotional tool — possibly even a loss leader — for Tom Ford Beauty.

That’s actually true. But, is it just me but the mystique and appeal of Tom Ford fragrances are slowly eroding?

 

[chriswiles]

That’s actually true. But, is it just me but the mystique and appeal of Tom Ford fragrances are slowly eroding?

Possibly. Certainly there are complaints about the rising cost, particularly in USD. I've never bought a TF fragrance from the US for this reason alone. The new Black Lacquer is $400 for 50ml. That's becoming insane.

Will be interesting to see how the brand handles SS25 as it was due for launch in Milan this September. Ok, the collection will be complete (designed months ago), but even so, the brand still needs press images and content for social media, the website and so on.

 

[rowjellies]

That’s actually true. But, is it just me but the mystique and appeal of Tom Ford fragrances are slowly eroding?

The names are certainly getting worse. In 2017 “f*cking Fabulous” was phenomenally successful. They just came out with “Vanilla Sex” which is embarrassing.

I also think right now the hype is more around niche fragrance-specialist brands like Parfums de Marly, Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

 

[jeanclaude]

The names are certainly getting worse. In 2017 “f*cking Fabulous” was phenomenally successful. They just came out with “Vanilla Sex” which is embarrassing.

I also think right now the hype is more around niche fragrance-specialist brands like Parfums de Marly, Maison Francis Kurkdjian.

I tried "f*cking Fabulous" in a department store, expecting something special...but it smells "f*cking Horrible"!

 

[rowjellies]

Current rumor is Haider Ackermann at Tom Ford, which is weird bc he was just hired at Canada Goose. Anyway, SOMEONE has been selected so we’ll probably hear an announcement soon.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

That’s actually true. But, is it just me but the mystique and appeal of Tom Ford fragrances are slowly eroding?

All I can say is that in Australia, the pricing for the perfumes are blinding. Even when it's one of the smaller bottles, the AUD pricing is frankly ridiculous. They still have a lot of prestige in some parts, as I always men in particular hanging around and looking at them but that's really it. They're just looking.

The other issue they have is not only the addition of more, but the fragrances go through a lot of reissuing and reformulating for a pending re-release (or just to be flat out gone with no word). Kind of put themselves in a position of self over-saturating.