Phoebe Philo - Designer

[philophile]

experimenting with shape/cute but never to theatrical and edge of fly latin /black girls

I am a Latin girl myself and I have yet to see that. This comment is simply unnecessary and risible, because it lacks any hint of truth and it is stereotyping people of color, besides attempting to see the alleged 'theatrical' and 'edge' in the latter as something negative or nothing that people should aspire to.

 

[philophile]

I think the row has just taken up a lot of the “quiet luxury” conversation and she’s having trouble regaining her audience

I don't think Phoebe Philo is intending to be in the 'quiet luxury' conversation as she was never a part of it. To classify her body of work as such is reductive and erroneous.

 

[philophile]

Is she doing Demna proportions now??

She always did volumes and played with proportions, it's part of her DNA way before there even was a Demna. It is in fact part of her appeal.

 

[brandon J pierre]

It's a very interesting collection I like it there's some nice things here and there but all of this quiet luxury is going to come to a crashing halt, glamor will prevail in 2 years or some new form of it. This is Chic but it's also very bleak we live in a bleak world and there's no fantasy here. If you watch all of these quiet luxury collections in one it's actually terrified.

 

[blueorchid]

luxurious maternity outfit for intellectual working women with exquisite taste in fashion and arts

I was going to say, for the woman about to give birth to the antichrist... but, this works.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I fail to see the use of shearling jogging trousers, a trench coat with a train, as well as this apron full-length half-skirt she's come up with this season. She must be trolling her audience at this point, clearly those kind of clothes aren't conceived for her woman to have an active lifestyle.

Also, I wanna see her fans dragging their
1500€-and-upwards slouchy pants through the dirt since nobody seems to bother hemming them to a walkable length.

 

[tourbillions]

these would all have been nice a few years ago when everyone else was doing something else. But now everyone's doing the same vibe.

 

[j02215]

I know she’s focusing on her brand and not working for another namesake, but this is how I’d imagine margiela in 2024.

 

[tatouejeremie]

except for some of the outerwear, it all looks so unpractical - which is the opposite of what her céline was imo.

i sort of like it as a statement but as a genuine fashion proposition it's too cumbersome

 

[brandon J pierre]

I know she’s focusing on her brand and not working for another namesake, but this is how I’d imagine margiela in 2024.

Wow they same thing came into my head.

 

[brandon J pierre]

View attachment 1318410
What on earth is this?
Source: Vogue Runway/Phoebe Philo

Intelligent and intellectual quiet couture 😭😂

 

[Lola701]

Still very good. It’s the continuation of the first collection so I’m not expecting anything groundbreaking.
I wish she releases the video to see the clothes moving.

For me it’s a fashion proposition. I’m not into the idea of mimicking the aesthetic of the brand simply because I’m a « philophile ». I’m a bit tired of the super-oversized thing and wanting a more balanced silhouette but it’s a matter of appreciation, sizing a fitting once you got the pieces.

I still think her proposition is superior to her various « children »

 

[philophile]

Still very good. It’s the continuation of the first collection so I’m not expecting anything groundbreaking.
I wish she releases the video to see the clothes moving.

For me it’s a fashion proposition. I’m not into the idea of mimicking the aesthetic of the brand simply because I’m a « philophile ». I’m a bit tired of the super-oversized thing and wanting a more balanced silhouette but it’s a matter of appreciation, sizing a fitting once you got the pieces.

I still think her proposition is superior to her various « children »

Yeah, the oversize thingy is exhausting. Someone pointed out on the 'Why is the fashion industry in the state that it is now' that it is simply a trick the fashion industry has adopted at large in order to cut costs/increase profits and it truly makes sense.

Overall, if I think of PP, even though we can partly blame her for the masculine and oversized shapes that have been predominant in the past 10 years, I still mostly think of her feminine silhouettes or a playful mixture of different things resulting in something that has just the right amount of whimsical. As a Philophile, I am more inspired by and kind of addicted to this principle of combining opposing things and "cleaning it up. Making it strong and powerful" as she once said rather than copypasting her entire aesthetic. This principle can be applied to literally anything resulting in endless possibilities for design and style, that's why her work is so copied, it's an entire universe of creativity.

Come to think of PP's oeuvre, it was never groundbreaking in individual pieces or particular collections, it was her body of work and its overall everlasting impact what can be considered the latter. This is why I think people who are suddenly expecting a Margiela Version 2.0 or the impact of Phoebe's 9 years of work at Céline compiled and squeezed into only two collections to be unrealistic and unable to see the whole picture, besides the fact that this is an emerging label with a limited budget barely starting to undergo construction. Haters always gonna hate.

 

[avonlea002]

I don't like any of it but I do appreciate how sincere it feels.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

Obviously, I love everything but I can’t believe she’s doubling down on those shredded ribbon pieces. Though they photograph beautifully and were referenced all S/S 2025, they’re a disaster in person.

 

[jeanclaude]

She always did volumes and played with proportions, it's part of her DNA way before there even was a Demna. It is in fact part of her appeal.

But when she played with proportions and volumes in the past it was flattering. This time I said she went the Demna route because in this last drop it looks like a caricature (huge shoulders, too long pants; and that strange thing in the front part of a dress). Very unflattering!

 

[velvetandsilk]

The sunglasses would be hit with right marketing. The most strongest product in all collection. The main question is what she want achieve? If only reach on a very narrow group of people - is decent collection without hit, but if the main goal is build huge fashion house - it's rather a poor chance. The problems it is that this type of proportions clothes look good only on high people, the average customer will be look such a clown.

 

[Steddycam91]

Not to give him too much (i.e. any) credit, but I do recall Phoebe's last few collections for Céline feeling Demna-inspired, and that even being brought up and discussed here at the time...

 

[Alquimista]

View attachment 1318410
What on earth is this?
Source: Vogue Runway/Phoebe Philo

There was a woman here in brasil who faked a pregnancy by wearing a big balloon underneath her dress. Maybe Phoebe is just making things easy for the girls - the fake pump is build in!

 

[LadyJunon]

The current set of "tasteful minimalists" would have a stroke if she dared to release a collection like this today, especially with this sort of "bad taste" styling.

Source: AnOther Magazine