Phoebe Philo to leave Céline

[Nomar]

What an absolute shame! Phoebe has really become an icon and during her tenure at Céline, she has really produced some of the most incredible work. It's obvious that she has inspired so many other designers and I guess it goes to show what a true talent she is. I really wish her all of the best for whatever she chooses to do next.

I would really like to see Simon Porte Jacquemus next at Céline. He absolutely deserves more recognition and I feel like he could take the brand in so many new and intersting ways.

 

[Wenden]

Her influence is tremendous and while people may think that Michele or Gvasalia have a real influence, we are still in a very Philo-Ghesquiere dominated era.

^ This!

Sad news, but expected. The only person I can see that could "replace" her is Stefano Pilati. They've benn inspiration for each other, and he could do a really good job. I don't know if Jacquemus understands luxury yet, I think he is a way better match for Lanvin (mother-daughter, naivety).

 

[Lola701]

^ This!

Sad news, but expected. The only person I can see that could "replace" her is Stefano Pilati. They've benn inspiration for each other, and he could do a really good job. I don't know if Jacquemus understands luxury yet, I think he is a way better match for Lanvin (mother-daughter, naivety).

Luxury today is just a term used to define high fashion and justify the insane prizes of the brands.
We are in a era where a printed designer t-shirt is on the same level with a Chanel tweed jacket.

The problem today is that designers totally understand what luxury means for big conglomerates but only a few understand design and the purpose of high fashion.

But Pilati like Jacquemus can do Celine justice.

 

[bc collector]

I don't know who started the Jacquemus rumor but I think he/she mustn't have thought for longer than 2 seconds; I definitely think there's genuine talent there but I'd rather have Jacquemus develop his own vision/brand for a tad longer rather than throwing him in the lion's den so soon, at the risk of jeopardizing his entire career.
I am also kind of startled at the fact that, in the whirlwind of names named as possible successors to Phoebe, no one thought of Louise Trotter whom, I think, is doing a very good job at Joseph (a brand for basic pieces where I feel her efforts go a bit lost, sometimes she is massively underrated and definitely deserves a better spotlight for her talent.

 

[Benn98]

I don't know, I feel like Céline is too much for him right now. The customer don't need innovation, the brand is doing great on all fronts, so what will he bring? That's actually the biggest mystery about Phoebe's 10year stint. Her aesthetic never saturated. Jacquemus should've gone to Lanvin where he could've expanded alongside this brand.

 

[Benn98]

I don't know who started the Jacquemus rumor but I think he/she mustn't have thought for longer than 2 seconds; I definitely think there's genuine talent there but I'd rather have Jacquemus develop his own vision/brand for a tad longer rather than throwing him in the lion's den so soon, at the risk of jeopardizing his entire career.

Two parts of her prediction already proved to be true.
It's now a race to see whether Burberry or Céline will announce their new successor first.

 

[lewak]

Jacquemus better than Proenza Schouler for this (they being gossiped about too)....

Pilati actually better for Lanvin, I'd say. Its only hope is as Discerning Lady Brand

Lutz Huelle said he'd like a big job such as Celine when asked directly in a wonderful Pop magazine interview a year or two ago....

 

[ogepma]

This is very sad but since the rumours have been going around for a while, not entirely unexpected. I've been binge watching her collections lately and began to appreciate how brilliant she is in giving simple designs the most intricate details. She truly defined an era. Not every collection was ground breaking but even then, she was still better than her copiers.

I think she'd do wonders at Burberry and make it special again. Over the last few years, in an effort to keep the books in order, the label became overtly commercialised and turned into Michael Kors plus. I miss the Prorsum line, especially when it was shown in Milan. I hope she goes there and sorts it out. It'll be great seeing her design some menswear too.

As for her replacement, I think Pilati will indeed be a great fit BUT as much as I want him there, I think Lanvin desperately needs him. Jacquemus will also be interesting as well as JW Anderson. But I definitely don't want to see him leave LOEWE!

 

[tricotineacetat]

I don't find it particularly emotional to see her resign from Céline, it's pretty certain she will come back to become the creative director at another house - Her flawlessly successful 10 year tenure should secure she can continue to work elsewhere under relatively comfortable conditions as she did at Céline, where her job was fit after her exacting demands.

 

[TaylorBinque]

Really sad but also exciting for what she will be doing next. The work that she has crafted and put in making Celine what it is today is tremendous and I agree with Lola that even though the buzz and hype of Michele and Demna are in the air, the majority and fast fashion brands still have Celine on their mood board. Her tenure was really flawless. Even her least uninspiring collection prove to be better than most designers. And the fact even without digital presence or e-commerce, it proves that creativity, design and talent can really contribute to a fashion house and business.

While I think Pilati has a knack and talent for it, the direction Celine is going to take after Phoebe would be more in line with other LVMH brands. Jacquemus would do so well here and he has the buzz around him already.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

She's a great designer but she hasn't really evolved that much since she started at Celine. She tried to experiment back in 2015 but she quickly went back to her signature "Celine" style. It works, but it's not that interesting anymore. Her last year proved that to be true. Perhaps she's against change? Maybe it really is time for her to leave. She did a lot for the house, and her tenure will go down in history. I hope she goes out with a bang for her last collection.

 

[1127]

I can't believe it's already been 10 years! I always look at her collections like she's on her third or fourth year.

She's had a stellar, flawless decade there, even when ripping off Sharon Wauchob. Céline was 200% s*it before her and for such a long time.. now we all think of Céline as something clean.. forward-thinking, she's been amazing for them but I don't blame her for wanting to move on after such a long time.. I would!

Exactly what I am thinking…..

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Céline asked Lemaire but he refused the job someone told me...

Accepting this position is a dangerous gift.... Philo redefined fashion, luxury and communication in a very unique way and only a very few people we could with the fingers of one hand could fil the gap left behind her.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Céline asked Lemaire but he refused the job someone told me...

Accepting this position is a dangerous gift.... Philo redefined fashion, luxury and communication in a very unique way and only a very few people we could with the fingers of one hand could fil the gap left behind her.

Well, thank god Lemaire didn't end up there - I'd rather have him stay with Uniqlo where having a top Paris designer really makes a difference than for him to continue the aesthetic template already established at Céline by Phoebe. There's really no prestige for him to win there at this point, after Hermès.

 

[Norden]

I couldn’t agree more. Hermès was done so gracefully by lemaire. I think to go to Céline would be an uninteresting move for him.
It’s too bad Tomas Tait has left the spotlight. I really liked his development and I could see someone like him take on Céline after Philo

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

I couldn’t agree more. Hermès was done so gracefully by lemaire. I think to go to Céline would be an uninteresting move for him.
It’s too bad Tomas Tait has left the spotlight. I really liked his development and I could see someone like him take on Céline after Philo

Couldn't agree more

 

[fashionista-ta]

My heart goes out to Victoria Beckham in these hard times.

So touched by your empathy

Very interesting tidbit about the interview. So what would that mean?

 

[fashionista-ta]

Jacquemus better than Proenza Schouler for this (they being gossiped about too)....

Pilati actually better for Lanvin, I'd say. Its only hope is as Discerning Lady Brand

Lutz Huelle said he'd like a big job such as Celine when asked directly in a wonderful Pop magazine interview a year or two ago....

The best fit for Lanvin right now is a designer with a death wish.

 

[Marc10]

My heart goes out to Victoria Beckham in these hard times.

But seriously tho, I fear for a dozen of brand out there. They'll be like headless chickens without Phoebe guiding their path forward.

 

[perhydrol]

All the Proenzas of this world are quaking.

It's going to be even worse to handle than Lanvin after Alber imho. Phoebe transformed Céline on so many levels with its aesthetics into something truly personal and honest. And even if it had been repetitive for few seasons, it still felt like real fashion. That's why they should leave it to the team for some time. Those people would do fabulous job in terms of preparing the brand for its new chapter because they are already trained like nobody else and they had that independence under Philo.

What scares me is the list of candidates. Hiring a potential copycat is the worst idea for Céline and it seems like they want to go that direction.