Phoebe Philo - Designer

[Frederic01]

I believe this is the new collection?


MAX WIGRAM

 

[PDFSD]

www.anothermag.com​

A Portfolio by Phoebe Philo & Collier Schorr​

Phoebe Philo and Collier Schorr have worked magic for more than three decades between them. Here they capture a story creatively directed by both and featuring Philo’s eponymous collection​

September 09, 2024
Creative DirectorPhoebe Philo & Collier SchorrPhotographyCollier SchorrStylingPhoebe Philo
Lead ImageSihana is wearing Phoebe PhiloCreative Direction by Phoebe Philo & Collier Schorr, Photography by Collier Schorr, Styling by Phoebe Philo

 

[philophile]

Those Mary Jane shoes in the black and white photo are killing me since I first saw them on the campaign. Now THOSE will sell out immediately and I predict they will become the new 'It' shoes once they're released.

 

[avonlea002]

Collier Snore and her boring photography.

 

[PDFSD]

Collier Snore and her boring photography.

agree!!! but often it ages better because it's not so time sensitive ...its bit anti fashion photography anti hype maybe some pics i get thsi but ...then again it's just another editorial

 

[Lola701]

This is maybe the first time ever that I enjoy something from Collier!

 

[ecnerretneerg]

agree!!! but often it ages better because it's not so time sensitive ...its bit anti fashion photography anti hype maybe some pics i get thsi but ...then again it's just another editorial

I agree with this, but nothing about this collab did her brand justice. Imo, if she worked with someone like Mark Borthwick or the Posternaks, it would’ve translated better

 

[PDFSD]

I agree with this, but nothing about this collab did her brand justice. Imo, if she worked with someone like Mark Borthwick or the Posternaks, it would’ve translated better

yes but it's ok to switch for an editorial and some fail some are more stronger pics....... from her look book and website it's also a mix of photographer mostly are from Talia Chetrit i love her work much more in general then Collier

​

 

[philophile]

The layered trousers

 

[LadyJunon]

They just updated the website and it's gorgeous. They reformated the front page and they modified the product pages a bit. Such a minor change made everything so much better.

 

[philophile]

And a lot of the new products are very desirable too. Lotsa things caught my eye this time around, differently to other times.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I don’t know, I would have totally understood for the strategy and insane pricing of her brand if she had launched it shortly after leaving Celine. It’s far from *bad* but at this point, it feels such a non-event for her to release these kind of clothes that her imitators have churned out to a point of saturation, with similar imagery etc. - The reason she can seemingly get away with it is entirely based on the fact that it’s by her, otherwise I find it rather charmless that she just puts the clothes up there with visuals that give you nothing, that could have again been by any of the brands that still have her old Celine on their moodboards.

Her brand really needs a bit more life aside from selling product and the expected style of photography that we associate with her fashion. The brand just feels very secretive, sterile and uninviting.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Also regarding one of her recurring design gimmicks since launching her brand - slapping a detachable leather or fabric rectangle on a garment is NOT what I expect from a designer who is held in the highest esteem by the industry and clients. That leather tabard dress is an abomination!

 

[lookatme]

I don’t know, I would have totally understood for the strategy and insane pricing of her brand if she had launched it shortly after leaving Celine. It’s far from *bad* but at this point, it feels such a non-event for her to release these kind of clothes that her imitators have churned out to a point of saturation, with similar imagery etc. - The reason she can seemingly get away with it is entirely based on the fact that it’s by her, otherwise I find it rather charmless that she just puts the clothes up there with visuals that give you nothing, that could have again been by any of the brands that still have her old Celine on their moodboards.

Her brand really needs a bit more life aside from selling product and the expected style of photography that we associate with her fashion. The brand just feels very secretive, sterile and uninviting.

Totally agree with this.

Is it fair that the style she pioneered has been and continues to be so shamelessly aped for the last decade to the point of exhaustion? No.

BUT - as a "leader" in the industry, I would have wanted to see her push it just enough to get ahead again. I don't even necessarily think there's anything wrong with the clothes themselves, per se...but even just the styling and photography and presentation being a continuation of her Celine is problematic to me...what if there was something a bit more stylized or glamorous this time around? What if there was something more playful or romantic? She had such a change in style and purpose from her Chloe to her Celine, so I don't see why she couldn't switch things up again here. Yes - she's the OG, but like you mentioned, you can now buy this "style" from a good 2-dozen other brands currently putting out similar product, so I guess the label is all that separates this from their's.

This gallerista look is the rotten corpse of a long-dead horse.

 

[Creative]

I love it because I love her style, the product is interesting, some of it is quite beautiful… but feels kind of old in a way. I get that she doesn’t even care about being modern anymore and I’m sure many women would love to dress like that, but I expect more from her.

Even if she doesn’t change the clothes, this kind of presentations feel so… done.

 

[tricotineacetat]

As a brand, there are more ways to connect with an audience than the major luxury maisons, there are people like Lemaire who have established a clear culture around their brand that feels alive, it’s handled tastefully and with charm. It’s a very warm and inviting brand, they truely found their own way of handling it and it accounts greatly to their slow-and-steady success.

Nothing gives you a chance to connect with the Phoebe Philo brand, though. She puts the product up there with little description of the product or narrative. Women connected with Phoebe and her personal sense of style a lot, but with herself becoming more and more reclusive, what is the calling card for her? She can’t behind a big institutional brand the way Hedi Slimane can, where there is a huge machinery of visuals balancing Hedi’s refusal for further communication.

 

[Thefrenchy]

I don't know... Just had a look at the new drop and while there are so many beautiful and desirable pieces, it's all so dry and sad. She really needs to start building up the world around her brand because this is going to feel redundant really fast.

 

[plentyofhorns]

Also regarding one of her recurring design gimmicks since launching her brand - slapping a detachable leather or fabric rectangle on a garment is NOT what I expect from a designer who is held in the highest esteem by the industry and clients. That leather tabard dress is an abomination!

Those attachable leather capes add an extra $3k+ lol. The first coat on the site is $16000!!

 

[j02215]

I think phoebe is learning the hard way that being a successful designer does not equate to being a successful business owner.

She really needs to have her entire business model re-examined. Production schedule, pricing, online/physical store introduction, communications, and client services have all been sloppy. They tried to create exclusivity, but it ends up being so disconnected from the audiences and burdensome for their customers that they’ve lost their allure.

It’s interesting that they are essentially running the brand like an art gallery - but I just don’t think the products are desirable or distinct enough for it to work.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

Idk, I find the criticism over her brand being “too old-Celine” tired. Her brand isn’t even a year old yet. If Hedi Slimane had his own namesake brand, the clothes and presentation would be virtually the same as they were at Dior Homme, SL, and Celine. She started Celine from scratch and had multiple covetable hits, so I think it was smart for her to self-reference for her brand. Every designer that worked under Philo referenced their old-Celine work (Blazy, Lee, and Do). Plus, its not really her fault that old-Celine is the foundation of most brands’ aesthetic.

To me, her brand cements the fact that you can give someone the ingredients, but the recipe won’t be the same. I love the most recent edit and I’m so excited to see more.