Phoebe Philo - Designer

[yslforever]

The closest Phoebe has to a brand ambassador is Oprah.

And honestly 😷 🤢
Some might say she’s «problematic » other would consider she willingly ignored or enabled the vilest people of this industry ; Crosby, Weinstein, Diddy, Epstein, and so on.

 

[joedago]

Yes it’s about Pharrell. I was just joking given the fact that he is at her corner at DSM.

got it, got it, thank you

 

[Deleted member 164735]

Agreed! Oprah looks great and it's nice to see high fashion on bodies that aren't a size 2.

Came here to say the same thing. Semi-tired of these perfect bodies on red carpets and at events looking perfect in PP / LV etc etc
ok Oprah is not the go to influencer but this is some hint at size diversity at least

 

[Deleted member 164735]

What about the next decade? Will this look go on and on forever ? Oversize and bulky is over and i’ve always found it joyless, severe, miserable

Good point actually
I too am curious to see if PP will evolve as a brand and if Phoebe will evolve as a designer . Weve experienced so much of her Celine and it’s copy cats that maybe it’s time to evolve into something else or else we are going around in circles

 

[jeanclaude]

Of all the famous women out there, the last one who I thought could be interested in Phoebe Philo was Oprah!

 

[Lorenzogi]

Good point actually
I too am curious to see if PP will evolve as a brand and if Phoebe will evolve as a designer . Weve experienced so much of her Celine and it’s copy cats that maybe it’s time to evolve into something else or else we are going around in circles

yes she has to go back to square one, this has come to a dead-end

 

[IsabelMarantBoy]

Couldn't agree more with the sentiments of her style becoming tired and boring.

Do I wish her nothing but success?? Absolutely. Am I also tired of the sterility of her work the past decade? Also yes.

I think with the resurgence of the Y2K/2000's aesthetics in fashion, I'd love to see her move on and channel something a little more lush and sexy in a less conceptual/clinical way.

 

[br3ncon1]

I feel like there's this constant pressure in the industry for a “savior” — someone who’s supposed to radically reinvent everything, season after season. But that expectation says more about how fashion consumers are conditioned to chase spectacle than it does about the work itself. If you’re expecting some massive left turn from Phoebe, you might be chasing a moment that was never going to happen.

 

[Lorenzogi]

I feel like there's this constant pressure in the industry for a “savior” — someone who’s supposed to radically reinvent everything, season after season. But that expectation says more about how fashion consumers are conditioned to chase spectacle than it does about the work itself. If you’re expecting some massive left turn from Phoebe, you might be chasing a moment that was never going to happen.

i think this is more about Phoebe having to defy herself, Picasso constantly reinvented himself for his own pleasure. Phoebe is more like Gerhard Richter giving the same old over and over. Lazy (and convenient for the time being)
But she’s not a genius, maybe this is all she can come up with?

 

[Deleted member 119799]

What do artists have to do with fashion designers anyway? They work in completely different systems. Fashion operates within seasons, teams, budgets, and commercial constraints. Phoebe Philo isn't trying to reinvent herself like Picasso because that's not the job she's doing. She's designing a coherent, personal wardrobe vision.

And even if we do compare her to artists: her work at Chloé was distinct from her Céline era, and even within Céline, her early collections were very different from the later ones. To call her "lazy" just because she’s not chasing spectacle feels more like a misunderstanding of her intention than a critique of her talent.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I’d even say with her Céline, she went from a very American Minimalist approach to something more Art Provera, and now at her namesake she’s opted for something more monastic and utilitarian, with a touch more relaxed sensuality. I don’t know why people keep putting this pressure on her. She’s doing what she does well, and starting it off this way just makes it easier to manage at large.

Keep in mind LVMH are also probably trying to keep things slower going after what had happened with Rihanna’s Fenty. That blew up quickly, both the good and bad side of it. I don’t think they want to relive that again so soon.

 

[PDFSD]

i think this is more about Phoebe having to defy herself, Picasso constantly reinvented himself for his own pleasure. Phoebe is more like Gerhard Richter giving the same old over and over. Lazy (and convenient for the time being)
But she’s not a genius, maybe this is all she can come up with?

Gerhard Richter changed/developed/researched his style and did many ideas that challenge what painting means .... his career spans more than six decades

lol at 93 years old now leave one of the greatest german painter alone pls internet is out of control!!!!!

 

[Lorenzogi]

Gerhard Richter changed/developed/researched his style and did many ideas that challenge what painting means .... his career spans more than six decades

lol at 93 years old now leave one of the greatest german painter alone pls internet is out of control!!!!!

Jerry Saltz agrees wirh me: “I find much of Richter's work strangely unsatisfying, mechanical and dour. He is praised for being exceptionally "changeable," but his veerings between abstraction and representation have a predictable rhythm.”

 

[PDFSD]

Jerry Saltz agrees with me: “I find much of Richter's work strangely unsatisfying, mechanical and dour. He is praised for being exceptionally "changeable," but his veerings between abstraction and representation have a predictable rhythm.”

Jerry has American taste that's why he was guest judge on two reality tv shows (one on Bravo), be my guest take your art advice from a populist art comic ....here in Europe we love Richter and enjoy his works.

To not expect some mechanical (riguor) feeling in german art is like going to NYC and be surprised your yelled at for walking too slow .

happy to have a small richter and Jerry can keep being unsatisfied :-)

predictable rhythm is called style and unlike picasso that rif from african art, Richter discovered his own styles and endlessly explored them till he got bored or moved on to the next idea.

i am happy to see Phoebe develop at her own pace after all she is Phoebe and none of us are her its a start of a brand we are not 5 years in to even complain she is a one trick pony etc .

The Row was not build in a day lol

 

[tricotineacetat]

What do artists have to do with fashion designers anyway? They work in completely different systems. Fashion operates within seasons, teams, budgets, and commercial constraints. Phoebe Philo isn't trying to reinvent herself like Picasso because that's not the job she's doing. She's designing a coherent, personal wardrobe vision.

And even if we do compare her to artists: her work at Chloé was distinct from her Céline era, and even within Céline, her early collections were very different from the later ones. To call her "lazy" just because she’s not chasing spectacle feels more like a misunderstanding of her intention than a critique of her talent.

The sad reality of fashion in 2025 because the designers whose work got me interested in fashion design were monographic 'authors' much in the way of any good artists and not the creatives of today where you can feel the influence of a merchandiser, a CEO and shareholders in the way clothes are being designed.

 

[Lola701]

i think this is more about Phoebe having to defy herself, Picasso constantly reinvented himself for his own pleasure. Phoebe is more like Gerhard Richter giving the same old over and over. Lazy (and convenient for the time being)
But she’s not a genius, maybe this is all she can come up with?

If you compare the work of a designer to the one of an artist, then in her 20 years career, we can say that her style evolved quite a bit right? And if we define her work by eras, then this is just a continuation of her last era.
I think the longest era of Picasso was the surrealist one? This version of Phoebe, in her design time frame is still shorter than the surrealist era of Picasso…
Chloe in 2002 looked different from Chloe in 2006. Celine in 2010 was different from Chloe, but then became different in 2014 to be different again when she retires…

Even if I find it ridiculous to compare designers with artists, she is still creating a body of work. Picasso ended his creative story.

 

[fruitdots]

Wild to call it a ‘one trick’ when the entire industry spent the last decade milking her aesthetic.

A bit of misogyny to it too. I don't recall anyone treating Alaia this way, and he wasn't constantly "reinventing."

 

[LadyJunon]

A bit of misogyny to it too. I don't recall anyone treating Alaia this way, and he wasn't constantly "reinventing."

Oddly enough, I consider Alaia to be more one-trick than Philo is.

 

[Lorenzogi]

A bit of misogyny to it too. I don't recall anyone treating Alaia this way, and he wasn't constantly "reinventing."

Call it misogyny as soon as somebody criticises some female designer. Well i adore Vivienne Westwood and i find Alaia vulgar.

 

[Deleted member 164735]

A bit of misogyny to it too. I don't recall anyone treating Alaia this way, and he wasn't constantly "reinventing."

is it misogyny though? we trash Blazy and SDSS over here endlessly similarly to PP. to me there has never been a sense of misogyny there, its just about what they do as designers
in fact the appreciation for women on here is fantastic considering theres so many threads here appreciating so many models and other female industry professionals
sorry to jump in with my 2 cents lol