Phoebe Philo - Designer

[j02215]

I find most pieces to be overly fuzzy and cumbersome for real life 😅

 

[marines]

 

[Lola701]

Those cocoon leather…For the chilly climate of Geneva, hanging around Lac Leman…Oh! The dream!
It’s nothing essentially new as some concepts and shapes are familiar and have been explored by her before but the work on leather and the more editorial feel makes it fresh enough!

The buckle sandals are very Balenciaga by Pierre Hardy for the SS 2003 collection.
It’s not her first time copying PH for Balenciaga (the tight high boots from FW2003 that she copied for her FW2013).

But first I have a leather bomber to get!

I like that she build showpieces around a line of her essentials.

 

[PDFSD]

love the new clean sexy interpretation of the
Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière Iconic SS2003 Scuba show multi straps heels
wish Nicolas LV had more of this now.

 

[jeanclaude]

I only like this top, I think is an interesting mix between Cristóbal Balenciaga and Comme des Garçons:

I hate this fake fur diaper-short...WTF was she thinking??:

The rest is pretty similar to her prior drops.

 

[youthinasia]

I hate this fake fur diaper-short...WTF was she thinking??:

Furrie Cosplay but make it fashion.

Phoebe Phurrie

 

[Creative]

It’s nice but soooooo repetitive in the mood. I get the timeless wardrobe thing, but dear lord, it’s becoming a little bit tiring.

It’s always the same, I need a little bit of fantasy now and a more “collection” feeling. Feels like I’m still living in 2016.

The hair, the poses, the oversized garments, the beyond white studio shots… looks so so so passé.

 

[Lola701]

love the new clean sexy interpretation of the
Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière Iconic SS2003 Scuba show multi straps heels
wish Nicolas LV had more of this now.

Sometimes I wonder if NG is not strategic about those things at Vuitton.
Weirdly, he has redone a lot of things from his Balenciaga collections. I don’t remember if it was last year or 2 years ago when he redid a section of the SS2005 collection…
But except for the FW2004 boots that he remixed, it’s weird that he never redid things…
Maybe out of respect for Pierre Hardy…
Or maybe they plan to re-release them at some point but I have always found it weird.

 

[fruitdots]

Sometimes I wonder if NG is not strategic about those things at Vuitton.
Weirdly, he has redone a lot of things from his Balenciaga collections. I don’t remember if it was last year or 2 years ago when he redid a section of the SS2005 collection…
But except for the FW2004 boots that he remixed, it’s weird that he never redid things…
Maybe out of respect for Pierre Hardy…
Or maybe they plan to re-release them at some point but I have always found it weird.

Would Fabrizio Viti be up to the task? I'm not sure—I think the Hardy/Ghesquiere collaboration was a pretty singular phenomenon. This is not to say that Viti isn't excellent at what he does (he did some brilliant work for Vuitton under Marc Jacobs). He's just not Pierre Hardy, and the shoes Hardy designed for Balenciaga are the best of over a decade...

 

[Lola701]

Would Fabrizio Viti be up to the task? I'm not sure—I think the Hardy/Ghesquiere collaboration was a pretty singular phenomenon. This is not to say that Viti isn't excellent at what he does (he did some brilliant work for Vuitton under Marc Jacobs). He's just not Pierre Hardy, and the shoes Hardy designed for Balenciaga are the best of over a decade...

Viti has proved that he can do it. I mean at least from a technical level.
The boots from the FW2021 and even some of the shoes from the FW2025 are quite wild.
But yes, the collaboration between Viti and Ghesquiere is more pragmatic: the Donna boots, the archlights, the silhouette boots, the puffy kind of shoes.

My take is that Pierre Hardy would eventually be the footwear designer when NG goes solo post-Vuitton.

Pierre Hardy own shoes have become less spectacular too since he is not working with NG. And between what he does for Hermes and his own brand, he really need that room where he would challenge himself.

That being said, I think even some of the most spectacular shoes they made at Balenciaga wouldn’t be relevant if shown today.

My favorite pair of boots ever comes from their collaboration (from the resort 2012).

 

[fruitdots]

Viti has proved that he can do it. I mean at least from a technical level.
The boots from the FW2021 and even some of the shoes from the FW2025 are quite wild.
But yes, the collaboration between Viti and Ghesquiere is more pragmatic: the Donna boots, the archlights, the silhouette boots, the puffy kind of shoes.

My take is that Pierre Hardy would eventually be the footwear designer when NG goes solo post-Vuitton.

Pierre Hardy own shoes have become less spectacular too since he is not working with NG. And between what he does for Hermes and his own brand, he really need that room where he would challenge himself.

That being said, I think even some of the most spectacular shoes they made at Balenciaga wouldn’t be relevant if shown today.

My favorite pair of boots ever comes from their collaboration (from the resort 2012).

Yeah I agree overall. And I think Hermès 2016 minority stake in Hardy's brand is important, not just the end of his working relationship with Ghesquiere. Since Hermès has been providing market strategy/guidance, Hardy's work has become far more conservative & directed towards sustained growth.

And certainly some of their best shoes would seem out-of-step with today's trends (no pun intended), but I think they were always quite idiosyncratic, so maybe relevance—as situatedness within a general context/field—is sort of beside the point? I suppose people were buying them because they presaged new trends, but they were also often so far removed from "relevance" (vis-a-vis their contemporaries) that it took a while for others to catch up. I think about the Astrogirl boots from 2008—Tisci's Shark Lock boots picked up on that shape in what, 2012, and now (after a reissue) they're one of the brand's best-selling shoes (as far as I know). In that sense, I think many of the Hardy/Ghesquiere designs have a sort of indirect relationship with trends/relevance? The propositions are/were distinct enough that they'll always seem both cutting-edge and sort of weird?

 

[marines]

 

[marines]

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Her best drop yet.

 

[Thefrenchy]

It's always very... expected. I'm already bored. As always it sort of looks nice and that's it, no soul, no particular added value.

She's like these pop singers who keep re-releasing their own songs. You only care or buy the album if you're a super fan. If not, you scroll past quickly.

 

[andrew]

Celine (Phoebe's Version)

 

[Thefrenchy]

^ Exactly

 

[tricotineacetat]

Pierre Hardy own shoes have become less spectacular too since he is not working with NG. And between what he does for Hermes and his own brand, he really need that room where he would challenge himself.

That being said, I think even some of the most spectacular shoes they made at Balenciaga wouldn’t be relevant if shown today.

My favorite pair of boots ever comes from their collaboration (from the resort 2012).

The shift he made towards a collection that is more focussed on shoes that are more versatile, daywear-orientedand essential made sense, though, as for a long time, having mostly high heels with strong editorial appeal (designs that would have very well fitted in the frame work of Balenciaga runway shows, like these ones I loved from around 2010) did not resonate with customers - Consequently, you‘ll find more shoes on the mid to low-heeled level that can work with many different aesthetics and styles. The only thing that‘s still a problem is how narrow most of his lasts are cut.

Besides that - And I think this is often being overlooked - Is that he put a lot of energy into his bags collection. The shapes are distinct, well made and decently priced - I‘m surprised they aren‘t enjoying wider popularity!



(Pictures from my own archive)

 

[Lola701]

Besides that - And I think this is often being overlooked - Is that he put a lot of energy into his bags collection. The shapes are distinct, well made and decently priced - I‘m surprised they aren‘t enjoying wider popularity!

No no, it’s good ahaha!
I actually like that it’s not that popular in a big big way and that it has remained fairly small. It’s purely selfish but I love that when I wear PH’s stuff I don’t see it everywhere.

The fact that they opened a store at ST Honore means that things are working well.

But I think Pierre likes it small like that. I like that the quality is consistent and the products are not precious.

I literally always find a reason to shop at PH.

But overall, I think that bags from footwear designer’s brands are generally overlooked. Roger Vivier does great bags, Christian Louboutin has done bags for years (with different types of creative success imo) and even newbies like Amina Muaddi are also not bad with bags.

But I think it’s less of a status symbol.

But then again, I don’t know if the status symbol thing always work even with their shoes. I don’t know what wearing PH shoes says about me. I love Louboutin but only his flat shoes (and Christian himself) so I guess the perception is different to if I wore his heels. The same way I don’t know what wearing Vivier, Russo or Muaddi says either lol.

 

[oioioi]

love the new clean sexy interpretation of the
Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière Iconic SS2003 Scuba show multi straps heels
wish Nicolas LV had more of this now.

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I have a soft spot for these S/S2003 shoes, the sole is so sturdy and comfortable.
I wore them again last week after awhile and although probably no one is wanting to wear them and they debuted over 20 years ago they still feel fresh as a silhouette (at least to me)..

Only thing with Phoebe's ones is I don't get why the straps are so long, I would be worried about them being like a garbage truck and sweeping dog poo along the streets, in the same way it reminds me a bit of the Miu Miu F/W 23 strappy heels.