Pierpaolo Piccioli - Designer, Creative Director of Balenciaga

[LadyJunon]

If one house deserved to be on that chart, it’s Chloé. From the moment Karl left in 1984, it became quite a sh*t show. It’s probably the house that has had the most CD in it existence. 13 designers since 1984 (Karl included).

With the exception of Lagerfeld (18 years combined) and CWK (6 years), Chloé has been unable to keep a CD for more than four years. In hindsight, I'm surprised that the brand is still operational today with that management.

 

[Lola701]

With the exception of Lagerfeld (18 years combined) and CWK (6 years), Chloé has been unable to keep a CD for more than four years. In hindsight, I'm surprised that the brand is still operational today with that management.

I think Karl was 14 years as CD, 25 in total if we count the years he did as head designer under Gaby Agnion.
I think what saved them is that they never really changed from the direction he established during his first 20 years at the brand.

Chloe unlike other brands like Lanvin or Balmain never changed it identity.

And indeed, a lot can be said about Richemont’s management. 10 CD since they bought the brand. I’m still mad that they didn’t gave Paolo enough time, even more considering that they sold the Paraty bag and the Suzanna boots for years!

 

[Scotty]

Wow I can draw a clear line from when things started to go downhill

Is the line 2013?

 

[chalayan]

2013 is literally when all of fashion went to absolute sh*t. to be honest, it's been dire ever since alexander mcqueen died.

 

[theshadedgaze]

I will say 2013 was definitely the death bed year and then 2014 when Vogue put the likes of Kim and Lena on their cover was the real time of death. But perhaps that’s just me not being able to relate or desire for fashion as much as I used to and cutting down on spending. I used to read so many fashion magazines and WWD on a daily basis, I know I spent over $1000 a month on just print media and books. And then at least five times that on clothes and accessories every month.
And just constantly being excited to see the next thing and the next thing and when they started adding the extra seasons and collections it was a huge thrill. Now anytime a collection drops the first thought is “what horrors await me now.” Hopefully that excitement will come back for me. I do like reading all of the comments and discussion here so maybe it’s something.
Speaking of discussion, I remember when at a fashion show you would sit next to someone who you didn’t know and as the show progressed you might hear them comment something like “they shouldn’t have place that dart so high it’s ruining the shape,” or what the fabric composition was from 10 feet away or “that deep chartreuse color definitely compliments the fuschia jacket.” Now when you sit at a show and you get blooped beside some influencer or random customer who only buys because their favorite rapper buys only this designer none of them can tell you what a dart is or what a color is outside of the basic pink and green. Don’t even ask for an intelligent analysis of where the designer’s inspiration is coming from for this season since their knowledge of culture is limited to Disney movies and brain dead music. Alright rant is over and probably doesn’t really belong in this thread but oh well.

 

[PierreGotha]

Balenciaga has been festering since Demna came and stayed far too long.
PPP's appointment feels like a morphine injection—a provisional palate cleanser, after a bitter taste.

At this point, who else can they hire who is willing to work with them?

 

[Kanzai]

I think givenchy is still finding itself. The only time it has had any strong vision was during tisci's era. Even during the founder's tenure, it didn't have such strong codes.

Less Vavavoom edginess, less nonsense streetwear = didn't have such strong codes? Tisci is not a savior of Givenchy, there were Lee and John before him. Since when Tisci has a bigger voice than Hubert?

 

[TaylorBinque]

I don’t think PP is not a great designer. But he’s quite limited. His idea ran out very quickly. Accessories wise, I think it benefited from the years with MGC. But Balenciaga has quite a deep archive, so maybe he will be inspired more. The brand already have quite a list of IT stuff, so he doesn’t really need to reinvent the wheel

 

[tourbillions]

Less Vavavoom edginess, less nonsense streetwear = didn't have such strong codes? Tisci is not a savior of Givenchy, there were Lee and John before him. Since when Tisci has a bigger voice than Hubert?

He was though... givenchy didn't have any strong codes with Hubert. His collections changed every season from the little black dress to something more resort. And one season he would go as you say "vavavoom" with a very edgy and almost balenciaga-esque collection and the next back to something more basic.

Im not sure why you are dismissing the work tisci did at Givenchy. But much like nicholas at balenciaga or karl at Chanel. People's most recent recognition of Givenchy and the givenchy ingrained on people's mind is Tisci's era. Thats not even debatable and not just based on preference.

 

[Lola701]

Less Vavavoom edginess, less nonsense streetwear = didn't have such strong codes? Tisci is not a savior of Givenchy, there were Lee and John before him. Since when Tisci has a bigger voice than Hubert?

I mean, Tisci was a bit of a savior of Givenchy. Not only from a financial point but really in terms of identity.
Givenchy was for a longtime incarnated by the figure of Hubert. Yes his social status, his talent and the connection with Audrey gave an ultimate stamp of « chic » to the name but there was no real codes…
So much so that when John joined the house, he tried to grasp whatever in order to create something recognizable. It failed.
McQueen did some great things but failed too. MacDonald had a different type of complex but failed too.

I don’t think Oswald Boateng really knew what he was doing or was prepared for that position, coming from a tailor to become a CD. He failed too.

Tisci installed Givenchy as a leading fashion voice, which it hasn’t been for a long time. For better or worse, he was the right man at the right time at the right place. He took the right things from Hubert.

Givenchy is beautiful name but I think a lot of designers struggled because « Chic » is not an aesthetic.

 

[tourbillions]

givenchy would not have survived the musical chairs it endured after tisci if he didn't successfully give it such a strong position in fashion. Without his success, im sure givenchy would now be a department store brand like lacroix or karl lagerfeld or maybe would have been sold to the arabs like balmain, cardin, del acqua.

 

[tricotineacetat]

The question with these storied maisons is how much the idea of a very put-together style of dressing, from a time with very different conceptions of a woman’s life, can make sense in the present. Simply putting out LBDs and skirt suits won’t cut it but also forsaking any idea of formality for a wuick cash grab will likely cause harm for houses that have a long legacy to draw from.

I can understand the outrage of Ralph Rucci towards Demna’s vision of Balenciaga since the legacy of Cristobal has a relevance that did not need to be cast aside like that and sometimes, I would have liked to see a bit more of the architectural purity and restraint in Ghesquière'a collections instead of school boy blazers, jodhpurs and cargos with chiffon tops - Yes, those items ended up influential, too, but I feel so far noone really captured the monastic austerity of Cristobal quite successfully yet.

Oddly enough, I could have seen Raf Simons in a similar configuration of a team as he had assembled for Jil Sander to create a beautiful Balenciaga or Givenchy.

 

[Thefrenchy]

I'm absolutely indifferent to this. His official portrait for the announcement had me intrigued though... That space is the Couture salon, non? I guess it's a subtle hint at the turn they want to take.

 

[tourbillions]

Oddly enough, I could have seen Raf Simons in a similar configuration of a team

just before thee announcement i had this in mind. i was thinking how his dior would have fitted really well for balenciaga. And at the same time from his namesake we know he could do street as well. It would have been a good match if he proposed something in between.

 

[PierreGotha]

PPP's Balenciaga will probably have to reposition its customer profile. I don't see PPP continuing Demna's deconstructionist and archetypal approach. Therefore, we will at least get to see more couture-oriented collections. (Gowns, Opera coats, voluminous dresses...etc.) Maybe we'll enjoy his debut and his sophomore collection. Sadly, afterwards, it's going to end up being constant and monotonous. Similar to his Valentino collections.

PPP's biggest opportunity here is producing a good and resonating assortment of leather goods and Accessories.

 

[Lola701]

PPP's Balenciaga will probably have to reposition its customer profile. I don't see PPP continuing Demna's deconstructionist and archetypal approach. Therefore, we will at least get to see more couture-oriented collections. (Gowns, Opera coats, voluminous dresses...etc.) Maybe we'll enjoy his debut and his sophomore collection. Sadly, afterwards, it's going to end up being constant and monotonous. Similar to his Valentino collections.

PPP's biggest opportunity here is producing a good and resonating assortment of leather goods and Accessories.

Or maybe explore in reality what could be his real style and sensibility.

Because, Nicolas Ghesquiere reframed Balenciaga by making it more daywear, more urban. Demna did a version of that and Pierpaolo could possibly do a version of that too.

Valentino in it essence is very formal brand. And PPP and MGC maintained that sort of formality and build out of it.

Valentino is more in danger now with Michele who is doing collabs with Vans and making it looks like a thrift shop Christmas party.

Beyond the commercial success, the job of a designer is as Karl said « make believe ».

 

[RosesAreRed]

I think PPP experties with rockstud go very well with a City bag studs aesthetic, he can do many variations of it.