I have been binge watching Versace shows from the 80s and watching him slowly and gradually move into extreme colors and beading is something, some of the most interesting cutting I've ever seen other than Alexander McQueen that is sexy but also slightly advent grade. Also if you go on YouTube you get to see some of his early couture shows absolutely outrageous the way he slowly pumps up the color and then around 95.96 is slowly starts to tone it all down into extreme sexiness this house has a lot of extreme potential. And Donatella kept it alive
The reality is that the 1992/1995 period had that overwhelming presence that solidified in a way what Versace was for the mass but indeed, Gianni’s repertoire was hugely vast and interesting.
I have looked at his work in the early 80’s and even from the late 70’s. It was very interesting. Gianni’s contribution to fashion is insane!
The drapés and earthy tones of the 80s to the loud and excessive feminity of the early 90’s to a relative conservatism of the late 90’s. He pushed fashion, the limits of taste and more and more. He is as important as Azzedine Alaia but he had the edge of a Gaultier.
I have finally be able to watch his firsts few Couture shows this week and it’s a feast for the eyes. It’s terribly of it time but it’s also so copied today.
Donatella kept it alive, made it evolve but the stopped. It’s weird but each time she referenced instead of interpreting Gianni, it felt like a step back. FW2008 is totally Donatella and Gianni but it’s never a throwback. Even SS2008 that is quite simplistic can be traced back to the 80’s with the drapes and all.
I think the problem with Versace is that it doesn’t know what it is today. And for me the clothes aren’t even the problem.
When we look at Versace under Gianni, the clothes changed, evolved. The models too. The skinny girls from the 80’s/early 90’s became the Vavavoom divas who were then replaced through the post grunge era.
Versace is a certain idea of grown up feminity, of glamour. And maybe the brand needs an outside eye to really give it today.
How profitable was Versace under Donatella? I know a good part of the 2000s decade was spent losing money.
If I remember well, they started to be profitable just before selling to Capri.
What is interesting is that it’s a brand that has always done huge numbers while struggling to be profitable.
Well... currently they are not making these fabulous clothes, not since Carpi bought them. Hence their identity crisis! How can they lost their iconic DNA?
There are only 2 international brands that really scream S-E-X in the loudest way possible, Tom Ford and Versace. Dolce Gabbana is close but they are more glamorous.
If women want other clothes not sexy or frigid b*tch, they can buy Prada, Phoebe or Hedi Celine or whatever.
The problem is not sex or not. Tom Ford is not really my definition of loud sex. It’s louche but the Tom Ford look is a man in a suit and a woman with a blouse with 3 buttons undone.
The problem with Versace is consistency. One season she makes womanly clothes, the next season, she puts her clothes on teenagers. And also a lack of signature. Ok if Versace is THE brand of printed silk shirts, why Casablanca has a more interesting selection? What does a Versace suit, dress or bag looks like 2025.
I love Phoebe Philo. It fits my taste, my age and it has the right amount of sexiness for me. I may not wear it as it is presented but at the end, the product work.
I think it’s also time to address a new way of being sexy. Sexy is something that evolves and also walk that fine line between vulgarity and sexiness in terms of fashion POV.