Prada Menswear S/S 2021 Milan

[Fulton St Critique]

It’s still a fashion show. And casting and set is as much of an important component as the clothes— and in some cases, even more important and what can elevate a collection to legendary status. (Even Margiela’s models with the covered faces was a stylish statement that’s become a signature and not so much a protest statement to further elevate his maverick-status.) If it’s only all about the clothes, then go to the showroom or wait until the stores carry it. Casting and setting matters for a fashion presentation.

(If anything, the current state of the world should push these multi-billion dollar brands to be more creatively innovative in their presentation-- not to par down to such lazy blandness.)

Not at first! Margiela's models wore the masks to remain anonymous so to say. He was known for casting no-name models for this very reason. Yes, I agree that the casting and set are extremely important factors that influence a show.

To your second point, why would I go to a showroom or wait until the clothing is in store? Wouldn't you want to see how it fits and moves on the body? I'd prefer to see a collection on an actual model, I believe most people do. Back to my original point, in the current state that we are in, both from a semi-lockdown position and from an economic standpoint, how do you really expect brands to splurge on sets and such to create a presentation? I enjoyed the 11-minute film showcasing the new season on Prada's website. Was it ground-breaking, not at all. Was it an interesting way to view the clothing, absolutely.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Without getting into specifics, there are other options to the traditional presentation. If Prada is willing to pay me just fair industry-standard rates to head their creative team for such presentations, I could easily conjure up a handful of ideations and concepts that’s both practical and sensitive to the times we’re in and also creatively on-brand to their glorious past shows.

(And yes, I fondly remember when Margiela debuted his shows in the most unconventional setting of abandoned subway stations/suburban warehouses, with a cast of moody unknowns that still possessed of presence and aura— and even dressed in last-minute coats wrangled together from the plastic coatbags with electric tape. And the models’ faces were fully exposed. Covering up their faces really was more of a stylish statement than a serious statement, frankly. But it's very on-brand with his anti-fashion aesthetic.)

 

[GERGIN]

I really like the deep v cut dress on Anok and some of the men’s knits but overall it’s a recession friendly collection, nothing mind blowing (which is ok)

 

[Ruito]

This collection was so clean I could scent the smell of bleach.

 

[Ruito]

I want one of those nylon jackets, do you think they might pass the 1,000$ mark?

 

[Ruito]

I now feel validated for wearing my pyjamas outside.

 

[SophiaVB]

In the PR Juergen refers to this as Miuccia's last collection. Don't think Raf co-designed this.

 

[Lola701]

(And yes, I fondly remember when Margiela debuted his shows in the most unconventional setting of abandoned subway stations/suburban warehouses, with a cast of moody unknowns that still possessed of presence and aura— and even dressed in last-minute coats wrangled together from the plastic coatbags with electric tape. And the models’ faces were fully exposed. Covering up their faces really was more of a stylish statement than a serious statement, frankly. But it's very on-brand with his anti-fashion aesthetic.)

Even if it’s a bit off-topic, I remember that in We Margiela, they said that most of the things Margiela did was a result of him being inventive with No Money. Yes, he worked with Gaultier but he was a « young » independent designer who couldn’t book Glamorous places to show his clothes and therefore, who couldn’t pay the images rights for the models he used. So, he hide their faces, hired anonymous or new, very newcomers (like Kate Moss). Ultimately, at one point it became part of the identity and they played on the anonymous mystique around the brand.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

I would have preferred nothing. It didn't look luxurious. It's like The Gap by Prada. I'm really not happy about seeing sweatpants from Prada. The clothes won't sell anyways, so why not just go for it? If JW could do two collections then Prada has no excuse.

 

[GivenchyAddict]

I don´t see a fashion collection here. I see a merchandise collection from a fashion brand: just generic and basic stuff with logos (of course!).

Is Raf Simons already trying to finish Prada? I don´t know if he was involved in this collection (but it surely looks like it).

Uninteresting and boring as hell and beyond. Miuccia has lost her sense of experimentation and avant-gardism (always in a lite wearable way).

You can almost feel all the market research oozing from all the seams!

Thank you. Nothing to see, nothing to say. A lazy basic collection sugar-coated by pretentious and fake intellectualism. Miuccia lost me again.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I really enjoy the austerity of this and was already guessing this collection was designed with Raf Simons on co-ed duties, in which case it would have been a relief to see him go back to his Jil Sander days. There is a vibe of those early shows here and while one could argue it's maybe a bit too minimal to scream 'luxury', she succeeded to meet the brief she gave herself, that is to make straight forward, uncomplicated clothes that feel refreshing to next to all the frivolous 'fantasy fashion' out there.

About the casting, beauty and background; I think it actually delivers the late-nineties feel of this collection well - There is that vibe of Jil Sander, Helmut Lang, Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane in there that is a welcome change to all of what influenced fashion in the last couple years.

 

[Avonlea]

What a sad and embarrassing way to say goodbye.
Prada has become a parody of itself. Hide the triangle logo and you will get the Zara basics section.
And please stop with the pretentious rambling, it wont make it any better.

 

[Marc10]

Fantastic collection. Trust Miuccia do deliver the right message for current times. No distractions or styling temptations. Just focused, sharp, chic and deliciously minimalist clothes. The video presentation was great too.

Not sure if there's already a little Raf influence there, but this sure feels like a great prologue!

 

[guimon]

The worst Prada collection I have ever seen. It is so basic, boring and uninspiring.

 

[helmutnotdead]

The worst Prada collection I have ever seen. It is so basic, boring and uninspiring.

Have you ever seen Fall Winter 2018? I still have nightmares with that collection.

 

[RaisinBoy]

Fall Winter 2018

Oh yes, my therapist will hear about that one.

 

[Nomar]

Amazing collection! My favourite Prada collection in a long time. I love it and I want all of the menswear. It's all just so timeless, clean and chic, the models all looks fantastic. It might not be anything groundbreaking but these are such classic designs that have been wonderfully executed. A perfect final solo collection by Miuccia!

I'll also take a little triangle logo any day over a big fat logo that's in your face or used repetitively in a pattern.

 

[TaylorBinque]

It's okay. It's beautiful to look at and in comparison to recent Prada collections, this is miles better. But then to think that this is Prada, it feels quite basic. The biggest problem with Prada was that the stuff in the store and the runway didn't match. So now I feel like they are strategically streamlining the runway collections for the stores. Most recent accessories I see people buying from Prada are nylon bags and more simpler designs so this could be the right step. I do miss the fun Prada when there's fine line between being smart and basic.

 

[billiejbob]

Dear lord how embarrassing.
This is really lacklustre.
We've seen this so many times!

 

[entten]

if I wouldnt know its Prada I would think its a COS runway collection