Proenza Schouler F/W 2024.25 New York

[LadyJunon]

 

[GoldenPetals]

Like most of their work, there isn't much to say about this. The basic pieces are the best ones.

 

[LadyJunon]

They've moved onto copying Yohji Yamamoto and Helmut Lang now.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Alquimista]

It looks less overcomplicated than usual

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

It looks more Helmut Lang that what Peter Do just presented!
Decent collection ! I don’t get any message or special vibe though.

 

[Gaultier_Bandit]

So from what I can gather, the last two looks are actual sleeveless, dresses with back cut outs. And they just used them as skirts lol

 

[philophile]

Honestly, people give too little credit to PS than what the brand deserves. I've been reading mockeries of them stating that they are gimmicks of The Row, Jil Sander, etc. Actually, no, the brand is older than The Row and over 20 years old and they have been doing this exact same thing since their beginnings.
While I do not think this is nearly their best collection yet (their best thus far was Fall 2013), I believe each of their of their collections has at least a couple of looks that makes them stand out from the rest of the subversive minimal style bunch.

 

[philophile]

So from what I can gather, the last two looks are actual sleeveless, dresses with back cut outs. And they just used them as skirts lol

I adore the idea of transformable clothing, that's the epitome of forward thinking in a time of climate crisis. I wear my dresses as tops all the time. Why not?

 

[RaisinBoy]

Not Proenza again :-OOOOO
The bleakness of ripping off someone…. be it Phoebe, be it Helmut Lang now.
Tragic

 

[tourbillions]

first collection in new york that atleast attempts to propose fashion.

 

[philophile]

Not Proenza again :-OOOOO
The bleakness of ripping off someone…. be it Phoebe, be it Helmut Lang now.
Tragic

If you're getting there, everyone nowadays rips off Phoebe and Helmut. I don't think PS does, though. They've been doing this even before PP peaked at Céline. Let's face it: HL was a visionary. However, that doesn't mean designers influenced by him are not making steps forward by being influenced by him. Let's please not pretend that, because this is how art has evolved since its primitive era. Influences will always prevail, which doesn't mean the influenced are not creating anything not worth appreciating.

 

[Nimsay]

HL a visionary? He was JPG-lite. Like what? Doing a toned down bondage shirt isnt visionary.

Anyway this collection is pure nonsense. Their last collection looked like something that might sell. Their lack of identity is criminal.

 

[philophile]

HL a visionary? He was JPG-lite. Like what? Doing a toned down bondage shirt isnt visionary.

Anyway this collection is pure nonsense. Their last collection looked like something that might sell. Their lack of identity is criminal.

I'm old enough to 100% assure you that Helmut Lang was long ahead of his time. Every influencer you see nowadays is wearing something similar to what he designed.

I highly doubt PS has a lack of identity, it's just that you probably don't like/appreciate minimal fashion, and that's entirely OK. This is niche fashion, it's not for everyone. PS has been one of the foundation identity brands in contemporary minimalist fashion. And I would know that from 11 years + of incessantly looking and dissecting collections.

 

[perhydrol]

I still think Proenza Schouler would be much more effective and honest at Helmut Lang than Peter Do will ever be. This collection is just fine, and of course there are hints of Phoebe Philo's debut launch but at least these clothes could be actually worn by someone. PS peak when they're into wearable, basic pieces imo and they should just leave all those references to Philo behind.

 

[Nimsay]

I'm old enough to 100% assure you that Helmut Lang was long ahead of his time. Every influencer you see nowadays is wearing something similar to what he designed.

I highly doubt PS has a lack of identity, it's just that you probably don't like/appreciate minimal fashion, and that's entirely OK. This is niche fashion, it's not for everyone. PS has been one of the foundation identity brands in contemporary minimalist fashion. And I would know that from 11 years + of incessantly looking and dissecting collections.

Like what. HLs most famous piece is the hand cuff bracelet - not even clothes. Followed up by his bondage top which I already have from JPG. HL is basically JPG with 90s Minimalism on top. Basically TF doing JPG.

its niche because its unfashionable. None of this is contemporary its actually quite old in its post-modernness.

 

[philophile]

Like what. HLs most famous piece is the hand cuff bracelet - not even clothes. Followed up by his bondage top which I already have from JPG. HL is basically JPG with 90s Minimalism on top. Basically TF doing JPG.

its niche because its unfashionable. None of this is contemporary its actually quite old in its post-modernness.

lol gen Alpha?

 

[Lola701]

The creative journey of those guys must be hell for their clientele. When they started, they were American sportswear, then they became Tom Ford for Gucci, then Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga, then a long Phoebe Philo period and now Helmut Lang…

The good thing is that they are skilled enough to have pieces that are well cut and that falls perfectly!
In a way, doing Helmut Lang brought them back to what I think they are doing best: American sportswear. A good parka, good pants!
Those jeans are fabulous! Very Prada fall 2004 but also very now! I would love to buy that actually!

The worst part of this collection is the usual Phoebe Philo silhouettes we have seen so much since 2018.

It’s a pity that her minimalism has become the Bench mark of minimalism. If you have Helmut Lang on your mood board, don’t add anything Philo in it!

 

[Nimsay]

Im so confused. I thought their identity is clear and doesnt shift randomly.