Proenza Schouler S/S 2016 New York

[Nomar]

This is gorgeous but it does feel very Céline! Still I think it's one of their best collections and the cuts really are everything.

 

[Creative]

Too many references, yeah, but still the best show of the season. It was good. Surprisingly good considering what they've been doing as of late...

 

[Marc10]

Fantastic, as always. Must be the freshest take on Latin/Spanish inspiration in a long time. Love how they made it flirtatious with the ruffles and off-shoulder dresses, and boyish with the suits with the long bow ties. The whole collection had such a rich flow and desirability.

NYFW truly begins and ends with these guys.

 

[Wolkfolk]

There's a bit of Céline, a small touch of J.W Anderson and a serious nod to Balenciaga ( both Cristobal & Nicolas ) but this feels very Proenza to me and it's definitely one of the best collections of the week.

I prefer the end of collection more than the first looks but I really love it. I'm glad they went back to a more subtle and refined glamour apporach instead of the artsy/ experimental thing they've been doing in the in past few seasons.

I love the mix of eroticism and exoticism. The soft YET sensual ruffles, the lacing in the back on the tame looks, the cutouts, the focus on only exposing shoulders, the fishnets.. It seems that all the NY designers went to Spain for inspiration but this also makes think of the singer Sade Adu.

 

[gossiping]

why does everyone think this is like celine? it's way more polished

 

[george5]

From a personal point of view, it's a disappoting collection. I feel like They've been losing their voice the last 3 collections and the results are really cold and tame. I loved the direction they had around 2-3 years ago; when they did the clashing textures, acid color palette and "raw" shapes. Those were strong and energetic collections that really carried their signature style.

 

[dior_couture1245]

^^I wouldn't say there's any direct look-a-like, but the general proportions seem to feel referential to what Phoebe has been doing at Céline recently.

But, in my opinion, unlike Céline, there is never an easy or believability to what Proenza creates. Sure, sometimes it can be stylish or read as "cool," but to me, and especially seen on the sales floor, there is a generally heavy hand and poor fabric selection. They are simply too self serious for my taste. They talk a big talk....their inspirations are always so lofty, obscure and pretentious, but then their work tends to be a pretty one-dimensional, surface level interpretation of said inspiration. There's never any real nuance going on here.

 

[Steddycam91]

I think this is a really strong collection. I surprising really like all the stuff with the bows and don't find it gimmicky or obnoxious, that tiered dress on Issa Lish is wonderful, and the tattered/asymmetrical effect on a lot of the looks is done incredibly well. For me there are a few misses (those super-structured long-sleeved looks so heavy and cumbersome next to the more wonderfully flowing and looser pieces) but overall I find this much better than last season.

I think they are the best at taking influences from European designers but still imbuing their work with a genuine sense of originality and idiosyncrasy, which is something a lot of NYFW designers can never manage to pull off.

 

[disco54]

If I had a dollar for every time a designer references Celine, I would be a billionaire. This collection is no exception.

It reminds me Celine Spring 2012 + Flamenco influence.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FDu0VloNWRc


That being said , this is a very good collection and looks more Paris than NYC .

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

One word, FANTASTIC! They kept the signature but went for the feline, elegant and easy.

 

[Lola701]

I really don't feel them anymore. This collection looks like a mix of Givenchy & FW2015+ Balenciaga resort & spring 2013.
But, because they wanted to make it "cohesive", they went for a focus palette and clean lines.

I really wonder who buys those clothes and who will look good in them.
Their latests efforts are like Raf's Dior: So called innovative but very pretentious clothes, created without a vision of a woman wearing them.

Phoebe Philo or Nicolas, or Riccardo's clothes work in real life. It's not just about the concept and the idea...
I mean, at they end, they will sell jeans, knits separates and bow shirts.

 

[Fiercification]

Their best collection in a long time, even if it gets bogged down by an overload of ideas in the middle section. The beginning is pretty sweet whilst it last...I like that the shapes harken back to F/W 2013, which was their last strong collection prior to this IMO.

 

[Morphe]

I probably am the only one who thinks most of it is ugly as sin.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

the shoulder is underrated.
they rated it!
good job.