I liked it.... for what it is: Instantly, identifiably Givenchy designs. With the jeans line coming, he needs to enforce and confirm the Givenchy brand to a much wider customer-base and this collection seems to be that move to do so.
It's very much an ornate, baroque and culturally-rich send-up of Helmut Lang's template in the styling. And still very much of what we've come to recognize as Riccardo's signature as well. There's something not quite right about that of course-- but it works overall; the styling, the cast, the music, the nod to his own archive. Even the men's here looking blatantly Helmut Lang, fits with the streamlining of the collection for a total look. I mean, his menswear was never his own to begin with; he more or less ripped off Gaultier, from the skirt/ kilt over pant/suit, to the graphic lines, color-palette and mixing of sportswear with piece borrowed from other cultures, down to the casting of a diverse cast of macho, masculine men styled with feminine flourishes.
I think he's at a point where he has a decent archive to revisit and draw from-- and slack off to. And everything looks so Riccardo-for-Givenchy "pretty", I find it hard to dismiss him for not moving to any new fashion levels here. At least I'm glad those awful graphic sweats and tees are nowhere to be seen anymore (at least not in the show).