This spell disaster to me!!
Pucci's new man: Williamson
By Suzy Menkes International Herald Tribune
Matthew Williamson, who will take over as designer at Emilio Pucci, is one of those rare zero to hero stories. Eight years ago, he was a Saint Martins student with silver-screen lounge lizard looks and a penchant for color and joie de vivre in a minimalist world.
He lured his mom, an optician's assistant, and his dad, owner of a television and electrical store, to abandon their jobs in the family's home city of Manchester in order to support the Matthew Williamson label he set up with his partner Joseph Velosa.
With a little help from his best friend, Jade Jagger, who sat front row among the black pants in Indian embroidered Boho skirts, the self-financed label thrived and is now a £7 million, or $12.3 million, a year business employing 25 people. A London shop, opened in 2004, has graphic rugs and a tank of tropical plants to express the fresh colorful spirit which Williamson is now taking to Pucci.
The Italian company's parent, LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, on Monday confirmed Williamson's appointment.
"I have admired Emilio Pucci for as long as I can remember and I am extremely flattered," said Williamson, who goes to the Pucci palazzo in Florence this week to study the archives of the designer, who died in 1992. His colorful swirls on sporty clothes that re-vivified postwar fashion have been kept alive by his daughter Laudomia Pucci and various designers, most recently Christian Lacroix.
"It's the only label I have ever really looked at," says Williamson. "It is always important that there is synergy between designer and house, and he is one of few I feel a link with. I even went to Capri for the weekend and saw the whole lifestyle. I have done my research and feel up to speed with the heritage of the brand."
Williamson says that he and the Marchese Pucci share a design philosophy: "He believed in making women look beautiful in simple pieces of clothing."
How would the British designer describe his own style? He says that the signature of his line is "embroidery and textiles" and calls it "feminine, sexy, decorative and uplifting."
"The most obvious link is color and print," says the designer. "Print is an area I specialized in at Saint Martins on a four-year print and textile course. Technically I feel very confident. I don't feel out of my depth. I feel very excited."
But what about the Pucci heritage as part of historic Italian nobility, with medieval pennants in his background, as well sunny prints for the emerging jet set?
"I am trying to digest what made him what he was - and how Pucci can evolve," says the designer. "I need to take what he was about and apply it to a modern wardrobe."
Celebrities have been drawn to Williamson in his brief career, from Jagger through Gwyneth Paltrow and Sienna Miller. But he insists that he has never courted the famous.
"I don't actively tout for them - it has been a natural organic process," he says. "Sienna is high profile - but she just gets it."
Williamson admits that it is unique in his British generation to have "started with pennies" and progressed so quickly. He pays tribute to Velosa, whom he calls his "backbone." But he says that it is not the classic "suit" versus creator, because "I have a business brain so we work very well together."
That commercial savvy should endear him to Bernard Arnault, president of LVMH, who will be meeting up with his latest recruit for the first time this week, according to Paris sources. Like other LVMH designers, most notably John Galliano at Dior, Williamson will run Pucci and his own label in tandem.
"This is going to absorb my every waking hour," he says of this challenge, which has obliged him to put plans for opening a New York store on hold. "But I am not going to do Pucci half-heartedly. This is a dream come true. The problem is to balance it all."
What about his parents, who did everything from pressing clothes to delivering dresses to help their son? They have retired and gone back to Manchester while Williamson is off to Italy to take his first step: a 14-day crash course in Italian.