This is up there with my favorite shows of the season, but at this point, I have a few issues with it that keep it from being the 100% perfect, every piece to die for collection that I thought it could be when I first saw the pictures last night. Maybe these criticisms can lead into an interesting discussion.
First, I'm not loving the way he mixed the fabrics except in the more casual jackets where just the shoulders/arms are a different material. I believe some examples of this are looks 7, 15 and 16. With others like 26, where it's a classic men's coat in two materials, it's not as effortless as some other examples I've seen this season.
Second, I'm undecided about the way he's blending this line with Jil. The sort of shiny dark blue (If my monitor is accurate) suit (look 5) and various outerwear reminds me of a slightly wilder take on one of my favorite fabrics from FW 06 Jil. Other than being single button, the suit is cut very similarly to one of the best Jil suits from that season (inky blue, almost black with a similar texture up close). I love the look of this new take on the fabric in the outerwear, but for the suit, I prefer the more understated Jil version. And, for strictly selfish reasons, prefered thinking that fabric was a one-off use- just for the single suit. It was one of his favorite pieces from that season, so I guess I shouldn't be surprised that he wants to push it further here.
Along those same lines, there's a coat (20), that, while made of natural fibers, is cut almost identically to a Jil coat from FW06 (ironically look 20 as well). I love the cut. Love the coat. etc. etc., but again, my feelings about bringing modified versions of my favorite Jil pieces are mixed. Clearly this argument could be reversed by mentioning how he used the high necklines from Raf 06 in Jil FW07, but it's still the same issue- whether that blending of the two lines is a positive or negative.
I know I "should" prefer the more attention getting pieces in this collection to the more restrained work he's doing at Jil, but at least this time around, I'm going to have to give Jil the edge. With that, the only faults I could find were with the lack of the hypothetical voluminous coats or something along that line, but as far as the actual clothes that he showed, I'd be more than happy to wear basically every single item. With this collection, there are those somewhat less perfect blends of 2 fabrics. I don't think that I'm just being conservative or leaning toward "safe" clothes. It's just that for me, the Jil collection captures that perfect balance of interesting clothing that I can put to use in real life. And, at least right now, that's enough for me to prefer it.
Enough of the (hopefully) constructive criticism. This is a collection that I'd love to wear- especially the knit in look 37, something like the coat that Diorling posted or looks 17+22 and THOSE GLOVES. I know it's more a runway look than something to carry over into real life. I even had to be reminded of such, but I don't care. I'm completely obsessed by them- especially the extremely high versions. I was pretty near hyperventilating when I first saw them, so if get anything from this collection (unfortunately this depends to a great degree on what LVR and Seven stock), I'd like to put some variation of them at the top of my list.