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Raf Simons | F/W 2002 Menswear
- Thread starter cerfas
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I'm really intrigued by a lot of this. I just keep finding myself wishing that certain things were smaller, although I lot of it I'm totally fine with. Some things look to me like they're supposed to be oversized, which I love; it's a great effect. While other things just look kinda goofy and too big, which I can't stand.
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Yeah, I wonder which collection all the skinny Raf suits faust keeps talking about are in. The proportions here all all so voluminous. Hedi has been consistently slim and skinny since his YSL Rive Gauche days, so I can see how he gets credit for popularizing it: Hedi's vision is so strictly adhered to. Raf, on the other hand, has some wonderful themes he revisits again and again (short outerwear over long being a recurrent one), but he really experiemmtns more with silhouette.AlexN said:
birdofparadise
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A great continuation of the previous season, beautiful outerwear. In hindsight, Raf was certainly a serious contributor to the renaissance menswear is having right this moment.
Almost each and every one of them. It's a staple. They won't always be on the runway, but they will certainly be produced.birdofparadise said:
You think so? Hmm, I tend to think that Raf, despite being successful is always on his own and out of tune with fashion. So, while his success has certainly paralleled the "renaissance", I don't think he has any part of it. Maybe I'm not sure what renaissance you are thinking about. I think menswear has become more sellable because of the metrosexualisation (forgive the term), which came from the late clothing obsession of public in general. Maybe I'm wrong. I would love to hear more from you, though.
birdofparadise
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There certainly has been an attempt by media and certainly by the beauty industry to make a go at what they call metrosexuals, sensing a viable market, trying to make money off the fluidity of sexuality.
Menswear over the past few years should be noted for its slow shrugging off of the overt and in some ways dictated sense of sexuality most markets are trying to capitalize on. It's not a true renaissance in terms of real solid innovation but I don't think innovation is always valid in fashion (there are but so many good ways to make a pair of pants). Most interesting is the infusion of seemingly fresh ideas, a sort of championing of rigor, and real sense of design enshrouded within and respective to a designer's aesthetic.
It's a gauntlet womenswear is trying to pick up on...thus the newfound sobriety of F/W 05.
Simons is certainly part of the upswing because he has always upheld the romanticism of menswear--the idea of god being in the details, a seemingly understated but very complicated execution of tailoring and for his clothes being about the clothes and being about what's going on in the world and not about the wearer's sex life per se. His sensitivity and strive toward modernity set him apart and make his contributions meaningful, particularly in his collections for this season and the next. But it was certainly in those earlier collections where you can see the stepping stones to his current relevance much in the same way that you see the outlines of Slimane's current success at Dior through his undervalued collections for YSL.
Raf very well may be out of tune with fashion...but menswear is slowly but surely taking that very direction itself, developing its own core set of values, if you will, becoming its own monster, trying to seperate itself from the perceived vanity and hunger for unreliable and false senses of security through luxury that womenswear relies on.
Menswear over the past few years should be noted for its slow shrugging off of the overt and in some ways dictated sense of sexuality most markets are trying to capitalize on. It's not a true renaissance in terms of real solid innovation but I don't think innovation is always valid in fashion (there are but so many good ways to make a pair of pants). Most interesting is the infusion of seemingly fresh ideas, a sort of championing of rigor, and real sense of design enshrouded within and respective to a designer's aesthetic.
It's a gauntlet womenswear is trying to pick up on...thus the newfound sobriety of F/W 05.
Simons is certainly part of the upswing because he has always upheld the romanticism of menswear--the idea of god being in the details, a seemingly understated but very complicated execution of tailoring and for his clothes being about the clothes and being about what's going on in the world and not about the wearer's sex life per se. His sensitivity and strive toward modernity set him apart and make his contributions meaningful, particularly in his collections for this season and the next. But it was certainly in those earlier collections where you can see the stepping stones to his current relevance much in the same way that you see the outlines of Slimane's current success at Dior through his undervalued collections for YSL.
Raf very well may be out of tune with fashion...but menswear is slowly but surely taking that very direction itself, developing its own core set of values, if you will, becoming its own monster, trying to seperate itself from the perceived vanity and hunger for unreliable and false senses of security through luxury that womenswear relies on.
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