Raf Simons F/W 09.10 Paris

[Casius]

I would hardly say a suit is avant-garde just because the youth of today chooses not to wear one.
The problem with what is said above (in the NYT article) is that instead of turning the suit into something that might interest the youth of today, Raf made it look like standard brooks brothers (in the first group of photos). The use of a neoprene-like material is interesting but the silhouette created is something that is not at all flattering or beneficial in any way.

It's hard, because his SS08 collection was very ground breaking I thought. The thought of youth getting away from their computers and traveling the world and those were the clothes to do it in. There was function, originality, and I just don't see any of that in this collection. It's a shame really.

 

[haoshcn]

seriously, the first half looks terribly bland (plus I have no idea about those suits/sneakers looks, ironic in such an artificial and predictable way), the second part is just extremely contrived with those over-wrought "edgy", "experimental" pieces. What an ugly collection! It's just full of some of the ugliest looks I've ever seen on runway shows.

Let's be honest, Cathy Horyn is extremely biased with her comments when it comes to her favourites, either fashion designers or public figures (her accolades on Michelle Obama's fashion style is a perfect example). She loves Raf Simons unconditionally and also hates/attacks people like Riccardo Tisci out of no reason.

 

[TraiT]

Agree with Kiddokiddo! I went "WTH?!" while scrolling through the first post!

I agree partially with ilaughead about the pattern of raf being interesting for spring and boring for fall.
His fall collection, yes, might have more suits than the spring collections, but I thought that shouldn't be a factor of labeling him straight as being boring for fall.
To me at least, I don think this is boring. similar to his jil sander collection, but still captivating.

 

[FELNWER]

how depressing

 

[margielamike2004]

As far as Raf Simon's past collection's for Fall..this has to be the biggest disappointment from him that I've ever seen.

I'm not sure if he played the "safe-card" considering the condition of the shaky economy..but for me, the only word that comes to mind when fiewing this collection is "safe".

What I've always liked about Raf was his unpredictability. Granted, this collection was also very non-predictable, but not done in an interesting or innovative way. The presentation looks a bit too standard and boring for a Raf collection...even the footwear is very disappointing.

It seems as though Raf were trying to pleasea mass audience, in a very conservative way. Aside from the fine tailoring, the pieces look like something anyone could buy at Banana Republic. Nothing in this collection takes any bravery to wear..the collection doesn't have any story to tell, and bluntly speaking, it's a bit too watered-down to be a Raf Simons collection. Most (if not all) of his previous collections certainly "stood-out" from the rest...this collection blends into the background with everything else, with a boring note.

Even the choice of fabrics is very bland, regardless of his use of neoprene..to me, the concept is a bit too high-tech...and dare I say, very vintage Prada.

His fabrics for Fall a few seasons ago were incredibly more interesting, as well as his fit and silouette. Heavy tweeds for drainpipe trousers...those were amazing!!!...Those heavy, chunky creeper/platform shoes were insanely fabulous...the color palette was phenominal...the knite were bold and daring, etc etc. This collection leaves me wanting more....but not in a good way....moreorless wanting more, in hopes that something interesting might appear. Raf Simons does Wall-Street....eccch, gimme a break!!??

Considering the state of the economy...perhaps he presented this collection for all those wall-street bankers and brokers with tons of money in their pockets to spend???...hahaha!!!

 

[gius]

this is the type of ugly imperfections i cherish so much. and these were the beautiful ugly imperfections (if that makes any sense). such a strange way of translating human proportions felt so... unexpected yet very modern (and continues his work for Sander this season). i loved the mix of colors and 'elements' during the show, which created this cinematic illusion of transformation of these clothes from one look to another.
it takes time to completely understand what Raf Simons is about. this time it's no exception.

the collection good or not will definitely have an impact in what we'll see for future seasons .. the idea is very strong

emphasis on shoulders
in menswear

-

i thought there was a sort of transformation too. the sleeves are removable, replaceable and/or could be used to further style a look/gament

 

[Scott]

just thinking....such a terrible homage to klaus nomi. pretty bland for raf! and that is saying something.

 

[Zazie]

A mix of very well-cut, wearable, conservative suits in the first few looks and some experimental ensembles, which I'm afraid don't quite work.

 

[helmut.newton]

Letdown of the season!! Right after Jil Sander that is! I'm not liking Raf's work this season! It's stale and uninspired, no?

 

[4n98]

omg，I love it so much！！！！！！
conservative is really back！

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

I'm so disappointed, there's no energy in this collection, it is well tailored but it's too classic and that's not what we expect from Raf Simons, right ?

I miss the young spirit of his best collection, and the Balenciaga rounded shoulders at Jil Sander and now here, it's too much...

Hope the next collection'll be better

 

[visconti]

No. This reminds me of my initial reaction to McQueen S/S 2008. It's like he's playing a practical joke. I get the joke, but I have absolutely no desire to finance the gag. I saw some blurb about Raf moving his production. Maybe he has, and maybe this suiting celebrates a real ability to finally produce very well made garments, but if the construction of suiting from the 2008 collections is any indication, there's no way people will be buying this. The customer for these suits expects certain sartorial details that, at least thus far, Raf's own line fails to provide. He needs Jil Sander production for "nice suits". You buy his line for the design and deal with the lack of french seams or the foam in the shoulders or the flimsy collars because you can't get certain ideas anywhere else. When you want a suit like this you go somewhere that values construction over innovative design. No one will be converted to Raf because of these suits. He'll only only alienate his fans.

The first 1/4 to 1/3 of the show seems like a the setup for a joke. Like he'll really deconstruct the archetypal male uniform. But then all he gives us are the neoprene sleeves. These are fine, but then there's nothing else. Another problem lies in the lack of an interesting middle ground. You either play it straight or go with something that works more as a collector's item than working part of the wardrobe. Neither option very desirable. He'd better be careful. Most of his stuff sold very late in the sale season at the local Barneys and, based on a recent visit, there's no sign of his S/S 09, but they've picked up some Demeulemeester in his old haunts. maybe its a late shipment, but this does little to instill future confidence.

 

[JordanB]

I love Raf but wow... I am majorly disappointed...
There are a few interesting pieces.. and by interesting that doesn't necessarily mean that I like it... but besides those.. everything is so boring. Perhaps this has to do with the fall of the economy? Forced to create pieces that will be more likely to sell.

 

[BerlinRocks]

this is pretty generic in general ....
economic crisis ?! i guess but as pointed by visconti i'm not sure it will bring external customers to buy it .......
and then there are these "experemintal" items which seem to be here like from out of nowhere just to please the usual raf's customer .... this is especially obvious with the sneakers ....

the body type seem to have change though ....
i wonder if for once i can get inside these stuff without feeling tooo fat ....

 

[Dkammern]

when i saw the first images i liked the mature, even if a bit boring, approach of the severe and conservative tailoring.
then i liked it even more when we started seeing the young-raf-side coming through, with the so-called experimentation.
i've had trouble this season seeing suits and coats that i like, or that i'd wear. and here, dare i say for the first time, i find something that looks comfortable, with perfect fit, well balanced, and not too trendy for the most part.
there are of course the show pieces, too keep in mind that there's a lot yet to do in the menswear arena (even if none of use dares to wear it yet).
if i have to see experimentation on a menswear runway, i'd rather see this than the sequinned cuissardes chez Givenchy

 

[jhaime]

Raf, is officially AWOL.

If you find him, please return him to reality.

Does he have too much on his mind? or has he reached an age or been submerged for too long in all that is wrong with the industry? *cough* milan.

I think it's fair to say & everybody has known it for some 4/5 seasons, that Raf Simons mainline has reached a crossroads. Either he walks away from it all, or breaks everything down, relents from selling out & gets back to basics, otherwise it's goodnight Raf. Vendors will only stick by him for so long, before this over-priced crap is only available through Italian suit stores.

If slapping Fuchsia sleeves on a terribly cut suit is 'ahead of the curve' then i'm glad we're in a recession... seriously, whatever graduate intern suggested that should be stoned!!!

I think Raf Simons needs to look in the mirror & ask himself the question, do I want to do this anymore...

anybody loving this collection is surely over 30, closer to 40???

 

[Deleted member 7575]

This is classic Raf, a subversion of sartorial standards, a small dose of youth culture/furturism, and an aggressive move on shape and proportion. Agree with Gius, whether this is good or bad it's influential.

I love it, but Raf, only white boys again?

 

[BerlinRocks]

^i'm sorry about this last comment .... but Raf is one of the rare person who often cast black models ...........

 

[Deleted member 7575]

^i'm sorry about this last comment .... but Raf is one of the rare person who often cast black models ...........

Yeah, and this is third season without doing so.

 

[Crying Diamonds]

Some nice suits.
The sleeve jackets are hid though.