Raf Simons Leaving Christian Dior; Maria Chiuri Rumored In

[Dutchhie]

I just think Calvin is such a step down for him..... Why wouldn't he just start up his own womenswears along with his men's....

 

[rip_ian curtis]

I just think Calvin is such a step down for him..... Why wouldn't he just start up his own womenswears along with his men's....

It can be because he has the desire to design and direct something that's not his own. Or then it might be about finances, maybe his own label doesn't make the money he wants to have to fund all that art collecting and houses. It's also a big investment to start another line within an existing company.

After all his complaining about the amount of product and collections he had to make at Dior, I still don't understand how CK would be any more desirable to him after that experience, as it will be as big of a job. I just have the feeling that in the end he didn't care so much about the Dior aesthetic and product as he had initially thought he would, and that's why the job became unbearable to him. Maybe he feels more relation towards CK and thinks that is more interesting thing to go for.

 

[Pricciao]

Because he likes the contrast in between tasks, and to not stay in the same situation on the daily basis. He explained about it here at 1:20.

 

[Benn98]

After all his complaining about the amount of product and collections he had to make at Dior, I still don't understand how CK would be any more desirable to him after that experience, as it will be as big of a job. I just have the feeling that in the end he didn't care so much about the Dior aesthetic and product as he had initially thought he would, and that's why the job became unbearable to him. Maybe he feels more relation towards CK and thinks that is more interesting thing to go for.

I've always believed the cause behind his 'exhaustion' was trying to set a tone, pleasing his employers and Galliano's customers, and proving the critics wrong at the same time. So the pressure is external as opposed to internal. When you face such fierce criticism it's only human nature to overthink the smallest element, and that's where exhaustion sets in because you spend more time conceiving a single piece. With CK, I don't think it will be the same. He's walking into this armed with a great deal of prestige now - a designer from Dior! Can you imagine? He'll be afforded more liberties than ever, I think. Costa and Zucchelli, while effective, isn't exactly leaving the brand with a legacy, so he's got verrry little to housecleaning to do. And because his style is already closely related to that of CK, I think the adjustment will be seamless. The CK client will easily warm to him, I'm sure. I just hope that part of his problems at Dior wasn't the suits perpetually hovering over his shoulder with a spreadsheet, because that's not something he'll escape at CK. They're situated in the hub of capitalism, after all.

 

[fashionista-ta]

It can be because he has the desire to design and direct something that's not his own. Or then it might be about finances, maybe his own label doesn't make the money he wants to have to fund all that art collecting and houses. It's also a big investment to start another line within an existing company.

After all his complaining about the amount of product and collections he had to make at Dior, I still don't understand how CK would be any more desirable to him after that experience, as it will be as big of a job. I just have the feeling that in the end he didn't care so much about the Dior aesthetic and product as he had initially thought he would, and that's why the job became unbearable to him. Maybe he feels more relation towards CK and thinks that is more interesting thing to go for.

It's a smaller company and no couture, yes? So a very different deal.

 

[whitewine82]

I think that he is perfect for the job, I can't think anyone more "clinical" than him.

 

[tatouejeremie]

It's a smaller company and no couture, yes? So a very different deal.

it was 6 collections at dior vs 12 collections at calvin klein, he was complaining at dior about not having the time to develop the collections and he's going to have even less of that at calvin klein.

on top of that he'll also be involved in the image building of calvin klein. he'll probably have triple the amount of work.

he shouldn't have complained about the work pressure because it clearly wasn't what he was struggling with there, it was just an awful match and i'm sure it was exhausting for him to create stuff in the spirit of someone he didn't really connect with.

 

[anlabe32]

Where do you get those 12 CK collections from?

And the two houses are incomparable. Like others have explained, Dior is based on the loyal clientele and the huge archives of the house. I doubt there's much of an archive at CK. Also, his work at Jil Sander was very comparable to what CK stands for. So basically, he's in his comfort zone at CK and therefore designing many collections will feel less of a burden than at Dior where he was constantly being criticized on how completely different his designs where when compared to his predecessors. That alone probably made the Dior job feel much more complicated than designing for CK or Jil Sander, whether there were more or less collections a year.

Also I think his task at CK will be to incorporate all the CK lines (Collection, ck, White Label, Jeans etc..) into one brand with a large price range.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ That does seem to be the trend, to merge everything ... but I doubt the head designer has ever been hands-on on all of that. Probably someone else designs (that may not be the word ...) the underwear and the sheets and the jeans ...

 

[mikose]

Most of ck's profit is come from underwear and jean.They used calvin klein collection to expand the brand.it wasn't working on women line.under Mr calvin Klein time,calvin klein was sexual,controversy, but sensually and elegant at same time.
And now this brand has lost that balances.
Raf need to build and keep
that thing again.

 

[Lola701]

I really think that Raf will be perfect for the job. The thing is that his work for Dior & Jil Sander kept him away from 2 very important component of his identity as a designer: the street and youth.
As a respected menswear designer, his work at Jil Sander mens was amazing and above all, he had that authority and confidence to make us believe that it was pure Jil Sander style.
I Expect his menswear at Ck to be similar to what he did at JS.

His work at CK IMO will be more in tune with his personal aesthetic. With his own house, he worked with Adidas, Fred Perry, Eastpack...So, he know one or two things about what young people wants.

It will not be difficult to merge all the brands. All Ck's products are kinda similar and he is used to work with an army of designer.

I believe he will set his studio in Europe but i wonder where he will show: Milan, Paris or NYC.
He has this powerful position right now. He is a high profile designer and can do an "Hedi" and turn the house upside-down.

 

[fashionista-ta]

I don't think he will do a Hedi though ... I would actually be pleased if no one did a Hedi ever again I agree he's a good fit for the house, and therefore no need for that. I found nothing wrong with his work for Dior, but he will be in his wheelhouse at CK.

 

[Steddycam91]

LOL imagine if after all this talk, Raf doesn't even go to CK

 

[YohjiAddict]

I think Milan will be the chosen city for the show:
1) The way I see it location was a key factor in the success of his Jil Sander, Jil quickly became synonimous with a taste and elegance that stood out against the tackiness that reigned in Milan. That leads me to believe that, if he gets his way, he will choose Milan for the show
2) Paris is more or less the city for designers that know how to "play the game" and judging by his CD years that's far from being his forté.
3)Hype around NYFW fades more with each passing season and changing location would emphasize that this is the start of a new era for CK.

 

[Benn98]

I think Milan will be the chosen city for the show:
1) The way I see it location was a key factor in the success of his Jil Sander, Jil quickly became synonimous with a taste and elegance that stood out against the tackiness that reigned in Milan. That leads me to believe that, if he gets his way, he will choose Milan for the show
2) Paris is more or less the city for designers that know how to "play the game" and judging by his CD years that's far from being his forté.
3)Hype around NYFW fades more with each passing season and changing location would emphasize that this is the start of a new era for CK.

I don't think this will ever happen. The men's line is already in Milan, to move the women's there as well? Don't think it will be wise. CK is as synonymous with NYFW as Ralph Lauren. Anyway, Anna Wintour, the champion of American fashion, probably won't back such a move.

Maybe CK's choice to continue showing in NY with Raf will rejuvenate the fading hype?

 

[dsamg]

https://i-d.vice.com/en_gb/article/raf-simons-set-to-be-named-new-head-of-calvin-klein-this-week

 

[gazebo]

I think Milan will be the chosen city for the show:
1) The way I see it location was a key factor in the success of his Jil Sander, Jil quickly became synonimous with a taste and elegance that stood out against the tackiness that reigned in Milan. That leads me to believe that, if he gets his way, he will choose Milan for the show
2) Paris is more or less the city for designers that know how to "play the game" and judging by his CD years that's far from being his forté.
3)Hype around NYFW fades more with each passing season and changing location would emphasize that this is the start of a new era for CK.

I actually think he will try to make New-York great again!