Raf Simons, Stuart Vevers, Monse Win CFDA Awards
Simons is the first designer to win both awards in a single year since Calvin Klein in 1993.
By Jessica Iredale on June 5, 2017
NEW YORK — The winners of the 2017 CFDA Fashion Awards were revealed Monday night at the Hammerstein Ballroom here, and Raf Simons took home the most prizes.
After a mere one season at the helm of Calvin Klein, the Belgian-born designer took home dual awards for Womenswear Designer of the Year and Menswear Designer of the Year. Calvin Klein himself was the only other designer to receive both honors the same year in 1993.
Meanwhile, the Accessory Designer of the Year prize went to another foreign-born designer: The British-born Stuart Vevers for Coach. The Swarovski Award for Emerging Talent went to Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia for Monse.
Simons was officially named creative director of all of Calvin Klein’s brands last August after a year’s speculation that he was headed to the iconic American fashion house after a successful stint at Christian Dior.
He immediately put his stamp on the house in his first show in February. As WWD’s Bridget Foley wrote in her view, the show “thrilled with its smart, powerful clothes for women and men. Everything surrounding the clothes — the 10 a.m. time slot; the location, at the brand’s longtime West 39th Street headquarters in the former Garment District — telegraphed a message of efficiency and pragmatism that plays into the reevaluation and restraint that’s percolating but has yet to triumph across fashion’s show spectrum.”
Vevers, meanwhile, has also put his signature on Coach, turning the brand around with a mix of Americana and whimsy that now stretches from the accessories and clothes to the stores and such tie-ups as a recent collaboration with Selena Gomez.
Kim and Garcia have had a rapid rise with Monse, which catapulted them to becoming co-creative directors at Oscar de la Renta. The de la Renta company also has taken a significant minority stake in the Monse brand and the designers showed both labels together in New York in February.
After presenting three collections at New York Fashion Week: Men’s, Raf Simons is moving his show back to Paris’s Men’s Fashion Week. The brand’s Spring 2019 collection will be shown at 9:30 p.m. on June 20, the second official day of the Paris calendar. It’s a big day: Already on the schedule that Wednesday are Off-White, Simons’s fellow Belgian Walter Van Beirendonck, Valentino, and Undercover.
Simons’s move back to Paris comes in the middle of a French fashion renaissance. Just yesterday, Gucci announced that it would be showing in Paris for one season, and starting today, a trifecta of high-profile Resort 2019 shows from Dior, Louis Vuitton, and Gucci are kicking off throughout France. Amid an exodus of mid-career designers from New York to Paris, Simons was a welcome addition to the American calendar. As of now, all signs say that he will continue to present Calvin Klein stateside.
Simons has shown his menswear collection during the Paris Men’s shows since its inception, taking the occasional seasonal jaunt elsewhere. He’s shown at Pitti Uomo twice. His studio team remains in Antwerp, Belgium. With that in mind, his return to Paris is likely both a logistical one and personal choice.