Raf Simons Mens S/S 10 Paris | Page 2 | the Fashion Spot

Raf Simons Mens S/S 10 Paris

review from men.style.com:

June 26, 2009
Free-associate on this: The audience for Raf Simons' show was sitting in a beautiful garden, looking at a snake—or at least a snake printed on a pair of jeans. And, come to think of it, the belts woven around the bodies of the besuited Adams who had walked earlier were also serpentine, as was the logo on the backside of the jeans some of them wore, with the snake coiling in an S shape around an R. Raf Simons? A logo? Surely that's original sin in Raf-world. Yes, but now he wants his share of God's little acre. "Our first decade is done," he said at show's end. "We need a new man." So his presentation was a manifesto for Raf Simons: The Second Decade. It was impressively mature—and significantly commercial.

Simons insisted he was tired of the teenage-guru trip he's been lumbered with. He was after the kind of customer who'll wear his immaculately tailored suits in an impressive range of options, and hopefully top them with the stunning leather coats on display. "We're targeting a high-fashion man," Simons said with winning "directness. But he also seemed to feel that such an individual would prefer the luxe sobriety of those suits and coats to be embellished by proximity to high-fashion hybrids like a knit top with a single-vented cloth back, or a knit torso with cloth jacket shoulders, or a jacket whose sleeves were slashed open like something from the Renaissance. Among other pieces of pensively opulent music, Michel Gaubert tracked the show to György Ligeti's "Musica Ricercata," the sound of obsession in Kubrick's Eyes Wide Shut. "High fashion is an addiction," said Simons. He just gave us our fix. And the snake made him do it.
— Tim Blanks
 
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raf simons is right , a new look is need , and he accomplished that with this collection.
 
I died...from boredom.
It is for old men, not me. What "new look" is there to speak of when every middle of the road sentier has this kind of 90's suit still kicking around in backrooms.
Sell out? Indeed.
The only exciting thing is the styling and that is simply a gimmick with the snaking.
The collection veers from RIGOR MORTIS dullness to the ridiculous, sometimes in the same outfit. The shoes are so non-descript as to not merit mention.
Sorely dissapointed.
 
I do wonder if the clothes will come with belts like that or is it just a styling trick?

I was gonna say that! You've stolen most of my post !

I am loving this - the two zip pieces are a bit completely random . . but I do love it all.
Simons has a way of keeping it beautifully traditional but just twisting it so it isn't dull. Love him.
Good collection.
 
not his best work. i don't understand what was so immature about his last couple collections....and i certainly don't understand why being experimental is only for young people?? i don't care for this kind of direction....it's too safe and it doesn't have the same spirit to me.
 
Yawn.

So boring and plain.
Love the whole belt wrapping though.
 
didn't like the collection... at all. was expecting something youthful from raf but what we get instead was clothes for the oldies - not that anything's wrong with that.
 
gotta love it when a designer this cerebral does a commercial collection for the fashion dilettantes out there. i pray that someone in the public eye adopts this belt-over-blazer look because it's really a flattering silhouette for most body types and menswear really needs a new unifying look in the absence of dior homme.

in the big shoulders and the belted leather, it reminds me of fall/winter prada for women in a wonderful way.
 
I don't like it to be honest...I think is very rich in detail, the belts, the mixed fabrics, the dots¿? in some outfits, and the shoulder shape is killing me..really with the cuts at the middle of the show...

but I had hope for something more summery, the earth is heating up designers not getting any colder...and I really miss the younger feeling of his past collections...this is a statement about the end of the skinny era, his young era...at least for Raf, and as he and his brand gets older I guess he wants to attract more mature clientele, and sadly I don't think he will, only some suits and coats would be coveted by the kind of client he's pointing to, appart from the clasic shirts and trousers you find everywhere... the belted shape is not flatterin at all for all body types, you need the perfect triangular chest/waist to pull it off...

I think I leave the Raf train here...not even his Raf by Raf line is exiting for me anymore...
 
Please look at the men's current.
old dior homme dead.
The need for a new era of what kind of man?
Why do you always settle in the sad memories?
Why? Cry in soul
Raf simons, Maybe.
but, Saw him today I am really very happy!!
 
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The belts? What a cheap ploy, Raf...
Very disappointing, but then again, this has been a stale season so far..
 

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