Raf Simons sends out his futuristic gladiators
By Suzy Menkes International Herald Tribune
MONDAY, JUNE 27, 2005
FLORENCE Like futuristic versions of the classical statues dotting the Boboli Gardens, the figures lined up - dressed in plaster white, stone gray and black. The graphic vision stretched across a grassy terrace, illuminated by the mid-summer sunset, as David Bowie's music extolled: "We can be heroes, just for one day."
The models at the Raf Simons show could have been Roman warriors, with their gladiator sneakers creating a lattice for the legs and their roomy tunics in bold mesh. And after the Belgian designer had taken his brief bow from the top of ancient stone steps, he cited Fellini's piquant 1969 movie "Satyricon" about ancient Rome as his inspiration.
A beaming Patrizio Bertelli, chief executive officer of the Prada group, overcame the Flemish/Italian language barrier to congratulate his new protégé, whom he has tapped to design for Jil Sander.
"For a brand, it is essential to have a point of view," said Bertelli, referring to Simons's strong focus. "It is not a question of going back to minimalism at Jil Sander. And I am not fanatical about him knowing how to design an evening dress. We need to have a clear intention and pride in leadership."
Simons expressed all that in the spectacular event staged as the climax to the Pitti Uomo men's fair and its ancillary activities in Florence last week. A display of 167 video screens in the classic orangerie celebrated the designer's first ten years and proved - as does the accompanying "Raf Simons Redux" book - just how clear and graphic his menswear vision was from the outset.
The show itself, set in the rural Renaissance idyll rather than the more familiar urban modernism, was not as strong as the previous two seasons - mostly because the powerful sportswear was set off with new explorations in tailoring that looked tentative rather than razor-sharp. Suits with short, square jackets, although part of a current trend, and coats gathered at the back, were less rigorous that Simons's signature look.
Yet the use of techno fabrics, the varied mesh effects, the intriguing layering and the laser-sharp pants, often rising high at the midriff, made exceptional pieces. They included a beige raincoat and a white tailored coat with narrow oyster pants.
"It was interesting for me to show in an Italian garden using very high tech fabrics - I wanted it to be futuristic and surreal," said Simons, who proved with this show that he is one of the strong fashion forces in the current millennium.
As for how he will cope with a new role as women's designer for the Jil Sander label, where he debuts in January 2006, Simons gave his guests a preview. Sitting at dinner round a miniature lake, with an island of lemon trees and an illuminated ball of a moon glowing overhead, was Simons's mother, Alda, wearing his first female creation: a long black skirt and lattice top.
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. most of the collection is up on modaonline.it already..i'll post it for you 
