birdofparadise
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Raf Simons, S/S 2006
- Thread starter tricotineacetat
- Start date
The only thing I truly dislike here are the 'grid' shirts...but I adore the proportions of the pants the detail bottom right in #46! Love this in combination with the sandals and eyelet knits (not on bare skin though) This is probably my favorite mens collection so far...
the detail bottom right in #46! Love this in combination with the sandals and eyelet knits (not on bare skin though) This is probably my favorite mens collection so far...From the New York Times
June 30, 2005
Insider's Insider, Poised to Rule a Greater Empire
By CATHY HORYN
Florence, Italy
THE invitation to Raf Simons's spring fashion show and 10-year retrospective in the Boboli Gardens June 24 advised guests not to wear high heels. Of course some did anyway and hiked up the dry hills, slippery with pebbles and burning in sunset.
Mr. Simons is a northerner, from Belgium, and as he once said: "We're not so joie de vivre. We're not Dolce & Gabbana." He has managed, though, in a Dolce world, to devote himself to a single ideal: detailing the fervent preoccupations of youth.
He isn't widely known, though this is certain to change now that he has been hired to design the Jil Sander women's line. But he is considered the ultimate insider's insider, someone who has expressed the values of a generation in a realistic way. For this reason the Pitti Immagine Discovery Foundation gave him a retrospective at the age of 38.
Aside from influencing the look of the 90's with his skinny suits, Mr. Simons has insisted on using fashion in broader ways. In a video presentation of his spring 1997 collection, called "16, 17, How to Talk to Your Teen," Mr. Simons showed a group of Antwerp teenagers smoking, skating and generally blowing off responsibility. Other shows have projected a grimmer reality, like "Riot, Riot, Riot," in January 2001, in which the models, their faces hidden by hoods and scarves, looked as though they were anticipating an urban war.
Behind the scarves, however, were real men, not modeling agency boys. At the outset of his career, Mr. Simons cast his models from the street and open calls. And they have stayed with him, season after season, like the much-tattooed Robbie Snelders, who serves as Mr. Simons's principal agitator and muse. They lend a feeling of brotherhood to his efforts but also, in the shows, a stark visual line.
It is not for nothing that the retrospective, done with the help of Peter de Potter, a journalist, consists of 176 video monitors arranged in a long, shimmering line.
A body of work based on the lives of young men, from a country as small as Belgium, and in an era when everything seems a little slippery, might be of limited interest. But if there is a more vigilant designer, it is hard to think who that would be. Mr. Simons has always been more concerned with getting it right than with being famous or scoring points with editors. Though he does that pretty well, too.
Last month he was named creative director of Jil Sander and will present his first collection for that label early in 2006. Among the people who made the climb up the hill last Friday evening to see Mr. Simons's show for his own label was Patrizio Bertelli, the chief executive of Prada, owner of the Sander company. He had on a cream linen suit and moccasins without socks and was accompanied by several Prada executives dressed in black suits.
Mr. Simons presented his spring 2006 collection in the natural amphitheater formed by the grassy terraces that surround the Neptune Fountain. The models started their procession at the top of a flight of stone steps, and even at that great distance the more eagle-eyed of the editors could see what they wanted: Roman sandals made of rough brown leather that finished at the ankles in a twist of metallic gold straps. There was also a sneaker version.
In that setting it was hard not to think of Roman warriors arriving in a column, without the spears but handsomely dressed in soft white shorts and lattice-cut tops. And in lieu of senatorial robes, there were loose coats in graphite linen, some with sheer panels, and wide trousers cut high on the small waists of the models.
But while Mr. Simons cited Fellini's "Satyricon" as a reference, he also said he was thinking of things he had made over the last decade, and this jibes with the pattern of the last few seasons, slowly to evolve a look. For instance the lattice tops are similar to a handmade style he did in the 90's; now they are cut with a laser. The high-waisted pants are an idea from his January show, but now, separated from a jacket and shown with a minimal top, you can see how they would appeal to a cool guy (or girl). And those linen coats may recall the 80's of Yohji Yamamoto, but they also a recall a style, in camping plastic, that Mr. Simons showed in 2002.
The message this season is volume and more sophisticated fabrics, which will be essential at Jil Sander. If the show had a fault, it was the diminishing effect on the beautiful clothes of all that Medici scenery.
Backstage, as Mr. Simons hydrated himself from a liter of Coca-Cola, Mr. Bertelli stood off to the side. He looked pleased. He was eating a pear, slicing off chunks with a knife, and when he had finished, one of the Prada executives splashed Mr. Bertelli's hands with water from a bottle. He shook them dry.
When asked what he thought of Mr. Simons as a designer, he joked that he - Mr. Bertelli - would probably be complimented for hiring him at Sander. This was a reference to criticism about his previous hires.
When asked what he thought of Mr. Simons as a man, Mr. Bertelli grew serious. "He's thoughtful," he said. "You can see he was not born in the fashion world. He has all the characteristics of a person who is mature, who is used to working."
June 30, 2005
Insider's Insider, Poised to Rule a Greater Empire
By CATHY HORYN
Florence, Italy
THE invitation to Raf Simons's spring fashion show and 10-year retrospective in the Boboli Gardens June 24 advised guests not to wear high heels. Of course some did anyway and hiked up the dry hills, slippery with pebbles and burning in sunset.
Mr. Simons is a northerner, from Belgium, and as he once said: "We're not so joie de vivre. We're not Dolce & Gabbana." He has managed, though, in a Dolce world, to devote himself to a single ideal: detailing the fervent preoccupations of youth.
He isn't widely known, though this is certain to change now that he has been hired to design the Jil Sander women's line. But he is considered the ultimate insider's insider, someone who has expressed the values of a generation in a realistic way. For this reason the Pitti Immagine Discovery Foundation gave him a retrospective at the age of 38.
Aside from influencing the look of the 90's with his skinny suits, Mr. Simons has insisted on using fashion in broader ways. In a video presentation of his spring 1997 collection, called "16, 17, How to Talk to Your Teen," Mr. Simons showed a group of Antwerp teenagers smoking, skating and generally blowing off responsibility. Other shows have projected a grimmer reality, like "Riot, Riot, Riot," in January 2001, in which the models, their faces hidden by hoods and scarves, looked as though they were anticipating an urban war.
Behind the scarves, however, were real men, not modeling agency boys. At the outset of his career, Mr. Simons cast his models from the street and open calls. And they have stayed with him, season after season, like the much-tattooed Robbie Snelders, who serves as Mr. Simons's principal agitator and muse. They lend a feeling of brotherhood to his efforts but also, in the shows, a stark visual line.
It is not for nothing that the retrospective, done with the help of Peter de Potter, a journalist, consists of 176 video monitors arranged in a long, shimmering line.
A body of work based on the lives of young men, from a country as small as Belgium, and in an era when everything seems a little slippery, might be of limited interest. But if there is a more vigilant designer, it is hard to think who that would be. Mr. Simons has always been more concerned with getting it right than with being famous or scoring points with editors. Though he does that pretty well, too.
Last month he was named creative director of Jil Sander and will present his first collection for that label early in 2006. Among the people who made the climb up the hill last Friday evening to see Mr. Simons's show for his own label was Patrizio Bertelli, the chief executive of Prada, owner of the Sander company. He had on a cream linen suit and moccasins without socks and was accompanied by several Prada executives dressed in black suits.
Mr. Simons presented his spring 2006 collection in the natural amphitheater formed by the grassy terraces that surround the Neptune Fountain. The models started their procession at the top of a flight of stone steps, and even at that great distance the more eagle-eyed of the editors could see what they wanted: Roman sandals made of rough brown leather that finished at the ankles in a twist of metallic gold straps. There was also a sneaker version.
In that setting it was hard not to think of Roman warriors arriving in a column, without the spears but handsomely dressed in soft white shorts and lattice-cut tops. And in lieu of senatorial robes, there were loose coats in graphite linen, some with sheer panels, and wide trousers cut high on the small waists of the models.
But while Mr. Simons cited Fellini's "Satyricon" as a reference, he also said he was thinking of things he had made over the last decade, and this jibes with the pattern of the last few seasons, slowly to evolve a look. For instance the lattice tops are similar to a handmade style he did in the 90's; now they are cut with a laser. The high-waisted pants are an idea from his January show, but now, separated from a jacket and shown with a minimal top, you can see how they would appeal to a cool guy (or girl). And those linen coats may recall the 80's of Yohji Yamamoto, but they also a recall a style, in camping plastic, that Mr. Simons showed in 2002.
The message this season is volume and more sophisticated fabrics, which will be essential at Jil Sander. If the show had a fault, it was the diminishing effect on the beautiful clothes of all that Medici scenery.
Backstage, as Mr. Simons hydrated himself from a liter of Coca-Cola, Mr. Bertelli stood off to the side. He looked pleased. He was eating a pear, slicing off chunks with a knife, and when he had finished, one of the Prada executives splashed Mr. Bertelli's hands with water from a bottle. He shook them dry.
When asked what he thought of Mr. Simons as a designer, he joked that he - Mr. Bertelli - would probably be complimented for hiring him at Sander. This was a reference to criticism about his previous hires.
When asked what he thought of Mr. Simons as a man, Mr. Bertelli grew serious. "He's thoughtful," he said. "You can see he was not born in the fashion world. He has all the characteristics of a person who is mature, who is used to working."
The inside leg
[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]The return of trousers [/font]
[font=Geneva,Arial,sans-serif]Charlie Porter
Saturday July 16, 2005
The Guardian
[/font][font=Geneva,Arial,sans-serif]When there's a pile of Raf Simons badges on the floor, how many are you allowed to take? It's the launch of his new diffusion line, Raf by Raf Simons, at the Pitti trade show in Florence, and on the stand are two pairs of white jeans, a pair of chinos and half a room of badges. By purposefully accidentally dropping my pen twice, I scooped up 12.
We're talking spring/summer 06, the clothes you'll be sold from next January to June, which means you'd do well to get white jeans and khakis now in the sales. These Raf trousers were flat-fronted and cut with what appeared to be a square top lock. We learned this phrase at the Levi's stand: they use it for their 506, 511 and 512 styles, which square up tight over the rear and don't have that flap of fabric over the thigh .
Chinos: as discussed last week, the cut has to be modern. These Raf by Raf ones were of thin material, and the right shade of warm powderiness. Others to note are those by 7 For All Mankind, which has translated its jeans knowledge into making a great pair of lightweight cotton trousers.
I keep getting carried away with trousers, a sign of how they've been neglected these past few seasons. We're entering the post-polo shirt era: what seems absolutely right is pale blue striped shirts of worn-in cotton, open over a white V-neck, sleeves rolled tight just above the elbow. Best for shirts: Gap, Margaret Howell, Veronique Branquinho. I'm also interested in grandad collars, and they'll soon be available at Miu Miu. Coming up: tonal shades, where your tie will be of the same colour as your shirt. I'm not joking - it looks ace. · Charlie Porter is associate editor of GQ ([email protected]).
ANY INTEREST ?
[/font]
[font=arial,helvetica,sans-serif]The return of trousers [/font]
[font=Geneva,Arial,sans-serif]Charlie Porter
Saturday July 16, 2005
The Guardian
[/font][font=Geneva,Arial,sans-serif]When there's a pile of Raf Simons badges on the floor, how many are you allowed to take? It's the launch of his new diffusion line, Raf by Raf Simons, at the Pitti trade show in Florence, and on the stand are two pairs of white jeans, a pair of chinos and half a room of badges. By purposefully accidentally dropping my pen twice, I scooped up 12.
We're talking spring/summer 06, the clothes you'll be sold from next January to June, which means you'd do well to get white jeans and khakis now in the sales. These Raf trousers were flat-fronted and cut with what appeared to be a square top lock. We learned this phrase at the Levi's stand: they use it for their 506, 511 and 512 styles, which square up tight over the rear and don't have that flap of fabric over the thigh .
Chinos: as discussed last week, the cut has to be modern. These Raf by Raf ones were of thin material, and the right shade of warm powderiness. Others to note are those by 7 For All Mankind, which has translated its jeans knowledge into making a great pair of lightweight cotton trousers.
I keep getting carried away with trousers, a sign of how they've been neglected these past few seasons. We're entering the post-polo shirt era: what seems absolutely right is pale blue striped shirts of worn-in cotton, open over a white V-neck, sleeves rolled tight just above the elbow. Best for shirts: Gap, Margaret Howell, Veronique Branquinho. I'm also interested in grandad collars, and they'll soon be available at Miu Miu. Coming up: tonal shades, where your tie will be of the same colour as your shirt. I'm not joking - it looks ace. · Charlie Porter is associate editor of GQ ([email protected]).
ANY INTEREST ?
[/font]
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