Rick Owens Mens F/W 12.13 Paris

[Desi]

The high-waisted pants should have never come into existence. Why would a guy want to wear something like that?

they are more fun than regular pants though and a lot more fun than low-rise dress pants (ugh).

 

[Squizree]

^ Haha, that I can probably agree with. If I had to choose between high waisted or drop crotch pants, I would pick high-waisted. At least you can choose when to expose their waist. And I imagine they would keep your c0ck nice and stable instead of wobbling all over the place. Seriously, that's really important for me!

 

[juanpyx]

I like the way he plays with the textures, even if the clothes are not "my personal taste". It's always appreciated.....But I'd love to wear the second look from #7

 

[Fashion_Girl22]

HQs
not the best quality




vogue.co.uk

 

[Fashion_Girl22]

vogue.co.uk

 

[Fashion_Girl22]

vogue.co.uk

 

[WilhelmF]

PARIS, January 19, 2012
By Tim Blanks

Rick Owens has mountains on his mind. He named today's show after them. And next week, Giorgio Pace Projects is launching Magic Mountain, an exhibition of his furniture, in St Moritz. A mountain makes an ideal Owens metaphor: aspiration, inspiration (you climb it 'cause it's there), one step closer to heaven. There's more. Mountains are sport, so there was an aerodynamic quality in a snow-white shirt, with a collar that swooped back over the shoulder as if borne on a downhill wind. Maybe it was the thin mountain air that inspired the fragile aqua of another shirt. The stripes on small shearling jackets looked ski-ish. The white jersey pants they were paired with could also have been vintage skiwear at a pinch. And the final trio of padded, quilted coat, parka, and vest were clearly so down-filled as to resist the chill winds of Everest itself.

If the abstract sportiness was a new mood for Owens, so was the Steerpike silhouette that matched high-waisted, baggy-crotched pants to cropped, high-waisted jackets with narrow sleeves that seemed to stretch the arms. There was something young and street about the result, as opposed to the grand, ceremonial volumes that Owens specializes in. Of course, they were here too, in the form of the skirts that have become a signature item. The designer confessed to bemusement at the photos from Pitti Uomo of the peacocks that populate Tommy Ton's pictures, with their clashing colors and swathes of exotic stuff and sartorial details for days. "I always want one less button," Owens said. "But here I am with my black dress." And he laughed, appreciating the extremity of the notion. In the context of mountains, his skirts had a shamanic flair. Tibet, maybe. But it's another spiritual center that has really captured Owens' imagination. "My dream job? Head gardener at the Vatican," he said. "I could wear a robe all day." From his lips to the Pope's ears.

style.com

 

[mikeijames]

he's genius imo. I love how he didn't just do the silhouette of the season like everyone else. He really elongated the legs with the high waist and gave them a cropped leather jacket. This one i absolutely need

i completely agree with this. rick owens displays his genius as a designer no matter what walks the runway. when but deconstructs the enterprise of fashion, it doesn't really involve more than fabrications and proportions. if one doesn't have the courage to experiment with those things, one really hasn't pushed forward our ideas about fashion. rick, in this collection, has pushed the envelope. there's something so agitating and unsettling about this silhouette. it refuses to fit into a box. it's not formal, it's not street. those high waisted pants feel terribly new and those bulky coats toward the end have transformative abilities. it's interesting that he sneaked in several of his best sellers -- sneakers, leathers, et al -- while presenting the most daring new proposition for men we've seen during the past two weeks.

and i simply can't get enough of the attitude and mood set by just throwing a swath of leather or fabric across one's shoulder like a scarf.

style.com

 

[WilhelmF]

At Men’s Fashion Shows, A Mix of Aspiration and Powerful Intrigue
By CATHY HORYN

The movies often keep fashion designers in duds, as we saw at Miuccia Prada’s fall men’s show in Milan and a few days later at Rick Owens in Paris. But these designers approach the imagery very differently.

Ms. Prada cast a bespoke formality over her suits and fur-collared coats, and to complete the total illusion of individuality (and royalty), she put some leading character actors in her show: Willem Dafoe, Gary Oldman, Tim Roth. But before her audience got to see those great mugs, she included models with mustaches and more bulk than the usual runway tadpoles. Afterward she told journalists that the show was a parody of male power.

Well, power is the magic word these days. It surprises me, though, that no one made a connection to British movies made in the late 1950s and ’60s and their gritty realism, and to actors like Alan Bates, Oliver Reed and Richard Harris, who in my mind’s eye are wearing a belted double-breasted coat with an ugly bit of fur on the lapels. Somehow I see “Georgy Girl” or a crowd scene in “This Sporting Life.” And I suspect that with a little research, the kind that fashion houses like to do to prepare a collection and dazzle us, I could find photographs of hoods, gypsies and con men who were rocking this look long before the Prada show.

Of course, men and women of all classes have long used clothing to project their idea of power and glamour. Today we have a fancy term for it: aspiration dressing. But that’s a reason to distrust this show. Although I sense a murderer lurking in Ms. Prada’s gentlemen’s clothes (to borrow Manny Farber’s comment about John Huston’s feckless villains), I am not at all sure that’s what she intends. She has left things murky, conveniently.

What’s interesting to me is that a young fashion customer might actually prefer the leaner visual drama of a gentleman who is at heart a murderer. I got that sense from the super-polished black leather in Raf Simons’s Jil Sander show. Obviously no old-school gentleman would wear head-to-toe leather, but that’s my point: What if there’s a new class of gentlemen out there? It’s up to designers to imagine how such a person might interpret things like impeccable tailoring and good taste. You don’t have to stay in the same Savile Row rut or, for that matter, in the costume shop at Pinewood Studios.

I was also intrigued by Rick Owens’s comment that he was inspired by Fred Astaire to make small-waist trousers with a bit of fullness in the hips and slim legs. When I was watching the show, I thought of Astaire, with his magical long legs — well, not so long in reality. A lot of designers over the years have been influenced by Astaire and other style icons, but usually their stuff is embarrassingly literal. Mr. Owens made sure his trousers, as well as his jackets and coats, would look sane on the streets.

He accomplishes a lot here. There’s a note of formality (without the dust) and that elongated silhouette that designers like at the moment. Above all, you can imagine a young man wearing those pants, with sneakers, and being stopped by strangers who want the look for themselves. That’s aspiration.

nytimes.com

 

[Scott]

i was just thinking how much those trouser shapes reminded me of those old 40's-50's gabardine shapes with the small waists and wider legs.

 

[Pradable]

 

[Not Plain Jane]

The high waisted pants are striking: almost what? Gatsby-ish? 20-30s? Anyhow, they are different.

 

[AgrenateD]

there's something so agitating and unsettling about this silhouette.

great point, i find this collection quite paradoxical (spiritual mountains, minimalist trekker, gardener/ministerwear?) and i'm not even sure if i like it yet, but i do love how Rick makes me think and mull things over, instead of just wowing me outright. and more so the fact that Rick's ascetic minimalism just seems to be too massive for people to digest/accept, even for fans like me. whoever'd think pared down black clothing can have so much power as to disturb people

i do find this transition back into pants very refreshing, his flowy modernist nomad explorer has left me parched. and whilst some of these silhouettes do take a little getting used to, the great thing about his pieces is that they always make for great separates (i would wear one piece a day if it were possible lol), thus i agree with a comment here (or was is somewhere else) saying that this would've been very inspirational for a stylist. lots of room to play around with good quality pieces that are somber yet street all at once. there's just so much daring in the simplicity.

 

[lordevan]

this is terrible

 

[WilhelmF]

The man himself at his Fall 2012 menswear show.


nytimes.com