To the Palais-Royal via California
By ERIC WILSON
Published: October 5, 2006
PARIS
Antoine Antoniol for The New York Times
Rick Owens at his new shop in Paris. He was surprised to be noticed.
APART from the time years ago when I heard an American tourist ask for directions to the Arc de Trump, the strangest conversation I heard this week was between a newlywed couple in an elevator. He was whining that they had not had time to go shopping. “I guess it’s never what I want to do,” he said.
Paris is a city that makes you lose your mind when it comes to spending, and in the last couple of years a bunch of new designer stores have opened, remaking stretches of the Rue St.-Honoré in the blocks around Colette. There the old Helmut Lang store is being remade into a Miu Miu, and closer to the Louvre, Brooks Brothers opened this week.
Rick Owens, the California-born designer who has not left Paris in four years, was surprised by the demand he encountered when he opened his first store, in the Jardins du Palais-Royal, in August. (It is on Galerie de Valois, opposite Didier Ludot’s vintage store and a new Marc Jacobs store on Galerie de Montpensier.)
“I always thought this place was so hidden away and discreet,” Mr. Owens said. “I thought we would go out of business in the first month. If I didn’t have Diana Ross land outside in a parachute, I thought, who is going to notice?”
Mr. Owens, 44, took over the space from L’Éclaireur, a fashion shop that carried his clothes, and within a month he was having trouble keeping it full of clothes. On Monday, the morning after his spring show, he was stocking the racks with his intricately sliced and sewn fall jackets, mixed with furs from his collection for Revillon and small square leather handbags.
Upstairs, Mr. Owens has installed his own furniture designs, including a canoe-shape settee constructed of unstained wood, a cashmere cushion and balls of resin on each end, which sparkle like quartz. A small table made of human skulls, snake vertebrae and ostrich eggs was his idea of coquille d’oeuf, an old technique of using eggshells in surface decoration.
Mr. Owens said that as he has become more at ease in Paris, he has accepted his place in its realm of designers, as an outsider working inside the classic French boundaries, in his way.
“I’m a California guy interpreting the heritage of French artifice in a crude American way,” he said. “Now I kind of feel like I have found a little corner where I am comfortable and can do my own thing.”
nytimes.com