This is one of his stronger collections for Cavalli, though I can’t say that’s a high bar. His approach to Cavalli and design in general often feels painfully basic and two-dimensional. That said, there’s an ease in some of these looks that actually works; a first for him, since his shows usually read like paper dolls on a runway.
Cavalli needs movement and energy, and while there’s more of that here, it still falls flat. The best pieces are lifted directly from the Cavalli archives. But when left to his own devices, his limitations become glaringly obvious. He never seems to see clothing in three dimensions, and that lack of depth is what keeps cavalli from ever truly soaring and having a moment again.