Roberto Cavalli F/W 2016.17 Milan

[Scotty]

nowfashion.com

COLLECTION

 

[squilliam]

Well it's definitely an improvement, even if it kinda looks like a mix of Valentino and Gucci with a hint of Saint Laurent. But I do see the Cavalli in it, and some stuff is really nice.

 

[tricotineacetat]

This looks really convincing to me, and I couldn't care less for the whole vintage bohemia thing happening in fashion right now. Unlike at Saint Laurent and Balmain, I find that he managed to keep the clothes at an acceptable balance of hyperluxe embellishment and longer lengths without drowing the models in excessively weighty clothes. Of course there is nothing happening here that we haven't seen before but that's alright, some collections can work just fine providing just a believable wardrobe to their target customer. I think there is plenty to shop here, for the kind of woman that Cavalli (should) speak to.

 

[zoom]

Night and day improvement from last season's acid wash nightmare. The Cavalli dna is apparent and built upon here in a smart way.

 

[nataliaapple]

HUGE improvement. Looks really good in the still photos.

 

[Creative]

So lush. Judging this by what it is, pure styling, it is quite good. There are some nice pieces and overall the show was quite a statement. He did 70's (this trend is lasting quite a lot, maybe as much as 80's circa 2009) in a different way. A very obvious one, but feels more hippie than before, it is very 1969-1970 sometimes but mixed with some shapes from 1974-75.

Love the pants on Alexandra Ljadov. I can imagine some Ghesquièreish gorgeous reinterpretations looking at them.

Anyway, Dundas is a one trick pony. He brings his aesthetic wherever he goes and doesn't even try to adapt to the brand's DNA. Don't blame him for it, though.

 

[Lola701]

I'm...disappointed once again...
It feels reductive. Last season was bad but it had a new energy, something fresh for Cavalli, something to explore and the clothes were somehow believable IRL.

This is more in tune with the idea of what we think Cavalli should be but it feels empty. Dundas is good at it. He is the king of "70's effortless-Stevie Nicks" style but we have seen this many many times before from him at Pucci and from Cavalli (before he cameback).

Those sheer long dresses are annoying at this point! The last dress is very Kim Kardashian for the Met Ball

I have still that fantasy of his first collection for Pucci. That is the kind of things i expect from him at Cavalli.

I'm not a Cavalli woman (even if i've always liked Cavalli) but that spring collection was intriguing and had a lot of good pieces that i might want to buy but this.... It is good for the existing Cavalli clientele.

Try again Peter and go back to the cleaner aesthetic of your first collection. It lacked luxury but it had potential!

 

[Creative]

^Yup. this was quite a departure from that first show. In fact, when I opened the thread I was expecting a more juvenile/trashy collection. Thought that was his vision for this brand, and thought he was trying to do something deliberately awkward to gain notoriety. But he did what has always been doing. Maybe his first collection didn't have a warm welcome from buyers.

 

[Spike413]

This is definitely more familiarly Cavalli and Dundas than spring, and I always did like that sort of decadent bohemian edge that was at the core of Cavalli's brand if for no other reason than the luxury and craft used in making it was palpable even to the naked eye, but something still isn't quite clicking. It's checking all of the boxes, all the ducks are in a row, but it doesn't really ignite. It feels sort of reserved...if you can call a lineup of ocelot printed fur, patchwork jewel tone snakeskin and transparent metallic fil coupe reserved that is. It's like when you taste something that you're cooking and it's clearly missing something but you can't put your finger on what.

Still, I'll take a straightfoward display of beautifully made, un-challenging, largely flattering clothes over much of what passes for fashion these days.

 

[orchidee]

Even though this is pretty much old Cavalli, it's way better than his spring collection. It'll be nice to see him experimenting, but last season was just a little too extreme of a departure.

 

[squilliam]

This is definitely more familiarly Cavalli and Dundas than spring, and I always did like that sort of decadent bohemian edge that was at the core of Cavalli's brand if for no other reason than the luxury and craft used in making it was palpable even to the naked eye, but something still isn't quite clicking. It's checking all of the boxes, all the ducks are in a row, but it doesn't really ignite. It feels sort of reserved...if you can call a lineup of ocelot printed fur, patchwork jewel tone snakeskin and transparent metallic fil coupe reserved that is. It's like when you taste something that you're cooking and it's clearly missing something but you can't put your finger on what.

Still, I'll take a straightfoward display of beautifully made, un-challenging, largely flattering clothes over much of what passes for fashion these days.

I feel like maybe it's this sense of confident sex appeal and the right amount of decadence that early 00's Cavalli collections had? Maybe that's what's missing, maybe that's why it's good but not "I must have that" great.

 

[dodencebt]

I have to be honest, I prefer his Spring collection. I know it read as cheap, but it brought something new - this forgotten aesthetic from the mid 2000s which is set to stage a comeback in a few years probably, but I guess it was too soon (and Cavalli isn't exactly the powerhouse to influence a whole direction in fashion). It's a shame that Dundas was forced to go back to this. It's high quality and lush, but very derivative considering we've been seeing all this for seasons now everywhere.

 

[Scotty]

I feel like maybe it's this sense of confident sex appeal and the right amount of decadence that early 00's Cavalli collections had? Maybe that's what's missing, maybe that's why it's good but not "I must have that" great.

Yes. It's got a more Gucci feeling than sexy.

 

[Fashionstuff]

This collection is not bad, some pieces are really good.
It looks like Cavalli and Pucci in one. Some pieces are similar to his last Pucci-Zodiac-collection.
Cavalli is-or was about luxurious sexy young starlet which spend her time in St.Moritz in winter and on the yacht of her friends in the summertime.
His s/s 16 collection was so ugly ,IMO. There were nothing from Cavalli.It could be Innovation, it could be anything but it was horrible. Anyway, this collection looks better as his s/s 16.
It seems as Dundas this time has made collection which the buyers will like and order. In this case, why not. Roberto Cavalli has only 10% now. The brand must survive. So,maybe Dundas simply made his job- he made a collection which Cavalli fans will like and will buy it.

 

[Scotty]

It's funny because all of his time during Pucci and even Ungaro maybe, his collections had a very sexy Cavalli vibe, but now that he is in actual Cavalli, there is no sexiness whatsoever.

 

[gossiping]

it looks like something that was designed before peter dundas even arrived

this is so weird

what is this brand now?

 

[DutchHomme]

This collection feels a bit dated..something from decades ago
but it´s much better compared to last season

This designer should never have left the brand Pucci!
I loved Pucci so much! He made that brand so BIG!

 

[disco54]

I love it all.

I dont' find it dated at all, pretty much in line with whats going on Saint Laurent and Gucci. But this is far more pretty.

 

[Fashionstuff]

This collection feels a bit dated..something from decades ago
but it´s much better compared to last season

This designer should never have left the brand Pucci!
I loved Pucci so much! He made that brand so BIG!

Agree!
His Pucci was perfect. And Cavalli collections were good. Now Pucci is horrible, Giorgetti's second collection today was so ugly, there were prints similar to Pucci and the rest -Horror pure , and same with Cavalli brand which was very famous in Italy. It's not Cavalli anymore, it's Pucci by Dundas remaked for Cavalli.
How nice was for example Cavalli s/s 15 collection, white laces, print dresses, laces and denim, sexy, glam, typical Cavalli.

 

[JeanAvril]

A beautiful collection. The venue, models, string players, soundtrack etc. all really worked together to create this really vivid image of who the Cavalli girl/boy is, according to Dundas. I don't mind that all of this has been done before when it's done sowell. And given that the brand is going through a transition stage + with the state of the luxury market today, I'm sure there are pragmatic/political reasons for going this route, compared to last season's more exploratory collection, which I thought was subpar. I'm really excited to see what Dundas does over time.