Share with us... Your Best & Worst Collections of Haute Couture S/S 2025
vogue.comby Emily Holt
Marco Zanini’s Rochas woman may be modest and reserved, but she’s no wallflower. It takes self-assurance to wear navy silk palazzo pants and a matching short-waisted, long-sleeved top—with flats no less. But that’s what Zanini’s Rochas is all about: beauty that’s not obvious, sexiness without stilettos. His solid pre-fall collection reinforced that ethos. It included full leg pants that puddle at the floor, and loose-fitting, long sleeve sweaters that zip in the back so that they can be left open when a more unexpected look is desired. Less buttoned-up were his pretty blouses and silk frocks—here in oyster, navy, and black silk—with scalloped ruffle hems and detail. Other dresses had a screen-siren silhouette that was more delicately romantic than overtly seductive. Zanini showed only one print, this time on a selection of sophisticated pieces done in a seafoam, brown, and silver Bucol fabric. The pattern was inspired by wallpaper, but the woman wearing it has little chance of blending in with her surroundings.
I LOVE this collection. I think this is possibly the best of the pre-fall 2011 collections!