SOME women, like Natalie Massenet, can’t wait to get a piece of RM.
Sure, there are better-known labels sold on Ms. Massenet’s Web site, Net-a-porter.com, which is to eBay what Bergdorf Goodman is to Kmart in the realm of online retailers. Her seven-year-old site is a leading seller of Chloé handbags and Christian Louboutin heels, and features fashion from Burberry, Marc Jacobs and Miu Miu.
But the designer that customers most fervently request, Ms. Massenet said, is one she can’t exactly (or legally) name, save for his monogram: RM.
In 2005, Roland Mouret gave up the rights to his name after quarreling with his financial backers. His business was only five years old, but sales of Mr. Mouret’s signature femme fatale dresses were “relatively exceptional for a ready-to-wear designer,” Ms. Massenet said, and the “galaxy” dress worn by Scarlett Johansson at the Oscars, was “the single most sought-after piece of clothing in the history of Net-a-porter.”
So she is not concerned that Mr. Mouret’s return as RM, now backed by Simon Fuller, the English entertainment mogul, will be confused as a new celebrity collection from Ronald McDonald or Rupert Murdoch. She bought the entire 21-look collection that he plans to present during the couture shows in Paris next week, his first in two years, and will make it available for ordering beginning July 5.
Ms. Massenet has been working with the designer to create a video of the show so that customers can buy a $700 top, a $3,000 coat or a pair of $925 shoes made by Mr. Louboutin by clicking on them as they come down the runway. “We find it a poetic nod that he’s showing during couture, but in a 21st-century way,” she said. “Women will be able to attend his show virtually, and then order directly.”
It would be possible for an RM devotee, with a budget of about $70,000 and, if Mr. Mouret’s previous work is any indication, the measurements of Jessica Rabbit, to buy every item from the show. Still, Ms. Massenet hasn’t quite resolved the gap between instant satisfaction and the physics of production. The goods won’t ship until November.