Runway Make-Up Resort & S/S 2016

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Simone Rocha | London
Make-Up: Sam Bryant.
Hair: James Pecis.





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By Stephanie Hirschmiller

Makeup artist Sam Bryant for MAC Cosmetics kept her look for the Simone Rocha show “superyoung and fresh” to contrast with the grandeur and gilding of the designer’s Lancaster House show venue.

Bryant took inspiration from the kimonos and wraps in the collection, and gave a very subtle nod to Japanese Kabuki makeup with a young, punk feeling.

Bryant applied a candy pink blush on the very top of the cheekbones and brushed it up into the hairline. Two shades were blended for a more natural look – Blush Creme in Brit Wit and Cremeblend Blush in So Sweet, So Easy.

Rocha referenced punk rock and Japanese photographer Nobuyoshi Araki, according to hairstylist James Pecis.

He backcombed the front section for a rockabilly vibe, set it using large tongs and created a loose French braid, pinching out tiny sections and spraying them to toughen up the look.

 

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Gareth Pugh | London
Make-Up: Val Garland.
Hair: Malcolm Edwards.

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By Stephanie Hirschmiller

“Schizo disco, plastic pulp, Soho sex club,” was the makeup vibe at Gareth Pugh, according to MAC’s Val Garland. “With inspirations taking in Donna Summer juxtaposed with Lindsay Kemp and a bit of drag queen Divine,” she added.

She prepped skin with MAC Pro Longwear Waterproof Foundation and Mineralise Foundation. Then, once the entire head had been covered in a nylon stocking by the hair team, the rest of the makeup was painted on top. Eyelids were slashes of MAC Acrylic Paint in Marine Ultra with brows painted on in Rapid Black Penultimate Eye Liner and Black Acrylic Paint on top. Lips were painted in Acrylic Paint in Basic Red.

Hairstylist Malcolm Edwards back-combed lengths, sectioned them off and twisted them to the crown from the nape up so hair lay flat on the head. The result was sprayed an opaque blonde, which was dried in and covered with the cap stitched in place and glued to the skin. All this formed the base for four pompoms in either red or platinum that were sewn on and fluffed out so the girls resembled the clown from Stephen King’s “It.”

Marian Newman’s MAC nails were inspired by fairground bumper cars and slot machines. The former were built up with two or three layers of red or black glitter embedded under a Mac Pro gloss topcoat for a 3-D effect, while the latter saw pennies hanging off pierced fingernails to match the coin embellished dresses in the show – and the pennies scattered by the catwalk.

 

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Temperley London | London
Make-Up: Val Garland.
Hair: Antonio Corral Calero.





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By Stephanie Hirschmiller

The makeup at Temperley makeup had a bohemian feel. “Our girl is at a festival; she’s been dancing and her skin is glowing,” said Val Garland, working for Maybelline New York. She prepped the skin with Dream Satin Liquid foundation where needed and flushed the cheeks with Dream Touch Blush, using the Baby lips Dr Rescue lip balm as a highlighter just above the cheekbones.

She applied Lash Sensational Lash Multiplying Mascara on the roots of the lashes, brushed up the brows with Master Shape brow pencil in Soft Brown, using Brow Satin in Mahogany Red and Dark Blonde for definition. Lips got lashings of Color Drama in In With Coral and Fab Orange shades.

Hair tylist Antonio Corral Calero used MoroccanOil products to create low ponytails to compliment the Cuban vibe of the collection. Having prepped the lengths with the label’s Treatment Oil, he created a very soft and simple middle parting, teasing the hair so it covered the ears.

He proceeded to section hair from the nape up and sprayed Root boost in a zigzag motion before securing it with a band. He tonged a few pieces, tapping on Moulding Cream to other sections for texture and fluffing the hair covering the ears to finish. “Doable, sexy and easy hair,” he said.

 

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Christopher Kane | London
Make-Up: Lucia Pieroni.
Hair: Guido Palau.





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By Stephanie Hirschmiller

The look at Christopher Kane was all about “crash and repair – creating something new out of destruction,” said makeup artist Lucia Pieroni, working with NARS Cosmetics.

Skin was prepped with Luminous Moisture Cream, Optimal Brightening Concentrate and Total Replenishing Eyecream with Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturiser.

Cheeks were contoured with Matte Multiple in Anguilla, eyes slicked with the pink tinged Sexual Healing lipstick shade. Rosecliff Lipstick was patted onto the lips with the fingers.

Kane gave hairstylist Guido Palau a whole bunch of multicolored cable ties the morning of the show and they became an integral part of the look — both securing pony tails and also joined together so they wound around the neck and over the hair like a choker.

He used Redken Shine Flash Glistening Mist to flatten the hair and make it look tougher. He also put in fake bangs on 12 or 13 of the girls — as if they’d hacked into their own fringes with a pair of scissors, he said.

 

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Erdem | London
Make-Up: Val Garland.
Hair: Antony Turner.



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By Stephanie Hirschmiller

“Inspiration for the Erdem makeup look was a prairie girl who lives on the American plains,” said Val Garland, who aimed for alabaster skin with a tear-stained eye.

Using NARS products, she prepped skin with Luminous Moisture Cream followed by the new Velvet Matte Skin Tint. “It makes the skin look really elastic.”

Matt Multiple in Vientiane was washed across eyelids, into the socket and underneath the eye for a “tea stained effect” with Train Bleu lip pencil in the crease and cream Het Loo lip pencil under the eye. Cheeks were contoured with Copacabana Illuminator and Velvet Matte Skin Tint was also applied to the lips as a balm.

“The look is very light and pretty with an extremely dark twist — the darkest yet,” said hairstylist Antony Turner, working with Bumble and bumble.

He misted Thickening Lotion on the hair from a distance and dried the product in with his fingers, creating a messy centre parting for a windswept effect.

Hair was finished with Dryspun Finish, which he sprayed onto the inside, lifting up the lengths and letting them drop to give the look air and make it feel “ghostly,” he said.

 

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Burberry Prorsum | London
Make-Up: Wendy Rowe.
Hair: Christiaan.





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By Stephanie Hirschmiller

“Her look is very honest and open,” said Wendy Rowe of the makeup at Burberry.

Using the brand’s products, Rowe prepped skin with Fresh Glow Foundation — powdered down for a more satin feel – and did lots of subtle sculpting on the eye, cheek, nose and jawline with the Contour Pen in medium.

Eyes were outlined in Effortless Eye Kohl in Stone and a matte lip was done in Oxblood.

Stylist Christiaan said he wanted hair to be effortless. He was going for the lived-in look and achieved this “three day old hair” effect using Aveda light Elements Texturizing Creme.

 

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Peter Pilotto | London
Make-Up: Val Garland.
Hair: Anthony Turner.





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By Stephanie Hirschmiller

The MAC makeup look at Peter Pilotto was all about flawless skin, said Val Garland. She prepped skin with Lightful Softening Lotion and Moisture Infusion Serum followed by Mineralize Charged Water Face and Body Lotion.

Blush was a mixture of two different products: So Sweet So Easy and Brit Wit Cremeblend Blush with Climax Cream Color Base used as highlighter. A bare lip was simply coated in Prep and Prime Lip.

Anthony Turner’s hair had a sporty, military vibe. “Peter Pilotto and Christopher de Vos wanted the hair to feel like a real girl on the street,” he said.

Using L’Oréal Professionnel products, he created a messy center part, lightly spritzing Tecni.ART Pli and Mythic Oil all through the lengths, drying it with his fingers.

He finished the look with more Moroccan Oil on the ends, using Tecni.ART Infinium to fluff a few pieces away from the head as if the girl had just run her fingers through her hair.

 

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Thomas Tait | London
Make-Up: Thomas de Kluyver.
Hair: Sam Burnett.



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By Stephanie Hirschmiller

“This season at Thomas Tait was about very clean, beautiful skin with a 3-D architectural lash,” said Thomas de Kluyver, working with MAC.

He custom-built lashes by cutting up numbers seven, three and two from the MAC range and secured them with a rim of wire on the outer ends “like creating a halo around the eye,” he said. He applied these to both top and bottom lashes with more volume at the inner corner on top and at the outer corner at the bottom so the overall effect looked odd as opposed to showgirl.

Skin was rendered dewy with a base of Mineralize Charged Water Face and Body Lotion, applied with the fingers with highlights of Cream Colorbase in Pearl.

Sam Burnett for KMS created two different hairstyles, working with the hair’s natural texture to bring out the shine. Effortless was the watchword and key products were Moistrepair leave-in conditioner and Hairplay sea salt spray with Hairstay antihumidity seal applied to the ends. Looks were fixed in place with Freeshape 2-in-1 styling + finishing spray.

The first look was loose with deliberate kinks as if the girls had washed their hair the night before and gone to sleep with it wet. The second was a swooshed ponytail mimicking both the circular shapes of the clothes and also those lashes. It was tied in a band and then twisted clockwise to create a disc shape with the end secured with a large, visible bobby pin.

 

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Gucci | Milan
Make-Up: Pat McGrath.
Hair: Paul Hanlon.



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By Courtney Smith

“I can’t say it’s one particular look at all,” said hairstylist Paul Hanlon. “It’s more diverse than we’ve ever done it here before. It’s not commercial beauty — it’s all about the casting, playing on what they have, and adding little details like side parts, bobby pins, fringes, curls.”

On some girls, Hanlon sprayer water to enhance hair texture, while other girls’ texture was knocked down with tongs. To finish, Bumble and bumble Brilliantine separated and moisturized hair ends, and affected a one-day old feeling “to add age to clean hair.”

“We’re working with every girls’ individual character,” echoed makeup artist Pat McGrath on her “fresh and natural” look using Gucci Beauty cosmetics. Aiming to “keep the skin really bare,” McGrath smoothed a thin layer of Lustrous Glow Foundation and then wiped it off, followed by a sparse dusting of Nude Freesia Sheer Blushing Powder on the apples of cheeks. Lips were colored with Moisture Rich Lip in Carnation and Audacious Color Intense Lipstick in Spring Rose.

Plummy and taupe shadows from the Aristocratic Shadow duo palette were brushed around the eyes and run under the bottom lash line, and Infinite length Mascara in Cocoa embellished top eyelashes.

 

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Alberta Ferretti | Milan
Make-Up: Charlotte Tilbury.
Hair: Guido Palau.





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By Courtney Smith

“Like how a desert sunset hits the face, tinged in gold highlights,” makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury said. Using MAC Cosmetics, Tilbury began with a wash of Bronzing Powder in Golden over the eyelids and dropped into the corner of the eyes, followed by Cream Colour Base in Hush and Pearl on the center of the mouth and the bridge of the nose to highlight.

Cheeks carried Mineralize Blush in Dainty dusted over Cream Colour Base in Improper Copper and Pearl. Eyelids were washed with the Chilled on Ice Pro Longwear Paint Pot and a mixture of Woodwinked and Glean shadows. Lips were laid pink with Da Bling eyeshadow.

Hairstylist Guido Palau accented twisted-up volumes with hand-woven coils. Redken Wind Blown 05 was sprayed into hair before it was twisted up and given a bit of height at the top.

“There’s no rhyme or reason, so it doesn’t feel too orderly,” he said. “It’s just the idea of twisting it up and making it soft around the hairline.” To finish, gold thread was wrapped around hair in random sections.

Palau explained that the gold trimmings alluded to late-Seventies and early-Eighties hairstyles, “when a lot of collections were based on desert inspiration with gold accents.”