by Catherine Piercy
THE CREDITS:
Makeup, Lucia Pieroni for M.A.C.; hair, Eugene Souleiman for Wella.
THE LOOK: Pastoral beauty explores her painterly instincts.
MAKEUP: “The collection is full of incredible prints and hints of Scandanavian folklore,” said Lucia Pieroni, who looked to the exquisite blue of the Netherlands’ Delft pottery when dreaming up models’ vibrantly shaded lids and muted peach lips.
HAIR: “It’s quite rural, really,” said Eugene Souleiman of the buns secured with dozens of simple gold combs, and featuring soft, flyaway pieces untucked at random. “It’s very organic, like they were trying to keep their hair up during the day and just pushed them in where they felt like it. Each girl is different; there’s no formula.” Before models took the runway, he tied the house’s exquisite silk scarves—made from the same painterly prints (some created exclusively for Rochas by Swedish artist and family friend Slotts Barbro) as the house’s silk pajamas and bias slip dresses—over the back of the hair.
THE TOOLS:
MAKEUP:
ON SKIN: “It’s pale, simple skin,” said Pieroni, who used concealer as needed. “Nothing else.”
ON EYES: “I didn’t want the girls to look bare-faced and literal, like a Vermeer,” said Pieroni, who blended vivid blue liner (M.A.C. Chromaline Pencil in Marine Ultra) around the eyes instead. Of the color, she added: “If you’ve ever seen the Northern Lights in the summer, they have that same pale, cold quality to them.”
ON LIPS: “It’s a bit off, like a faded photograph,” Pieroni said of the pale, salmon color (M.A.C. Paint Stick in Dusty Coral) she dabbed onto models’ lips.
HAIR:
“There’s absolutely nothing in it,” said Souleiman, who twisted models’ clean hair into a girlish updo. He finished by sliding shiny, gold Création Delorme hair combs into the hair haphazardly and tying the house’s printed scarves for spring over the crown.