S/S 2010 Buyers Reports

kimair · Oct 10, 2009

starting with new york...
all from wwd...

Buyers Laud New York Fashion Shows

NEW YORK – A tricky path between safe and surprising.

That was the fine line designers had to walk during New York Fashion Week — and buyers generally gave them a thumbs-up for hitting the mark in a commercial way, even though some criticized the lack of creativity. “They were trying to push forward without being too challenging,” said Tiziana Cardini of Italy’s La Rinascente. “They have taken risks, but in a very smart way. It was prices. Some store executives said creativity suffered as a result of the strong emphasis on the bottom line. “Instead of having free rein to design whatever you want, you’re [constrained,]” said Kelly Golden of Neapolitan in Chicago. “It showed in the clothes. Fabrics weren’t as elaborate or embellished. The season was very commercial.”

Louis Boston’s Debi Greenberg, agreed, saying, “I find lowering price points to be a very dangerous territory. Designers were price conscious with some pieces. The fabrics were not as good as they were before due to the pricing. You’re changing the product.”

Other retailers took a different view. Stephanie Solomon at Bloomingdale’s said, “I saw commercial, which to me is not safe, it’s smart. I saw experimentation and I saw lots of creativity, more than in other years. All designers are focusing on price, but they didn’t skimp on the beauty of the fabrication and focus of their craft.”

Collections most often mentioned by buyers as standouts included Marc Jacobs, Proenza Schouler, Calvin Klein, Donna Karan, Rodarte, Oscar de la Renta, Narciso Rodriguez, Phillip Lim, Tory Burch and Alexander Wang, while several pointed to relative newcomers Prabal Gurung and Joseph Altuzarra.

Retailers found newness in cut-outs and transparencies, shorts, harem pants, color, crisp shirts, ruffled, ruched or tucked dresses, leather and oversize boyfriend shirts. Realizing that a little shoulder pad goes a long way, designers moved away from the aggressive Eighties silhouette to a softer Forties feel.

Here is what the buyers had to say:

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus: “I’m loving all the denim and chambray with denim jackets, skirts and dresses and denim motorcycle jackets, and the amount of color on the runways. Our customers crave color, from shades of blues mixed to greens and a sunset color palette of marigold and terra-cotta mixed with neutrals. It was nice to see the aggressive Eighties girl morph into a softer Forties attitude. I liked the newness of very artistic painterly prints, peep-toe boots under dresses and gymnasium chic with a bit of a nod to Norma Kamali. I’m also loving anoraks, which will replace the women’s trench, the shirtwaist dress and crisp men’s-style shirting. I feel very strongly about shorts, casual and relaxed or worn with a jacket.

“I loved Narciso Rodriguez’s ability to keep his collection very architectural and still have softness and movement and the sleeveless jackets and beautiful dresses in prints. Also, Donna Karan’s take on the suit, Proenza Schouler’s amazing sportif morphed into tribal, Rodarte’s spectacular pieces, Phillip Lim’s beautiful dresses, Richard Chai’s washed leathers in neutrals or faded colors and Marc Jacobs’ effusive ruffles, great safari jackets and coats.

“The customer is buying things she doesn’t already have in her wardrobe. She’s very item driven. Newness is paramount and a price tag that brings a smile to her face is nice. The newness we’ve seen on the runways in New York will help add to the success we’re looking for in this challenging economy.”

Colleen Sherin, fashion market director of Saks Fifth Avenue: “The spring-summer 2010 New York collections exceeded expectations and provided us with a healthy dose of fantasy along with accessible fashion. Key trends included architectural influences, with sharp, clean lines, contrasted by a softer, more sensual way of dressing, with a casual elegance. A chic, natural color palette was dominant in many collections, although bright shots of color are equally important.

“Mini lengths looked fresh and young, and lent themselves to the season’s optimistic mood. Cut-outs and transparencies were seen on body-conscious dresses. Feather trims added a playful touch of whimsy and have become the summer equivalent of fur. Must-have items include the new soft, relaxed pants in fluid fabrications; flouncy shorts, which have become the new skirt of the season; one-shoulder silhouettes; shirts and shirtdresses. The jumpsuit continues. I am especially excited by the artful dresses that we’ve seen, with origami folds and flowers, asymmetric cuts, pleating and draping details.

“Standouts were Vera Wang for the ethereal beauty of the collection, Proenza Schouler for fabulous mixed-media cocktail dresses embellished with paillettes and feathers, Marc Jacobs for never failing to delight, Rag & Bone for chambray shirting and waistcoats, Ralph Lauren for his fresh take on all-American sportswear. Others included J.Mendel, Marchesa, Phillip Lim, Calvin Klein, Thakoon and Oscar de la Renta.”

Ed Burstell, buying director of Liberty of London: “Overall, New York Fashion Week was a little bit hit or miss. Some things were a little forced. Michael Kors doing Space Age, for example. I loved Alexander Wang. He showed some skin, but it wasn’t vulgar. It was a light take on Americana and the perfect spring show. I also liked Diane von Furstenberg and Joseph Altuzarra’s pretty collection with some wonderful details. Since I’ve been [at Liberty of London], part of my mission has been to introduce more American brands. In the last six months, we’ve started selling Wang, Vince, Rag & Bone, Griffon, Marchesa and Opening Ceremony. We also buy Donna Karan, Ralph Lauren and Calvin Klein.

“There’s definitely a conscious effort to keep prices down. When you put a lot of that together, you need to come up with an original idea. Things were a little safe and there were not enough risks. When times are tough you need to give the consumer a compelling reason to buy. You need something that changes your attitude. That’s why I was a little disappointed.”

Tiziana Cardini, fashion director La Rinascente: “The real value of this season is that every designer has been trying to make his or her vision more clear, more precise and more individual without following trends for the sake of it. The common trend is that everybody has tried to be innovative but with an eye on the market. They were trying to find the special pieces that will always be interesting for the customer. Customers are becoming more choosy. They’re going to spend money with an eye toward quality, craftsmanship and ideas. We are all trying to do the best to attract the customer in a smart and creative way. Designers have all opened up the price range. They are making the best out of the conditions they face.

“Calvin Klein did a great show and I liked Proenza Schouler, Narciso Rodriguez, Phillip Lim and Alexander Wang. I loved Marc Jacobs. He has this outrageousness, this courage, which is really unique. He has a brilliant way of putting references together, mixing them up and spitting them out in a very original way. Even if some of his shows are more coherent than others, every season he gives you some inspiration and a unique point of view. This season was a very sophisticated, insider approach. If you know fashion you really appreciated it. We are also following the new designers very closely. New York is really good for that because it offers a real platform for new designers to be seen.”

Stephanie Solomon, vice president and fashion director for women’s ready-to-wear and accessories at Bloomingdale’s: “It was a very strong fashion week. Donna Karan continues to amaze with her ability to evolve her aesthetics. Somehow she hit the right note this season with fabrications and color palette. It’s easier and more casual. You can see the workmanship and appreciate the craft of designing. I felt the same way about Marc Jacobs, Michael Kors and Calvin Klein; they came to this moment. I love that Marc Jacobs took a romantic approach to dressing. It may have been over the top, but you know there are key pieces in the collection. Calvin Klein’s fabrics were awesome to look at and the architectural designs would let the woman wear the clothes rather than the clothes wear the woman. Phi’s collection was something to rave about; Andreas Melbostad is on a whole different wavelength with novel ideas. We’re so happy that we’re showcasing Prabal Gurung. We plan to pick up Kimberly Orvitz, a new designer on the scene with eight or 10 looks.

“There are really two dresses for spring — one very fitted with texture of cut-outs and another with foldings or ruffles and a not-in-your-face, less overt sexiness. In general, dresses are much more sophisticated. Key items include harem pants and shorts worn with jackets or worn as a suit. I loved all the different juxtapositions that came together with a very peaceful feeling. There was more emotion in the clothes. But it was ridiculous to go to from the tents to Milk Studios and back. It just added to the stress of these shows.”

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York: “Spring 2010 will be inspiring to the customer. I am dreaming every night about Rodarte. The imagination, the inspiration of the endangered condor, the colors and applications of fabric, the silhouettes, the edge. The condor was a metaphor for the season. It’s a prehistoric animal that has survived this long, but was almost extinct.

“Proenza was a charmer and had great day clothes and must-have short evening dresses. Alexander Wang raised it a notch from last season and Phillip Lim’s show was so pretty and smart. Altuzarra is growing fast in his talent. Narciso Rodriguez’s show was beautiful and his long dresses were the best in New York. The research and development of fabrics at Marc Jacobs, Proenza and Rodarte were spectacular. Because of computer technology, almost every collection had prints whose origins made the clothes seem modern, not retro. Many designers placed a strong emphasis on price. The showroom tells all but I think there is a place for lower price point lines but only if the approach is fresh and new. Lower price does not mean lower quality or less creativity. I think Richard Chai did a great job of introducing his Love collection, full of great style. We loved the khaki trenchcoats on the runways and particularly loved the red one at Phillip Lim.

“We learned a lot from Fashion’s Night Out. It really helped us. There are more customers out there than we think. We must entice and lure them into the stores with things that engage and educate them.”

Linda Fargo, senior vice president, fashion office and store presentation of Bergdorf Goodman: “The new season showed collections that were far more relaxed and at ease than fall, which favored more aggressive moods. Many designers showed more volume, draping and softness around the body. Fuller looks newer. Maybe as a reflection of our new world, designers embraced imperfection and asymmetry — a kind of controlled chaos. We were happy to see the preponderance of prints that started in resort carry through, as well as a better balance of color to black. This always enlivens the floor and can cause a shopping swoon. We loved the use of classic American utility fabrics such as fatigue green, denim, T-shirt, jersey and khaki and were particularly keen on all the ‘borrowing from boys,’ as seen in softly tailored jackets over fluid dresses, and deflated shorts and pants. We will proceed with caution with all the slashes, peekaboo and transparencies.

“We are most excited about the momentum and design quality coming out of Alexander Wang, Phillip Lim, Rag & Bone, Adam and Richard Chai. They have been more democratic in their pricing without losing any of their edge and integrity. Rodarte once again drew us into their unique and special world. Diane von Furstenberg gave us the best showroom appointment thus far, with clothes that can easily fulfill many fashion whims come spring.”
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kimair · Oct 10, 2009

new york continued...

Sarah Lerfel, buyer, Colette, Paris: “I think there was a good energy. I loved Proenza Schouler, Rodarte and Marc Jacobs. For Proenza, it was very fresh to see the color and the soft inspiration. For Jacobs, it was what he knows well. Thakoon did a good, balanced collection with easy to wear pieces. Alexander Wang was very good and Phi confirmed their direction. I went to see many young designers, [including] Josette Atudant and Matthew Ames, which was a great first collection. There were interesting accessories and some interesting jewelry, including a collection by Emily Love.

“I don’t consider prices at the fashion shows, but, yes, I suppose there will be a greater emphasis on price. Our shop is in a very special position. We have customers who want new trends anyway [without such an intense focus on cost]. I’m not worried that it will be a good season. There are strong pieces everywhere. The season was not a big surprise, there was no big revolution. The designers did what they know how to do. Maybe they started leaning to a new direction, but it was a little bit safe.”

Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direction at Toronto-based Holt Renfrew: “The week was very optimistic with a beautiful lightweight feeling to the clothes and beautiful palettes. The season was fresh and modern and spoke to a new generation who is traveling and packing light. In this economy, it’s all about fit and quality, looking at clothing and saying, ‘This is worth the money I’m spending.’ If it’s not going to jump out at the customer, she’s not going to buy it.

“Oscar de la Renta understands his woman and understands the casual lifestyle. At the same time, he knows this woman needs a structured, tailored suit, and he still makes it feel modern. Marc Jacobs is a visionary. He took essential pieces and cultural elements from around the world and gave it back to us in a very interesting way. Where’s the salability? Underneath it all. He had beautiful toppers and trenches and the most beautiful soft ruffled dresses. Tory Burch got it right by taking the essentials and putting them together in a new way and democratizing fashion. She’s giving us beautiful clothes at not extraordinary prices. Donna Karan took the skirt suit and dress and made it modern. Phillip Lim and Alexander Wang are speaking to a new generation and I love their vision.

“Everything looked very salable. There was an eye toward salability, yet there was enough art and newness that will compel women to buy.”

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of women's designer apparel at Nordstrom: "Designers clearly made an effort to keep their runway presentations focused, relevant and yet compelling. There is definitely optimism in the hemline, meaning...they've gone up. Not only short shorts, but short skirts and dresses. The one shoulder trend that emerged for fall continues. Knife pleats, ruffles and sequins were the feminine details that finished off the looks. Perforated leather, ruffled details, bolder prints and athletic/track suits all looked fresh. The best colors were yellow, nudes, acid greens and teals.

My favorite shows were Proenza Schouler, Oscar de la Renta and Donna Karan. In all cases we really thought our customers would respond to those collections. We're looking for [designs] our customers will find compelling. Also, Jason Wu this season took his polished perfection to new heights. It's truly special. Alexander Wang is the go-to collection for the downtown girl.

Debbi Greenberg, owner of Louis Boston: “American designers pretty much have got the pulse of what people are wanting to wear. They’re exercising their creativity. They’ve decided not to be derivative of some kind of vintage look and have moved forward with a modern approach. I’m looking for something that has a little bit of design and intellect to it.

“Brian Reyes is a perfect illustration of what I’m talking about. He’s constantly doing things that make you say, ‘That’s fresh.’ I loved the Rorschach ink block prints on dresses. When he did a frill, it was a frill of newness.

“Proenza Schouler had a lot of creativity and a lot of over the top elements that at the same time were phenomenal. They were exploring but never forgot that women will actually wear the clothes. About 70 percent of it was stuff I said ‘yes’ to.

“For past few seasons I’ve been seeing short evening pieces, which I’m really enjoying. Right now, wearing a gown isn’t the message you want to send. Also, I’m happy to see that people are finally working on pants. They’re the hardest thing to make well. I like the return of the modern suit. The Eighties was all about the suit because women had to prove themselves at work. Now, I see people exploring jackets. I’ve seen some really outstanding ones.

“In all, it was a good week. But it’s a bloodbath out there and I don’t see that changing any time soon.”

Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director of Macy’s: “It was a season of great energy, lots of options and a ton of best-seller items. The use of shine, new sequin treatments, different kinds of lamé, metallic and brocade fabrics and coats and dresses was seen at Phillip Lim. Ralph Lauren’s message was very clear and quite beautiful and very appealing. Michael Kors was very sleek and had a clean, pure aesthetic with a balance of sophisticated and easy clothes, great sweaters and jackets, and wonderful skirts in new materials. There was an interesting new take on volume at Nanette Lepore. Ruffian had great boyfriend jackets and trenchcoats. Rachel Roy was very sophisticated and beautifully made. Marc Jacobs had great energy. If you analyze every look there are some fabulous items there. Marc by Marc Jacobs was very fresh, with fabulous prints and great silhouettes. I liked the evolution of Hervé Léger, the refinement and modernity of Tuleh and I thought Chado Ralph Rucci was exceptional. I loved Donna Karan and DKNY was an excellent collection.

“I feel strongly about blouses with ruffles, tucking, pleating and ruching, the impact of color and emotional prints. We are addressing key items and intensifying that. Most stores are doing that now. When you study customer profiles, that’s the way she buys. She wants new pieces to build on her wardrobe. Designers are lowering prices at the request from retailers. They realize that there’s so much price resistance at a certain level.”

Kelly Golden, owner of Neapolitan, Chicago: “You didn’t see as much creativity this season. Fabrics weren’t as elaborate or embellished. Everything was very commercial. You want to have a product that’s commercial up to a certain point, but the customer at this end of the market wants something unique and special. I’m not sure that was fully achieved. Even designers at the high end were conscious of price, trying to keep cocktail dresses, previously $2,500, under $2,000 and taking the $1,500 day dress to under $1,000.

“Zac Posen’s show was great, some prints were fantastic and it was fresh and different from what he normally does. Derek Lam and Lela Rose had great sportswear pieces. J.Mendel had gorgeous cocktail and evening dresses and was able to manipulate his furs to where you could wear them for spring. I really liked Marc Jacobs’ knitwear with ruffles and his military coats and jackets.

Beth Buccini and Sarah Easley, co-owners of Kirna Zabête: “We loved the sexy, short oceanic dresses and Proenza Schouler and the mix of loose and tight in the ethereal dresses at Narciso Rodriguez. Also, the Japanese-inspired dresses at Thakoon. We also liked Alexander Wang, Jason Wu, L’Wren Scott and Joseph Altuzarra.”
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kimair · Oct 10, 2009

milan up next...

From Sexy to Romantic, Buyers Praise Milan Fashion Week

MILAN — Whether fembot or uberfeminine, the collections on view during Milan Fashion Week hit the right note with buyers and had them looking forward to spring.

“The Milan collections felt more commercially relevant than in recent seasons: either hot and sexy or light, fluid and romantic,” said Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel at Nordstrom.

“Overall, the Milan collections reflected an upbeat mood, with designers focusing on what they do best,” said Colleen Sherin, fashion market director at Saks Fifth Avenue.

While retailers were fatigued by the compact four-day schedule, which wound up Monday, they liked what they saw and left Milan confident their selections for spring would prompt jittery customers to part with their money. Buyers said they were working with similar budgets to last year and would spend on merit.

“Our customers continue to seek out beautiful, well-made clothes and we will support those designers that deliver on that,” said Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direction at Holt Renfrew.

“We’re focused on finding terrific items. Our customer is buying what she doesn’t have in her closet,” said Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director of Neiman Marcus.

Retailers outside the Eurozone cautioned that value for money was particularly important because of disadvantageous currency fluctuations. “With the strong euro, we will have to be more careful with what we buy. The products have to correspond rightly with the price,” said Cindy Ho, fashion and merchandising director of Villa Moda, Kuwait.

Some buyers skipped the runways, opting for showroom appointments instead. Those who didn’t said they had no problems making way on the front row for bloggers, as was the case at D&G and Dolce & Gabbana.

“I think the obsession with front-row seating is a symptom of an overactive ego. We should be thankful we’re here,” said Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction at Bloomingdale’s.

Key trends for the season included transparency and layering; lingerie detailing — particularly lace, straps and bodice, and prints, while miniskirts and dresses, shorts, floaty pants and tailored jackets were among must-have items. In terms of color, palettes swung between black and white and bold, pastel and earthy tones.

Standout collections included Aquilano.Rimondi, Bottega Veneta, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Jil Sander, Marni, Missoni, Prada, Pucci and Versace, retailers said.

Here, a rundown of what buyers had to say:

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel, Nordstrom: “It was a nice balance between the short, sexy, aggressively feminine collections in bold colors as seen in Versace, Gucci, Pucci and Dolce & Gabbana, and the more fluid, romantic collections that featured softer desert and earth colors, as seen at Jil Sander, Marni and Missoni. Key items will be miniskirts, either tight or with a bubble hem; anything perforated, laser-cut or in mesh; lacing details; novelty shorts; leather and suede in pale neutrals or bright; floral prints; soft silk dressing; anything that sparkles, and desert and earth colors.”

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus: “There was plenty to love in Milan this season with the amount of color and print. There’s much more of a focus on femininity, which our customers are always happy to see. There’s a lot of lace in Milan this season, some metallic. Transparencies look particularly beautiful when they are done in layers and leave something to the imagination. There’s also this sportif idea we saw in so many collections, with interpretations of leggings and shorts, bicycle shorts and anoraks. Shorts are becoming what the legging was for fall.”

Colleen Sherin, fashion market director, Saks Fifth Avenue: “Two key fashion messages appeared throughout. One was about ethereal beauty: a casual ease and elegance, with delicate, feminine and ultralight fabrications, tiny pleats and origami folds in relaxed and fluid shapes. The other message was sexy, bold and full of high energy, with sporty elements and body-conscious dressing. Key items include the soft, draped, relaxed pant silhouette; shorts of all varieties; sporty or fluid jackets; cocktail dresses in weightless fabrications, or sexy, body-conscious minidresses. The mini length in general is important, as are bold and innovative prints. Details include a play on asymmetry and all manners of fabric manipulation — pleating, draping, twisting, and folding — along with fringe and feather trims.”

Stephanie Solomon, vice president of fashion direction, Bloomingdale’s: “Spring was a season of contrasts, between masculine and feminine, tender and tough, soft and hard, gritty and glamorous, ethereal and visceral. Dolce & Gabbana served up a collection which was fit for the boudoir and the boardroom. Roberto Cavalli layered jackets over dresses, which were glamorous and rustic. When it was done in one outfit — like at Jil Sander, for example, where Raf Simons combined shredded and tailored looks — it was compelling. Though not a new theme, it is timely for now and it’s how women dress.…I was happy with what I saw. Every collection had something to offer. Each designer focused on true craftsmanship. Our customers will respond.”

Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direction, Holt Renfrew: “We are leaving Milan feeling positive about our buys. We will spend the same amount as in previous seasons, editing to the best with the right balance of the soft and fluid with the tailored and geometric.…We loved Gucci, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Jil Sander and Marni. Clothes were either calm and beautiful, or hard-core and sexy. Our checklist includes languid pants; soft tailored jackets; short, sexy skirts and shorts; essential shirts; feminine dresses, and bodysuits as the foundation to dressing. What we didn’t see on the runways in the form of tailored silhouettes was picked up in earlier deliveries. Off the runways, we liked Pollini, Marco de Vincenzo and Gail Sorronda from Australia.”

Linda Fargo, senior vice president and fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman: “The Italian designers drew closely on the DNA of their respective brands, consistently executed with the luxury hand and fabrications Italy is known for. For the most part, designers favored more relaxed and airier directions. There was an intelligent balance of commercial consideration with editorial content. As in New York, asymmetric, more organic silhouettes prevailed and dresses remained strong, though shorts and jackets of all lengths were increasingly important. Key elements we’re taking away from Milan include soft, sculptural volumes; transparencies; ruffling; raw-edge finishing; textural fabrics; prints of all persuasions; the bustier dress; short and shorter hemlines; washed pale palettes; mid- to light-tone grays, and Lucite detailed accessories. Noteworthy collections for us: Bottega Veneta — remarkable and refined with exquisite bag offerings; Prada’s mix of exciting, sliced-off tailoring and nostalgic prints; Gucci’s outstanding techno primitive ultrasport collection; Jil Sander’s ravaged sensual tailoring, and Fendi’s delicate dreams.”

Anita Barr, director of women’s wear, Selfridges: “Jil Sander was definitely my highlight of the week. It made the trip really worthwhile, even if overall Milan was a bit flat by comparison to other cities. Missoni, Prada and Pucci were also very enjoyable and beautifully executed. The season was very feminine, with pure whites and cleaner color palettes for added freshness. There was also a lot of flesh on show. Silhouettes were more sexy and less fluid and the focus was on individual pieces that make customers feel like a million dollars. We are launching our online store early next year and it was the first time buying for it. We have also recently opened a new floor concept called Third Floor Central for contemporary and denim brands. So 2010 is shaping up to be an exciting year.” 2320467

Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise manager of women’s apparel, Le Printemps: “Femininity, fluidity and softness underscored Milan Fashion Week and it was a breath of fresh air. Gone are the aggressive silhouettes and bling. Replacing them are short microdresses or fluid dresses in silk and muslin, some of which were layered over pants, minishorts, bloomers, boyfriend jackets, masculine trousers and some fringes. The woman’s figure is enhanced and she is beautiful. Lingerie touches, such as lace, corsets and straps, were among common details, while the color palettes were subtle, soft and powdery.…Most collections were able to balance their image, their heritage and their commercial viability. We are optimistic these collections will prompt a desire to consume.”

Tiziana Cardini, fashion director, La Rinascente: “There were two main trends: either the very sexy and provocative Ibiza party girl, which has been working very well commercially because women want to feel beautiful, or the softer, more romantic and delicate belle. These are well-defined trends, which is a positive sign, as this is what customers need in difficult moments, when they are disoriented. Women want to be beautiful and attractive. They are willing to spend to be so and enhance their femininity. Versace and Jil Sander offered the best shows. Who better than Versace to do sexy dressing? Jil Sander had a more conceptual, enigmatic sensuality, which was full of references. Pucci is going through an interesting stylistic renovation, while Roberto Cavalli was also worthy of note: He could have a copyright on sexy, but he opted for a more sensuous, lighter collection, combining feminine and romantic with men’s elements. I also liked Versus.”

Silvano Vangi, women’s buyer, Luisa Via Roma, Florence: Vangi was pleased with the research into materials designers had done and lauded the shift away from an aggressive rock image toward a superfeminine look, citing Dolce & Gabbana, in particular, who returned to its origins. He also liked the military and folk tribal influences and said jewelry and layering were strong trends, as at Roberto Cavalli, “who explored an interesting concept of juxtaposing men’s jackets and pants with feminine, flowery dresses.” He also predicted a return to PVC. “Dsquared had PVC shoes and jeans covered in that material,” Vangi said, adding Luisa Via Roma was expanding and increasing its budget for spring with new designers, such as Who’s On Next award-winners Marco de Vincenzo and Daniele Michetti for shoes.

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong: “Since July, I’ve felt consumers being more open again. They have missed the ‘joy of shopping.’ That said, it hasn’t been the best Milan season. There were far too many diaphanous, gauzy fabrics. And a lot of designers ‘went for broke’ and stayed totally on one note, which is fine when it works, but when it doesn’t, you’re in trouble. The overall trends have been monochromatic dressing, plissé and ruching, slicing at armholes, hips, waists and backs — we call it peel and reveal. There were a lot of bras and corsetry on show.”

Lianna Man, divisional merchandise manager, Joyce Boutique Limited, Hong Kong: “We’ve been very happy with the collections and I am quite confident for the season. Dresses are still a strong category, as are pants. Various versions of the harem were seen across the board with different interpretations. We’re also seeing a lot of summer suede and sheer fabrication, so showing skin is going to be a must for next season. In shoes and bags, we’re seeing lots of wrap-up/tie-ups around the ankle, with fringing in a Seventies aesthetic. We liked the Jil Sander collection, Versace, Pucci and Etro. On the sidelines, we picked up [jewelry collection] De Cotiis, which had a great design aesthetic reworking vintage pieces with new conceptual designs.”

Erin Mullaney, buying director, Browns, London: “There was a lightening of the mood in Milan with soft pastel tones, perforations, laser-cut and lace details, and it was good to see more softness in the clothes. Jil Sander was absolutely gorgeous. Raf Simons showed a very commercial pre-collection but used the show to push forward his designs. The patchwork dress and white ruffle dress were standouts. Etro was very fresh and light with feminine, fresh pastel colors. Missoni looked very good again, especially the layering. We don’t buy Prada, but the lightness was beautiful, and Versus was adorable and perfect for that young woman who wants to go to a party. We found an exciting young designer, Gabriele Colangelo, who seems to fit perfectly with the mood today, with demicouture aspects and a collection based on the way light reflects on the clothing. Overall, I am optimistic, much more than six months to a year ago. There is a complete shift in the way people are buying. There is far less ostentation. People are very price sensitive and are looking for value for money.”

Cindy Ho, fashion and merchandising director, Villa Moda, Kuwait: “Light, see-through, straightforward. These were the key words of the season.…The ‘see-through’ theme was utilized either through fabrics such as georgette or lace, or through styling with many houses opting for a layered look. The straightforward attitude was a very clear message in that pieces were very easy to wear. In particular, I very much liked the idea from Bottega Veneta of clothes being a blank canvas and it depending on the customers: You can play around and [have] your own fun. This is what we need these days, to cheer ourselves up. In general, it was an interesting season. Our customers will find something really fresh and new to buy.”
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kimair · Oct 10, 2009

finally paris...

Buyers Laud Leggy and Chic Paris Shows

PARIS — Retailers welcomed more realistic pricing from fashion houses here, as well as the shift from aggressive, Eighties-style power dressing toward more salable feminine designs.

“Everyone has gotten the message in the market that prices are something to look at. The customer is looking for beautiful price-value,” said Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director at Neiman Marcus.

While most buyers’ budgets remained flat, business sentiment has improved and attendance at the shows was good, as stores from Russia and the Middle East, as well as independent retailers, returned to Paris.

Utility chic and pretty, feminine dresses — seen as a reaction to the gloomy economy — were noted as the key trends emerging from most collections. Widely praised shows included Balenciaga, Givenchy, Chanel, Lanvin, Haider Ackermann and Stella McCartney.

Phoebe Philo’s debut at Celine also won plaudits, with buyers praising her stylish, timeless tailoring. “Celine was elegant and grown up, however, Ungaro was neither,” said Ed Burstell, buying director at Liberty of London.

Still, some retailers liked the “Los Angeles look” of Emanuel Ungaro’s brightly colored minidresses, reflecting the input of artistic adviser Lindsay Lohan. In fact, shorts and micro mini silhouettes appeared in every collection.

“In terms of trends, everybody needs to start hitting the gym because there is a lot of leg showing,” Burstell added.

Most collections marked a clear return to femininity with frills, pleats, flounces, lace and transparency. Rather than bright colors, the emphasis was on soft ice-cream shades, from whites and nudes to khakis.

Lightweight leather clothing, wedge shoes, tribal looks, shorts and more relaxed pants were noted among the other emerging trends for the spring-summer season, as well as lingerie details, as shown at Dior.

Here, a rundown of what buyers had to say:

Erin Mullaney, buying director, Browns, London: “For spring, the houses focused on commercial viability, most likely due to the fact that they were having difficulties in their own stores. There was more diversity and variety in the collections and the clothes, which were more wearable, spoke to a wider audience. Designers worked hard on pricing, too. Balenciaga, Lanvin and Alexander McQueen were very clever, with good entry level-priced pieces, so we ended up buying more. In today’s economy, buyers want to take as little risk as possible but they still want to buy winners. Alaïa, Lanvin, Balenciaga, Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen and Junya Watanabe were among the strongest collections. We are picking up two new collections, too: Haider Ackermann and Blouson Noir by Melanie Ward. In general, we are moving away from buying collections to looking for items. It is very much about the individual pieces, such as a white blouse, mixing brands again to show people how to style their wardrobes. Our budget was flat, but there have been so many strong shows we will probably increase it slightly. The Web is also very strong. September has been far better than previous months, especially the last few weeks, which have been the best weeks of the entire year. People are shopping again. The mood is definitely lifting.”

Shinji Kimura, general manager of the luxury brand business division, Takashimaya, Tokyo: “Paris showed the future direction of fashion. We were very impressed by Balenciaga, Celine and Lanvin. They all delivered a very elegant, feminine and easy atmosphere. We liked a lot the new Celine and we expect Phoebe Philo to attract many new customers, as well as please the existing ones. Japanese tastes have changed during the recession, and customers want less formal, easy-to-wear apparel, while expensive accessories like bags have become very difficult to sell. As a result, we have cut our budget by 10 percent and have shifted our focus on clothes, shoes, small leather goods and hats.”

Linda Fargo, senior vice president and fashion director, Bergdorf Goodman, New York: “Paris clearly signaled a turning point and a desire for gentler and more stable days ahead. After an embattled year with hardened fashion to match, the lighter mood stimulated our checkbooks. The legacy of French craftsmanship along with unique and luxury materials will justify price-value and longevity.

“We embraced the dualities of both soft and sharp; tailoring alongside soft sculpting and draping. Utility chic may prove to be the most compelling trend across all categories. More purist, tailored lines are appealing to our sense of order, and imply a timeless life without gimmicks. Celine led the way with this fresh movement. We are motivated by the less aggressive ‘new tribal’ with techno-ethnic prints and fringe. Clear messages were shorts, the trench, the relaxed pant and dresses. Many designers gave us their most thoughtful, balanced and inspired collections yet.”

Beth Buccini and Sarah Easley, co-owners of Kirna Zabête, New York: “Alaïa, Celine, Givenchy and Lanvin were standouts and understood how their customers want to dress. Balenciaga was also a highlight. The season was filled with plenty of things women want to wear. After such an aggressive fall, we are confident women are going to make a lot of purchases to update their wardrobe with individual pieces they can all fall in love with. We are increasing our budget by as much as 20 percent. Things are picking up; the store has been packed. The mood over all was upbeat and very positive — just what the doctor ordered.”

Stephanie Solomon, vice president and fashion director of Bloomingdale’s, New York: “The Paris runways had the most exciting color, silhouettes, prints, creative ideas that pointed to a new direction. They were upbeat and happy. This will trickle down to our customers and they will be inspired to update their wardrobe for spring 2010.” Solomon’s picks of the season were Chanel, Louis Vuitton and Dior. “I know it sounds a bit controversial, but we loved Ungaro and its sexy, draped minidresses in vibrant, happy colors. Estrella Archs is a talent to watch. Rodolfo Paglialunga recreated the legacy of Madame Vionnet with his reinterpretation of scarf prints and extraordinary dresses. Jean Paul Gaultier was on his best behavior with his new interpretation of overalls. Every designer seemed to be aware of the impact of the recession and adjusted prices to the new reality.”

Julie Gilhart, senior vice president and fashion director of Barneys New York: “Business has picked up and Paris made us feel optimistic. We’ll have to work hard in new ways to create business, but at least we will have great product to work with. Designers really tried to work hard on giving us a lot of value at more reasonable prices. Our customer has not stopped buying over-the-top pieces that cost a lot, but it has definitely slowed on more simple pieces that carry high price tags. Slim pants and zippered coats were strong and unique. Balenciaga had an extraordinary collection and works with leather like no other designer. Ann Demeulemeester crafted her tailored pieces with silver chains, and her black-and-white bird print was extraordinary. Dries Van Noten, in a season where prints reign, did the best ones. Givenchy had special pieces, especially his take on black-and-white graphics and couture-like tulle dresses. Lanvin’s color was the richest in Paris. The way he [Alber Elbaz] cuts and drapes will make women feel sexy and beautiful and therefore sell clothes. Celine’s debut tied the bow on the present Paris gave us in terms of style and great pieces to buy.”

Sarah Lerfel, buyer, Colette, Paris: “Paris is very powerful compared to the previous fashion weeks. There were fantastic shows by Alexander McQueen, Viktor & Rolf, Hussein Chalayan, Balmain, Lanvin and Gareth Pugh. I loved the energy from Andrea Crews’ show.

In terms of the color palette, beige and cream colors dominated the runways, as did a touch of army green. Floral and graphic prints also made a statement. I am in love with the accessories this season. Olympia Le Tan for her bags, scarves by Julien David, hats by Maison Michel and jewelry from Repossi, Delfina Delettrez and Tom Binns. As for the anticipated introductions, I loved Celine, it was very strong, a perfect association. Each piece made perfect sense. Ungaro was very Los Angeles, cool for many girls like Lindsay Lohan. I think the upcoming season is looking great. I am very optimistic for 2010.”

Ed Burstell, buying director, Liberty of London: “Paris was very commercial, but there was also enough design to engage people again. The strongest collections were Ann Demeulemeester, Rick Owens and Stella McCartney. While others went short, Ann Demeulemeester kept it long and slick. Rick Owens introduced a lightness that moved his aesthetic forward with couture-like detailing. The more subdued androgynous looks had a nice vibe, too, but the micro minis were at times somewhat unappealing. Looking ahead, we are cautiously optimistic and our budgets are up double digits. We had a very robust spring and fall this year, and we have beefed up our Web site considerably.”

Ken Downing, senior vice president and fashion director, Neiman Marcus: “In a season that is uncertain and in a challenged economy, designers have really focused on newness, which is paramount. Paris has really embraced femininity. The couture continues to inspire designers. There’s nothing wrong with pretty; the customer’s always looking for that. We loved the whole modern tribal idea. The influence of lingerie, when it’s done with a light touch, is going to be important. We saw varied short styles, softer pants and beautiful dresses, and I feel very strongly about denim going into the season. Favorite collections include Balenciaga, Givenchy, Chanel, Stella McCartney, the cleaned-up sportswear at Celine, as well as Lanvin, Nina Ricci, Haider Ackermann and Vionnet.”

Cindy Ho, Villa Moda, Kuwait: “Paris is still the place where you find creativity and where also all designers are showing, including U.S. and U.K. designers. I am confident about Paris this season and will spend more here with a budget increase of around 10 percent. As well as designer and luxury brands, we have added a good profile of interesting up-and-coming brands with a lower price range. We found many houses have made an effort to lower their price range in a move to target a wider clientele. The key fashion message of this season is light, femininity and, of course, short. Light and feminine are perfect for the Middle East, but it’s difficult for us to have everything short. We are asking many houses to lengthen the skirts or dresses for us. Standout collections were Lanvin, Miu Miu, Yves Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, while noteworthy lines were Vionnet, Zucca and Rue du Mail. The only disappointment was the lack of enough evening themes for our clients. The retail scene is different from a year ago, and more attention was paid to pricing this time. “

Jennifer Wheeler, vice president of designer apparel, Nordstrom: “We thought the Paris collections looked directionally strong and yet commercial. Paris’ key messages were modern femininity mixed with chic, straightforward sportswear. Key trends were optic and nature prints, lingerie inspirations, multicultural references, pleat details and masculine-feminine mixes. Key items include trenchcoats, jumpsuits, mini kilts, shorts and relaxed pants with a low drop. Pricing will be something we are aware of as we are making our buys. Our customer is looking for a price-value relationship. She is not making frivolous choices. An item can be expensive and still be compelling to the consumer if it is very special. If a collection is just expensive, or hasn’t responded by broadening their price offer to address the new consumer expectations, then we will buy it accordingly. Our favorite collections of the season were Chanel, Balenciaga, Lanvin, Dries Van Noten, Valentino and Stella McCartney, and we’re happy to be welcoming Celine back to our mix.”

Sarah Rutson, fashion director, Lane Crawford, Hong Kong: “Perception of value is key to our buy. We have looked at a number of collections, seen the perceived value and what we could sell it at, and been surprised that often the price is in-line or even below. We are picking key special looks from the runway. As for precollection, we have moved budgets from 60 percent to 70 percent due to the lateness of delivery and the short spring selling season. Because of their continued success during this economy, we are increasing budgets for Givenchy, Haider Ackermann, Alexander McQueen, Roland Mouret and Sacai. The trends — well, what haven’t we seen this week? Everything from global traveler through to romantic ruffles, pleats, lingerie finishes, sheer and a new ‘minimalist utilitarian.’ We are really getting into the whole utilitarian and khaki military look along with traveler, which sets a new tone from our precollection buy.”

Colleen Sherin, fashion market director, Saks Fifth Avenue: “Paris delivered a strong season, with designers offering choices, from pretty, ultrafeminine pieces in delicate, sheer fabrications, with ruffles, pleats, and lingerie details, to sportier options, with a relaxed, casual ease, often with military influences. Key trends include sporty jackets, from trenchcoats to safari and military styles with shoulder details; soft, relaxed pants; shirts and shirtdresses, and cocktail dresses with draping, asymmetry, and sheer layers. The mini-length continues, as do shorts, which were shown as a fresh idea for evening in Paris. Lightweight and soft glove leather appeared in many of the collections. Mixed prints and ethnic prints are key, and true color was balanced by olive, khaki, nude and black-and-white combinations. Standout collections include Chanel, Vionnet, Balmain, Celine, Lanvin, Valentino, Alexander McQueen and Dries Van Noten.”
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kimair · Oct 10, 2009

last chunk of paris...

Andrew Keith, president, Joyce Boutique Holdings Ltd., Hong Kong: “We were happy with brands that took an uncompromising approach to the season and pushed forward with innovation and creativity despite the uncertain times. Our customers are looking for newness and excitement at the moment and are responsive to collections that can deliver a new dynamic without jeopardizing fabric quality and workmanship. Although we are not intending to make any significant changes to our vendor mix this season, we always have budget open for new and exciting collections. This season, we have picked up Anthony Vaccarello. Standout collections for us were Balenciaga, Celine, Ann Demeulemeester and Alexander McQueen. Prints were a particularly strong story this season. Leather was also a strong message, but has been refined from the aggression of fall-winter. There was also a new waist definition to accentuate the new wider and fuller pant silhouettes.”

Barbara Atkin, vice president of fashion direction, Holt Renfrew: “Paris delivered an exuberant spring season. Designers seemed to be reworking their own inventiveness with back-to-their-roots collections that spoke to what made their businesses originally successful. It was a season showcasing multiple personalities, whether it is gender bending, futuristic warriors or lingerie-inspired clothes in nude colorations that speak to a sexy and flirty girlish fantasy. We will be spending a little more this year in Paris with collections that offered beautifully tailored jackets and trenchcoats, easy fluid toppers, perfect white shirts, miniskirts and shorts, bold shouldered military jackets, vests and beautiful feminine dresses. The collections we loved are Celine, Balenciaga, Balmain, Lanvin, Dries Van Noten and Alexander McQueen.”

Polina Kitsenko, co-owner, Podium, Moscow: “The mood was much more cheerful this time, very optimistic and inspired. Prices were variable. Some houses underlined affordable, commercial pieces while others are going in a more expensive direction. Some had even raised prices by 20 to 40 percent, which was a negative point for me. We have cut some budgets out entirely. However, if a collection is cool and new with a twist, you can still sell that. It is much more difficult these days to invest in younger designers, even the most talented. Celine was interesting; Ungaro was a disappointment, of course. Favorite shows included Givenchy, Balmain, Ann Demeulemeester, Nina Ricci and Isabel Marant. Chanel and Viktor & Rolf were really fun and the spectacle didn’t take away from the clothes, on the contrary. For trends we noted lots of nudes and military colors, tribal references, transparency, lace and marine, with lots of white and navy.”

Nicole Fischelis, vice president and fashion director, Macy’s: “It’s a season full of questions with designers recreating or reinventing their DNA. But through it all, a formidable energy and even joie de vivre for spring-summer 2010 which reverberates a voluntary optimism about the current climate. It’s all about coexisting and contrasting lifestyles: tailored with flou, utility and fantasy, ethnic or phantasmagoric, fusion and confusion of gender. Standout shows included Lanvin, Balmain, Karl Lagerfeld, Yohji Yamamoto, Jean Paul Gaultier, Chloé. Among contemporary designers, I loved Isabel Marant and Anne Valérie Hash. The art of craft continues to be major, especially ruffles, asymmetric and draping. Lingerie, athletic, transparencies are key. Metallics in all shades take new aspects. Leather coexists with lace. The military influence continues. Focus is on the shoulder, waist and back. It will continue to be an important season for the dress, with a lot of leg interest such as socks. The point of attraction becomes the shoe, whether flat, kitten heel or clog, but also a lot of fancy feet.”

Tancrède de Lalun, general merchandise manager of women’s apparel, Printemps, Paris: “The collections are very creative, but at the same time commercial. The designs are creative enough to encourage to buy, but at the same time they are reasonable and wearable, with pastel and nude colors for a feminine look. There are lots of dresses and pants, like men’s pants. Fashion houses have worked a lot on pricing, more than last season. At Printemps we like to offer creative fashion, but at realistic prices.”

Ikram Goldman, owner, Ikram, Chicago: “I absolutely loved the Givenchy collection and its tribal prints, Haider Ackermann and the Japanese designers, especially Junya Watanabe. I liked the focus on interesting shoulders, the pale nude and blushes, the gold and silver details that appeared in all collections. I am very excited that we are veering away from leggings toward easy, draped pants, as seen in the Haider Ackermann collection. I buy what I love, so I didn’t reduce my budget. I bought new designers, like Celine. I think Phoebe Philo is perfect for that collection. Prices came down compared with previous seasons, but just because they went down, it doesn’t mean that quality went down, too.”

Kelly Golden, owner, Neapolitan, Winnetka, Ill.: “From the ingenious tailoring and draping techniques at Lanvin to the beautiful prints and pops of color at Andrew Gn and Erdem, Paris was certainly motivating. There is definitely a romantic and optimistic feeling happening now. Hemlines are on the rise. Trends that will emerge from the runways are the color white, floral prints, transparency, ruffles and draping, asymmetry and shorts — the must-have item for the season. We’ll be adding more collections from Paris this season and feel very confident that the consumer is ready to splurge again. Standout collections were Lanvin, Andrew Gn, Valentino, Martin Grant and Erdem.”

Averyl Oates, chief buying director, Harvey Nichols: “Alexander McQueen, Balenciaga, Celine, Lanvin and Stella McCartney are all favorites for very different reasons. Alexander McQueen delivered an outstanding modern theatrical experience, which was all the more fulfilled by the well-conceived commercial collection in the showroom. Phoebe Philo bravely filled a gap in the market of timeless and elegant. Stella McCartney is having a record season in stores at the moment. Jumpsuits and harem pants featured in virtually every collection. Tribal prints were strong in many collections ranging from Dries Van Noten, Roland Mouret to simple versions in black and white at Givenchy. There is a general emphasis and return to individualism. Our customers are prepared to spend money and want to be exclusive, in a subtle way. As all designers are conscious of the new economic situation and have made great efforts to offer saleable pieces without losing their strong fashion edge, we feel confident that we can inspire our customer for spring 2010.”

Elizabeth Lepore, owner, Jimmy’s, Brooklyn and The Hamptons: “In this economy, we must present our clients with confidence and excitement. Our confidence level is up from seasons past. Finding new designer labels — trendy and well-priced — will define our vendor mix. The new short cocktail dress — rushed, puckered and embellished — will be must-haves this season. Standout collections were Jay Ahr, Zuhair Murad, Elie Saab, Giambattista Valli and Azzedine Alaia as these collections offered us fabulous party dresses.”

Karen Daskas, co-owner, Tender, Birmingham, Mich.: “I’m up against the worst economy in the United States. But my customers are in a better mood. I’m probably spending 10 percent more than I did for fall. One of the most important things to my client is exclusivity. That’s the protector of luxury. My hands-down favorite was Lanvin, and they’ve worked so hard on their prices. For details, Nina Ricci did a great job, too. There’s a softness to the season, and it’s feminine, but still has direction to it.”
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Alliecat · Oct 10, 2009

wow - excellent read. So much to absorb, and so interesting to hear what each area / shop had to say. Thanks for posting!!

cesarcmma · Oct 10, 2009

Thank you. I was waiting for this

Sooosii · Oct 10, 2009

Thanks it was interesting to read! Insightful

Crimson C.C · Oct 10, 2009

thankyou!!! the best bit i got out of it, is that they are trying to support vionnet!!! yes pleasee

ponytrot · Oct 10, 2009

love this perspective, so interesting!

LetThemEatCake · Oct 10, 2009

Thank you for all the info. I wish Neiman's offered better menswear. They really lack in that area.

Spike413 · Oct 10, 2009

It's always interesting to read these at the end of each show season, not because the designers who are listed as "favorites" ever really changes very much, but why the collections singled out by retailers were successful.

I'm not at all surprised to see names like Celine, Dries and Lanvin on so many of the lists. They seemed like money in the bank.

tatouejeremie · Oct 11, 2009

i've been looking forward to this post! thanksssssss

Scott · Oct 11, 2009

no one mentioned vandevorst? there were some fantastic pieces in that collection.

surprising too they didn't have maria luisa buyer robin schulie part of this.

Squizree · Oct 11, 2009

I knew Dolce & Gabbana would be a favourite. That collection was a complete cash magnet.

style_expert · Oct 11, 2009

I love reading this every season and I'm sort of delighted that only one or two people cited Balmain as their favourite collection...compared to the many buyers who loved it the past 2 seasons. Guess at some point they can't get over the high pricing any more.

thanks for posting this kimair

Leeroi · Oct 11, 2009

Another year with stores filled with Rodarte.

I read some mentioned not enough evening wear from Paris, and I also wondered why. Did designers forget that women still dress up for parties?

fashionismydrug · Oct 11, 2009

Scott said: ↑

no one mentioned vandevorst? there were some fantastic pieces in that collection.
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I agree I thought more people would have mentioned vandevorst as a fav...

JuiceMajor · Oct 11, 2009

Ooo...interesting read.

Spike413 · Oct 12, 2009

Leeroi said: ↑

Another year with stores filled with Rodarte.

I read some mentioned not enough evening wear from Paris, and I also wondered why. Did designers forget that women still dress up for parties?
Click to expand...

Quite the opposite, they just remembered that most women have no need for expensive party clothes and evening gowns.

It's about what people are buying, and apparently party dresses aren't it.

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