S/S 2016: Best and worst shows, general opinions...

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Fashion month is over. Do you think it has been one of the most commercial and bland seasons of your recent memory? What do you think the reasons are? Or you don't think it was bad at all and you enjoyed it a lot? 10 best shows? 10 worst shows? Any surprises?

I wanna know! I gotta think my list...
 
I thought this article was kind of interesting. It's been translated via Google translator :smile:ninja:smile:, but you get the idea:
After six days of fashion week in Paris, there is a floating sensation in the atmosphere: in great brands such as Stella McCartney and Giambattista Valli, market requirements have primacy over the creative risk. It's nothing new. It is been some time since they do that, but this season the balance between functionality and emotion is especially evident. The result is more pragmatic and real collections, ready to jump from the catwalk to the street without any adjustment. Proposals with exceptions such as Rick Owens, the most heard outside the world of fashion criticism - "This is not wearable" - but even in these cases they lack the grandeur and complexity that is supposed to the French event.

If the industry provides easily digestible proposals it seems logical that this is a symptom and not a coincidence. Last year, the collapse of the Russian ruble and the maturity of the Asian market contributed to the stagnation of the luxury sector, according to consultancy Bain & Co. Reversing this trend solution, among other measures, to increase sales.

There seems no room for experiments: what matters is the product.

[...]

Carmen Mañana

El País elpais.com

Do you guys know more articles in this vein?
 
Why did they even try to make a fashion week for this season? It was so uninspired. I feel sad in a way, because last fall was cool in its attitude. We've seen a lot of ugly clothes and rip-offs.

Best shows:
-Louis Vuitton
-Dior (it's the biggest surprise to me)
-Carven (but it wasn's as good as their Iceberg)
-Saint Laurent
-DKNY (another surprise of this season)
-Topshop Unique
-Prabal Gurung
-Gucci
-Loewe
-Courreges

Worst shows:
-Prada
-Chloé
-Iceberg and Arthur Arbesser (really, do I have to explain it?)
-Versace
-Rodarte
-DVF
-Givenchy
-Rick Owens
-Stella McCartney
-Balenciaga and Alexander Wang
 
best:
rag & bone
3.1 phillip lim
dkny
no. 21
roberto cavalli (waiting to get hate for this :lol:)
anthony vaccarello
balmain
isabel marant
celine
louis vuitton

worst:
chloe
hermes
balenciaga
maison margiela
rick owens
dolce & gabbana
moschino
and most of london :lol:
 
Favorite shows
1. Altuzarra
2. Calvin Klein
3. Dior
4. Jil Sander
5. Loewe
6. Marni
7. Miu Miu
8. Prada
9. Sportmax
10. Versace

I didn't care for Alexander Wang, Balenciaga, Céline, Chloe, and Roberto Cavalli.
 
My favorite show are

1 Jil Sander
2 Valentino
3 Michael Kors
4 The Row
5 Marni
6 Cédric Charlier
7 Hugo Boss
8 Luisa Beccaria
9 Ryan Roche
10 Margaret Howell

I must admit I've been a bit disppointed by Chloé and Hermès.
 
That was a quite bad season. I think now designers have a new challenge: make sellable and yet exciting and interesting clothes. Relevance or irrelevance is not the case anymore as the dominant aesthetic (Céline) seems to evolve or is fading.
IMO NYC and London are suffering from the lack of identity of most of their designers. The struggle is real for those who after a long and successful run of creative collections, have to make money out of it with real clothes that people may want.
Milan was maybe the biggest surprise this season as it was a bit stronger than Paris. The US & Uk press tried for years to picture Milan as an irrelevant FW but it seems like they have more cards to play.

BEST:

-LOUIS VUITTON
-TOM FORD
-VERSACE
-LOEWE
-MARC JACOBS
-COURREGES
-GUCCI
-MIU MIU
-SIMONE ROCHA

WORST:
-BALMAIN...it was just very vulgar and out of touch. While the Tom Ford proves that you can be sexy, enjoy yourself and move with his clothes, Balmain was the total opposite.
 
I think this season was terrible, almost every show was so boring and repetitive. Anyway, my favorite shows are:

Prabal Gurung
Calvin Klein
Thom Browne
Bora Aksu
Marni
Vionnet
Miu Miu
Maison Margiela
 
best

Prada
Marni
Comme des Garcons
Vetements
Lutz Huelle
Gucci
Rick Owens
Christopher Kane

Worst

Cavalli
Balenciaga/Wang
Margiela

Headscratchers:

Ann Demeulemeester
Haider Ackerman
Courreges
 
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my favourite shows

Yohji Yamamoto
Antonio Marras
Miu Miu
Comme des Garcons
Dries Van Noten
Alexander McQueen
Junya Watanabe
Thom Browne
Proenza Schouler
Margiela


also liked Gary Graham, Prada, Veronique Branquinho, A.F. Vandevorst, Marni, Simone Rocha


other than chanel, balmain, cavalli and marc jacobs (great presentation, awful clothes) i can't think of any other shows that i hated, but there was a lot of ugly. and when it wasn't ugly or tacky as hell, it was just boring and lifeless.
 
I can't think of a single show I liked. :huh:
 
My favs

Givenchy
Alexander McQueen
Saint Laurent
Tom Ford
Calvin Klein
Anthony Vaccarello
Prabal Gurung
Isabel Marant
Miu Miu
Marc Jacobs
 
Oh Lola, your passion and enthusiasm for high fashion is so infectious— this comes across so clearly in your posts… Don’t ever change.

There are always, always treasures to be found even in the most abysmal of all seasons, and I don’t think this season was as empty and hollow as some may be convinced that it is. So for me the saving grace of S/S 2016, and this takes into account the presentation and mood of the shows as well as the designs:

A.F. Vandevorst
Marc Jacobs
Prada
Thom Browne
Givenchy

Dreamy presentations with a sharp sense of craftsmanship, and a clever wit and sense of slyness that haven't forsaken wearability in the designs— and a healthy dose of attitude.
 
best

versace
saint laurent
valentino
louis vuittoon
tom ford
marni
dior

worst

balmain
prada
balenciaga
chanel
rick owens
roberto cavalli

 
Fav/Best:

- Gucci
- Proenza Schouler
- Son Jung Wan
- Vionnet
- Yohji Yamamoto
- Isabel Marant
- Lemaire
- Preen
- Tom Ford
- Phillip Lim
- Louis Vuitton
 
Best
Mugler
Versus
Versace
Marc Jacobs
Isabel Marant
Dior
Louis Vuitton

Worst
Balmain
Balenciaga

I would have put Chanel in my favs but the styling ruined it all...
 
I expected this answer from you:lol::lol::lol::lol:
:lol: I don't want to sound Bergéish, but I think the fashion industry has changed a lot in a very short period of time. Fashion is all about change, the problem is that the change is too money-driven. There's no energy anymore.

Saint Laurent has become a joke, Dior is the Parisian Jason Wu, Chanel is a mess, there's no Galliano (as we knew it), no McQueen, no Tom Ford (I know you love him, I did too, but I get you know what I mean), Ghesquière was way better before, Stefano Pilati doesn't do womenswear (although his latest collections were quite bad, but he used to 'have it'), there's no Raf at Jil, there's no Margiela, no Helmut Lang, D&G are another joke, Prada is very hit and miss, no Olivier Theyskens, Fendi is beyond boring, Hermès by Gaultier no longer exists (and it wasn't that bad), Kenzo by Marras either, Alber Elbaz is a shadow of what he was, Versace needs a complete renovation, Balenciaga is a revolving door...

And what's in? Alexander Wang, Jonathan Gimmick Anderson, the pretentiousness of Vêtements, Altuzarra, the streetwear from Hedi Slimane, the insipidity from Sarah Burton, Maria Grazia and Pier Paolo (who think there's just one silhouette in the world), Balmain by that creepy guy, Dundas' eyesore at Cavalli, and this wave of non-creators or CEOatives Directors: Massimo Giorgetti, Rodolfo Paglialunga, Nadège Vanhee, Claire Waight Keller, the Opening Ceremony guys in charge of Kenzo...

Edit: And not to talk about Givenchy! Riccardo should buy a house in Ibiza and retire forever.
 
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Overall it was a pretty weak season for me, but I usually dislike S/S anyway so that's no surprise.

Best:
Loewe
Gucci
McQueen
Dries
Lemaire
Céline
Givenchy

Wildcards:
Oscar
Versace

Disappointments:
Prada
Haider
 
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