S/S 2016: Best and worst shows, general opinions...

[Morphe]

I only care about the best tbqh.

Esteban Cortázar
Valentino
Veronique Branquinho
Akris
Vionnet
Alexander McQueen
Isabel Marant
A.F. Vandevorst
Anthony Vaccarello
Bally
Trussardi
Antonio Marras
Etro
Simonetta Ravizza
Brunello Cucinelli
Alberta Ferretti
Belstaff
Antonio Berardi
Paul Smith
Judy Wu
1205
Carmen Marc Valvo
Prabal Gurung
Sophie Theallet
Ryan Roche

Most of the "big" houses disappointed me greatly.
Terribly mediocre season.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Only a few shows stand out in my memory after all four cities -

Rodarte
Marc Jacobs
Céline

And while I didn't necessarily LOVE either, Prada and Miu Miu this season were particularly interesting propositions. Strange collections, but they have that kind of nagging effect of growing on you - or at the very least, changing your perspective.

 

[lilgruner]

New York: Givenchy

London: Versus Versace(Anna Milan Opening <3 )

Milan: Versace

Paris: Chanel and Balmain

 

[xsquared]

best:
balenciaga
comme des garcons
nina ricci
loewe
thomas tait
proenza
the row

 

[TheoG]

Little late but off the top of my head...

Narciso Rodriguez: Construction, seams, and cut is always his focus. Burnt color palette was excellent.

Paco Rabanne: Clever take on sport wear, just a great collection.

Prada: Unapologetic, focused, and straight forward. What more could you ask for.

Sacai: Always presents a level of new technique in her design, stimulating collection.

Salvatore Ferragamo: Extremely rich and fluid, unfortunate how it shows so late in the week for Milan.

 

[adrienpegon]

faves :
prada
proenza schouler
dior
comme des garcons
gucci
cédric charlier
céline
marni
valentino
the row
dries van noten
miu-miu
givenchy
mcqueen

no
jil sander ( as a jil sander fan i was disappointed rodolfo missed this one )
chanel
balmain ( as usual ew, way too vulgar )
balenciaga
galliano
saint laurent
dsquared2
stella mccartney
marc jacobs

 

[Fiercification]

Tardy to the party, but hey ho...

This season was admittedly dismal but there's one show that I keep coming back to; Marc Jacobs. My first reaction to it was indifference, there was far too much to take in. However as I keep going back to it, I find more and more details to pick out that I love, from the sports tops and varsity jackets over argyle jumpers, Napoleonic style jackets to swan motifs and pins everywhere. Similar effect to Celine last season.

It's such a rich collection. Overloaded? Yes; nowhere near as sleek and "in good taste" as his F/W 15, but an exciting collection...can't wait to see what's done with it in editorial.

Sacai was really gorgeous...I'm falling in love with Chitose Abe's aesthetic. Love the layering, the kind of hints of lingerie and those navy/gold royal combos at the end. Fantastic.

Lemaire, Yohji, Riccardo for Givenchy and (surprise) Proenza proposed simple but enjoyable collections. Really intriguing collection from Prada; a definite grower.

Nicolas is overreaching at LV, too ambitious and somehow underwhelming at the same time. Abysmal collection from Francisco at CK...looked like a kind of botched Philo tribute. I really think he's overstayed his welcome, even if I've loved a lot of his past collections.

 

[arlekindearrabal]

Best: Prada

Worst: So many...

 

[Lola701]

Now that the couture season is over....

BEST: CHANEL (By far!), MAISON MARGIELA, GAULTIER PARIS
WORST: DIOR, ALEXIS MABILLE

THE REST: BORING or UGLY...so no need to mention.

 

[Scotty]

Best:

Chanel

Worst:

Dior

The rest all boring. and MM wasn't that great either. Galliano's shows are all so dead now.

 

[Fashionstuff]

Best :
Maison Margiela
Chanel
Jean Paul Gaultier

And i like the haute Couture pieces which Riccardo Tisci sent on the runway during Givenchy menswear Show.

Worst:
Dior
Alexis Mabille
Ulyana Sergeenko
Bouchra Jarrar

The rest is simply boring.

 

[squilliam]

For couture spring 16

Best:
Chanel
Bouchra Jarrar
Ronald van der Kemp (you can see the collection on vogue.com)

Worst:
Dior
Ulyana Sergeenko

everybody else is just either forgettable or dull