Is the FW 2016 the worst season ever?

[TaylorBinque]

You know a season was extremely underwhelming when many put out a try-hard and gimmicky collections and people still praise for its 'exciting dynamic.'

Marc Jacobs took NYFW. I only like Kane at LFW. Milan had great comebacks. Prada shut it down. Thanks to Dries, Galliano and Ghesquière who saved Paris.

 

[gazebo]

Yes the times are bad.
But that makes it so much easier to pick up the best:

Marc Jacobs
Christopher Kane
Marni
Miu Miu

 

[perhydrol]

I felt just sad, because this season was incredibly boring and uninspired. I liked some collections, but I felt like nobody even tried to do something special, beautiful. On the one hand we had MFW with Prada, Marni, Trussardi and Versace (they were all good) and on the other hand PFW was a fail. It was depressing to see Lanvin, Dior, Chloé, all those big houses that should have delivered something pretty at least and failed. Loewe, Rykiel, MMM, Dries and Carven couldn't save the whole week.

NYFW was quite surprising. I'm not talking about Wang's version of Saint Laurent or Proenza's Céline wannabe. I liked Copping's work for Oscar, Lim was incredibly fresh and modern and Coach was cute. Even Victoria Beckham was cool with those big coats and new silhouettes. The rest was just bad or mediocre.

LFW was boring, I liked Gareth Pugh's and Chris Kane's collections, they were both really good, but I would expect more from them.

I just hope the next season will be better.

 

[lilgruner]

maybe it's the wrost season... but seeing models doing comebacks or being more exclusives girls in HF industry, like Marina, Rianne, Vanessa Axente around NYFW, CBN going hard, Julia begshoeff supermodel in Making all that make it a little bit more funny.. you know?

some collections sometimes are awfull... i don't know... another strange season, but it's ok

Worst:
Balenciaga
Marc Jacobs
Balmain

Best maybe Versace

 

[Creative]

I ask myself that question every season.

 

[SpeakThatJDunn]

Best: Louis Vuitton

Worst: Balmain

 

[VersaceVixen009]

Wow, I thought I was the only one who thought this as well. I literally only liked Chloe this season and that's all.

 

[jeanclaude]

I think the main problem is fast-fashion is permeating high-fashion.

The purpose of fast-fashion is copying from high designers, to let the masses wear affordable designs. And lots of garments are created in a non-stop way to allow this to happen.

But what happens when the same formula is applied to high-fashion? Disaster!!

If the ones who are going to provide the creative aspect of fashion are also copying from each other in a blatant way...what is the point of the existence of high-fashion??
They are behaving like luxury versions of Zara, copying from the only 3-4 really creative designers left out there.

And the main part of brain power of the big brands is focused only in marketing. They have turned from fashion designers into marketing designers.
Few brands seem to remember they make clothes these days. It seems all they care about is exposure and brand placement no matter what.

 

[Creative]

I'm maybe too naive, but I don't think the problem is fast fashion. I just think the problem is that there aren't great leaders anymore. And the ones that were good leaders are old and 'finished'.

I think this season was DULL. Perhaps 'bad' too, but I don't think a lot changed since last season. It's been almost the same. Céline has been weak for some seasons now, Ghesquière being as mediocre as he can be, Dior more or less in the same vein as usual... NY a total bore. Milan a total bore. Paris a total bore. I don't know. I can't think of someone who is doing something interesting.

 

[Lola701]

@Creative: you're going to make me lose faith on High Fashion

I think that the industry is waiting for it big wake-up call or it "coup de pied au derrière". And let's face it, it will not come from Dior, Balenciaga or Vetements.
We're not in a era that will create a new Tom Ford or a new Nicolas Ghesquiere.

I believe that the designer that will succeed Karl at Chanel could push the changes and bring back the excitement in fashion.
Chanel is the only big brand that create and follow it own rules. The others are just waiting to see if it will work or not before experimenting.

I also think that fashion was better/more exciting when it was more exclusive. And it stopped being exclusive 5/6 years ago when designers started to believe that they have to appeal to everyone and when we lost our hopes on an emerging scene of designers (who were supposed to be the new leaders) which started to copy Celine, Prada & Balenciaga to be relevant.

One of my stylist friend said to me that it's a pity that those big groups are not brave enough to consider hiring a Japanese designer because they are too radical..

 

[jeanclaude]

I'm maybe too naive, but I don't think the problem is fast fashion. I just think the problem is that there aren't great leaders anymore. And the ones that were good leaders are old and 'finished'.

Haven´t you thought that maybe there aren´t great leaders in fashion right now, because of following the pattern of fast-fashion system?

In fast-fashion there are not creatives, there are only followers...

 

[AnaD]

Fast fashion and social media trends have become a major factor to most houses in the past few years and it was never more apparent than this season. Everyone wants to be seen as cool and current with the Instagram crowd, so designers latch on to the people with the biggest social media followers and design collections that cater to their tastes.

Hook Anna and Chiara (and a million other 'style bloggers') as your brand ambassador/devotee and you suddenly have the attention of their backers who will make it a prioriy to buy your products. Why else have so many Instafamous (I hate that word) personalities front and centre at your shows.

It's become a popularity race, and many designers have begun to copy the work of others in order to tap into the success that they've had with the mainstream fashion crowd. They've sacrificed all that was unique and innovative with their design to do this and it's made the fashion pond dull.

 

[AnaD]

The Buisness of Fashion published an article about this very topic today, it's worth a read if anyone's interested.

http://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-show-review/the-fashion-gyre-and-the-ghost-of-martin-margiela-vetements-balenciaga-chloe-miu-miu-acne-loewe

 

[penny609]

Gotta agree with Luxx, Maud and Wolkfolk (and many others) that it's not the worst season and might be even worse somehow. Agree with the lack of inspiration and leaders. Big brands, big names are to fashion what Vogue is too often to magazines: uninspired then uninspiring. And God knows we need a thrill every now and then instead of vapid stuff or clothes made of boredom and resignation.

As for the Balenciaga-Vetements story, I remember myself reading some interview with Demna Gvasalia a few days ago and felt like I was still working in the contemporary art world. You know, this feeling that the man is smarter than the pieces and his words are more attractive than his work.

I can't say there wasn't some collections I like even if there was not many wows or whoahs. I actually enjoyed Haider Ackermann (but that's pretty usual), some Vuitton or Miu Miu things (castings included and add Gucci to the list for this part of the whole deal) but all in all, many times I got tired of the show before looking at every outfit and both New York and London seem already far, far away with almost no memory left in mind.

Casting-wise, some good and less good news. A lot of people were and still are complaining about Miu Miu while I think it was one of the best at the end of the day. Put aside a couple of useless celebs (they did neither hurt the show nor added anything to the collection) and you get one of the best group of models of the season. Was also nice to see Charlotte Free at Chanel with that blue hair of hers but Karl's neverending armies of models are always so huge that they quickly turn into his usual mish-mash.
Some good picks here and there, still too many exclusives for nothing and young sprouts with almost zero abilities for editorial stuff walking countless shows. The same old story told season after season minus the right amount of thrilling moments or tailor-made, flawless castings.

 

[penny609]

The Buisness of Fashion published an article about this very topic today, it's worth a read if anyone's interested.

http://www.businessoffashion.com/ar...vetements-balenciaga-chloe-miu-miu-acne-loewe

A good read indeed, very interesting and well written, thanks!

 

[Mrs.Smith]

The thread title indeed is big words, but I must say I have been feeling like this the whole month. I could not care for anything in NYC apart from Marc Jacobs (not saying, I loved it, either). In Milan I liked Prada, but admittedly it had to do a lot with the show as a whole, not just the collection. In Paris I liked Loewe, LV, the black/white part of Chanel. Not sure if that counts but Elie Saab was a lot better than previous seasons. I liked even Ackermann less, than I usually do.

I agree with everything that has been said about social media runing high fashion. In fact I agree with pretty much every single statement in this thread. I'm aware that other people in this forum know a lot more about design and collections than I do, but IMO the mere facts that major fashion houses are without direction and that a brand like Vêtements is THE big thing say a lot (+ add Balmain to this).

I also find it hard to relate to these collections as a 31 year old, as much as I can't relate to the edgy teenager model cast trend. I barely know what's worse for me personally, celebrity models or the angry/sad/bland very young girls.

Among the positive side issues of this fashon month was actually CBN's comeback, the soundtracks at Saab and Prada, Sasha and Stella at Prada, the h&m cast (this probably says a lot...).

 

[donyan]

I don't think it was the worst Fashion Week, but it does feel directionless and confused.
What I disliked most was how so many people try to jump on bandwagons, not doing what they feel is right for their customers but instead trying to stay "up-to-date" with the latest fashions.
I loved Prada because it stays Prada, and because it was utterly beautiful. Loved Balenciaga as well, a breath of fresh air. Vetements is still ok but I can feel it losing steam, they are starting to believe their own hype, and the effortless cool of the first few collections is turning into trashy logo-ed streetwear.
I loved Lutz this season, although it is far from perfect, but contrary to so many other designers he seems to be staying true to himself. His show felt neither forced nor desperate. It did feel fresh and new, and it might be the only collection that I'll buy stuff from come Autumn.
This season felt like Fashion in a state of Limbo, which might be a good thing, as limbo inevitably means change. I'm looking forward to next season!

 

[vetements]

@Creative: you're going to make me lose faith on High Fashion

I think that the industry is waiting for it big wake-up call or it "coup de pied au derrière". And let's face it, it will not come from Dior, Balenciaga or Vetements.
We're not in a era that will create a new Tom Ford or a new Nicolas Ghesquiere.

I believe that the designer that will succeed Karl at Chanel could push the changes and bring back the excitement in fashion.
Chanel is the only big brand that create and follow it own rules. The others are just waiting to see if it will work or not before experimenting.

I also think that fashion was better/more exciting when it was more exclusive. And it stopped being exclusive 5/6 years ago when designers started to believe that they have to appeal to everyone and when we lost our hopes on an emerging scene of designers (who were supposed to be the new leaders) which started to copy Celine, Prada & Balenciaga to be relevant.

One of my stylist friend said to me that it's a pity that those big groups are not brave enough to consider hiring a Japanese designer because they are too radical..

thats an interesting point of view. I think Japanese designers showing at Tokyo Fashion Week tend to be a little too experimental, whilst that"s ok for Tokyo street scene, they may indeed not be relevant for global markets. But Sacai has done a good job or miharayasuhiro when they move to Paris, so we ll see. Tokyo is a fantastic inspiration for ideas, Vivien Westwood, Lagerfeld, Neil Barrett, Kris Van Asche, Dries Van Noten, Elber Albaz , Tomas Maier etc have all said how inspired they are by the streetscape here.

this pfw, i like hermes/ saint laurent but will be excited for bouchra jarrar next for lanvin.


To me, fashion is officially still when i no longer see Margiela the man designing, i really miss him. nobody else can produce the kind of vision he did... these days they are just making ripples, hardly waves, but it could be due to the current trend of looking back to the 70s/80s/90S and what have you.

or it could be commercialism, maybe Mainland China being one of the major markets now, everyone has to conform to the "safe" tastes?

when this trend of rehashing old ideas goes away, maybe we will see some new ideas coming up.

 

[Creative]

This season felt like Fashion in a state of Limbo, which might be a good thing, as limbo inevitably means change. I'm looking forward to next season!

I had that feeling too! But I think it is fashion's new nature in a way. I think fashion will be like this the next years.

Haven´t you thought that maybe there aren´t great leaders in fashion right now, because of following the pattern of fast-fashion system?

In fast-fashion there are not creatives, there are only followers...

Hmmm. I don't think so. It could make sense, but I don't think that's the reality. There are still some brands that don't belong to fashion conglomerates, some young people doing their thing...

As always, I'm super afraid of sounding Bergéish, because we all know time has something that makes the past more charming than it was. But I try to be as unbiased as I can.


Just see:

Ten years ago (more or less Tom Ford (well, in 2004) at his best, Hedi Slimane at his best, Nicolas Ghesquière being a genius, Alexander McQueen (I don't like him but he was very talented and a great leader), Galliano (for his own brand and for Dior), Stefano Pilati, Alber Elbaz being a God, Prada, I've always hated D&G, but they had some spark by that time, my belooooooved Lang (till 2004), Margiela, Riccardo wasn't that bad, we had Jean Paul at Hermès, Olivier Theyskens at Ricci, Chalayan...

And what do we have now? The only surprise to me was Phoebe. She was a total bore at Chloé, yet she has done incredible things at Céline. The rest? The duo at Valentino doh, Vetements doh, they guy at Gucci (one trick pony), Wang (I love him as a person but as a designer he is just... ), Sarah Burton (cheeeesy and irrelevant), Olivier Rousteing at Balmain doh, D&G (just ridiculous), Hedi at YSL (I also adore him as a person, but he is quite a bad designer to be honest), Nadège Vanhee at Hermès makes a camel get bored...

 

[Lola701]

^^
So maybe the problem with fashion is the lack of leaders. Your "10 yearsago" list is full of leaders who had a distinctive and personal vision of fashion. You couldn't mistake Balenciaga for Gucci or Prada for D&G. It was impossible!

With the new guard of talents, those influencers from 10 years ago doesn't even have to push themselves because the competition is "poor" and because they still influence the "new guard".
Everybody is copying Nicolas Ghesquiere from 10 years ago. Why would he want to push it further? People are copying Tom Ford from 2001...so what's the point on doing something totally fresh and new?
A little few people had the nerves to copy Margiela...even if he was the most admired designer. Now, everybody is doing Margiela...