Saint Laurent - The All-Things Saint Laurent Thread

I wouldn't say that the brand is lacking direction, I would just say that the current direction is very derivative of the brand's archives. It seems to be well-received though. As good as Hedi's direction was, it's betrayed by the fact that women are somewhat secondary in his twink-utopia.
I am sure its more understood Vacarello´s update on the direction, because its very sexy IG friendly glamour, very low hanging fruits intellectually (hot long legs sexy bitchy emily in paris idea of high glamor) .

Hedi´s Saint laurent was more studied as the youthful reinterpretation of what Yves would be if he was young now, so connected to the music cultures etc but his saint laurent sold well for woman as well and the image was strong for both genders or else it did not have that crazy growth.

Sure Saint Laurent mens is dead with Vaccarello and Women's department is more strong so historically fits the house better.

I am sucker for a strong cohesive brand image that goes into every details backed by a story /concept that does not change every 3 seasons, i value credibility in vision and execution that is distinct for a brand /from its creative director.

No matter how easy to like his YSL is, it always has a emptiness of lack of authenticity to me.
 
Regarding the previews…
Can we expect another take on the pantsuit of The Smoking from YSL other than black and double breasted?
When was the last time they tried on colors!
I saw a documentary about Karl lagerfield and he said while showing a fall couture collection. That the spring ready to wear was already in production, that's two seasons down. These studio are massive lots of workers. But designing is the easy part the production is the hard part when designing jewelry and shoes you can do those on a conference call.
Karl at Chanel had two different ateliers: Haute Couture and RTW. So yes he particularly worked with a massive studio. I think it was the same at Fendi when they started Couture.
 
Well there was an assistant that posted the fittings on tiktok. I think the next show will be based on the last men’s collection with big suits but on women with ties. I don’t even know how this is even possible. I guess I have to thank the algorithm that gave me this preview before the show. But maybe this is a different collection.

View attachment 1308733View attachment 1308734View attachment 1308737 View attachment 1308735 View attachment 1308736

Looks like she leaked the right info. Women in mens suit and tie.
 
Does anyone know what happened to the live? The show starts in less than an hour and the waiting room on YouTube has yet to come up.
 
Does anyone know what happened to the live? The show starts in less than an hour and the waiting room on YouTube has yet to come up.
I just read on their Instagram caption that they’ll be live on Instagram and ysl.com only
 
A big chunk of the collection is already up on Vogue Runway. They're still uploading it. So far, not good. ☹️
 
SO!

Kering Third Quarter results 2024

Everyone knows the mess at Gucci.......ancora!
Bottega Veneta still rising....

What about YSL?

Revenue in third quarter - minus 12 to 13 %............
The Brand image is much more consistent then at Gucci...... people speak about the fashion shows...At LYST Index YSL is still high ranked. When I look into stores I see people interested in glasses, bags, shoes........

Sure-... the transparency looks sell difficult.....the oversized 80ies men suits will not sell good...
Nevertheless.... there are bags..... some shoes (unwalkable?)...

why is revenue declining? -It is not only china, most regions have declining revenues at YSL....

I thought Francesca Belletini is a clever girl...............??..

Is YSL the next falling star?
 
She's a fantasy girl she's fabulous I love it but look at those prices for that type of skirt it's a fantasy it's not meant to be sold in masses. They need to work on their bags and accessories if they're going to be producing these types of clothes.

Screenshot_20241024-114017.png Screenshot_20241024-114006.png
 
^
Indeed, the Saint Laurent woman is a fantasy, and the clothes in the latest collections speak only to a certain demographic - which limits the possible clientele.

I think it's time for AV to move on from this very appreciable, polished fantasy to a more active woman who resonates a little more with everyday life, because days in uncomfortable stilettos and a hosiery skirt just aren't possible.

If you're having that much trouble reinventing yourself, don't hesitate to get a very talented design director.

Secondly, Saint Laurent has nothing to compensate for a possible slowdown in women's fashion.

The man becomes a priority: the YSL man doesn't really speak to anyone imo. Once again, it's whimsical, unexciting, and the collections quickly become dated and dusty.

What's needed is another CD - a little less high profile than AV I guess: Umit Benan would be very good and could follow in AV's footsteps, but with collections that speak more to male customers, super-luxury clothes and everything that works with beautiful, leisurely advertising campaigns. - A dynamic similar to Alber and Lucas.
 
^
Indeed, the Saint Laurent woman is a fantasy, and the clothes in the latest collections speak only to a certain demographic - which limits the possible clientele.

I think it's time for AV to move on from this very appreciable, polished fantasy to a more active woman who resonates a little more with everyday life, because days in uncomfortable stilettos and a hosiery skirt just aren't possible.

If you're having that much trouble reinventing yourself, don't hesitate to get a very talented design director.

Secondly, Saint Laurent has nothing to compensate for a possible slowdown in women's fashion.

The man becomes a priority: the YSL man doesn't really speak to anyone imo. Once again, it's whimsical, unexciting, and the collections quickly become dated and dusty.

What's needed is another CD - a little less high profile than AV I guess: Umit Benan would be very good and could follow in AV's footsteps, but with collections that speak more to male customers, super-luxury clothes and everything that works with beautiful, leisurely advertising campaigns. - A dynamic similar to Alber and Lucas.
No they cannot change creative directors right now he's too popular and he's good for the brand he just needs to focus on more wearability. A new CD would kill that brand. I looked through their website it should be filled with more wearable clothes but they can control their image better and the size ranges but it also limits customers. Also these designers don't work around the clock like Karl lagerfield used to, they're doing too many different projects at once. Some of karl's best shows are his resort shows. They brought in extra money for the house at lower prices these designers are not focus this is hammering time there's a downturn and there's no end in sight is going to get much worse before it gets better all around. I predicted 2 years if there's no turnaround we will see these conglomerates start to sell these houses lvmh already sold off-white. It's the 80s all over again
 
^
Indeed, the Saint Laurent woman is a fantasy, and the clothes in the latest collections speak only to a certain demographic - which limits the possible clientele.

I think it's time for AV to move on from this very appreciable, polished fantasy to a more active woman who resonates a little more with everyday life, because days in uncomfortable stilettos and a hosiery skirt just aren't possible.

If you're having that much trouble reinventing yourself, don't hesitate to get a very talented design director.

Secondly, Saint Laurent has nothing to compensate for a possible slowdown in women's fashion.

The man becomes a priority: the YSL man doesn't really speak to anyone imo. Once again, it's whimsical, unexciting, and the collections quickly become dated and dusty.

What's needed is another CD - a little less high profile than AV I guess: Umit Benan would be very good and could follow in AV's footsteps, but with collections that speak more to male customers, super-luxury clothes and everything that works with beautiful, leisurely advertising campaigns. - A dynamic similar to Alber and Lucas.
Umit Benan would be a good choice.
It's obvious YSL menswear is always an afterthought of the womenswear in AV's universe.
 

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