Saint Laurent F/W 2019.20 Paris

No matter how hard he tried to pay hommage to Betty Catroux, this rendition of Tom Ford’s first collection for YSL is just bad.
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche S/S 2001 is just untouchable!
Thinking about that, Tom Ford better do a rendition of that instead of milking his 1996 collections over and over again.

I want to like this collection but it’s just flat compared to the one it’s inspired from.

Seriously, the comeback of platform shoes is a bad idea.
 
Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche S/S 2001 is just untouchable!

Totally! Since the moment I saw the first looks here, I immediatly though "Is this guy daring to play Tom Ford debut for YSL?" Tom´s first collection for YSL was pure, streamlined and ultra-sophisticated.

But this collection lacks any personality at all. It begins with the Ford wannabe looks (with an overdose of shoulder pads ). Then is a mixture between Balmain by Decarnin and Saint Laurent by Slimane...and the embarrassment finale part taken from a 1986 disco ("look, fluor colours which glow in the dark...woow!").

So in the end, it feels Tom Ford, Decarnin and Slimane...but where is Vaccarello, when he is actually being paid big bucks to make his vision at Saint Laurent ??
 
God I loved the finale with the models walking out under the UV lights (already watched it multiple times on YouTube), completely reminded me of the opening sequence to James Bond's 'A View to a Kill' and with the music... I thought it was brilliant.

Also loved the Betty Catroux hair inspiration, the shoulder pads, the mini dresses. A shameless and unashamed Vaccarello fan right here!
 
actually theres about 4 looks i like, bit disappointed by this

the end part is a nice idea though
 
I really like his stuff for Womens and I think it's where he puts all of his effort and vision.

The menswear is just too similar to what Slimane did for SL. It'd be so much nicer if he did something completely different from what SL used to be under Slimane's direction
 
This was a pleasure to watch. Hate him all you want but he brings fashion EVERY SINGLE TIME.

After two weeks of the most boring fashion shows in New York, London and Milan, THIS SHOW felt like a breath of fresh air.

I really cannot care less about a collection from 2001. No Disrespect though, I loved Tom´s YSL but this is 2019 and everything about this collection felt just right; modern, cool, sophisticated, luxurious and aspirational

Love love love Vaccarello! :heart:
 
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Love this. What’s good is good and give the credit where it’s due.
 
Some of his best tailoring yet.

Those opening coats with the exaggerated shoulder are quite strong and he's finally improving at the tailoring of his pieces.

His strongest collections have been those that also reference Tom Ford's helm at YSL and this is no exception.

He's doing the codes that Hedi established at the house better than Hedi is doing at Celine and previously did at YSL.

The glow in the dark segment is definitely gimmicky for the current Instagram like/click bait times we are in but it was fun and enjoyable to watch.
 
The problem here is that the fashion he always brings is someone´s else fashion from years (or decades) ago...
Which is frustrating because his own collections were fine, modern and sexy.
He is relying too much on the archives...unfortunately.
 
Really just more of the same but the finale was cool I'll admit. The runway/presentation definitely made everything look better but I can't help thinking that it's been wasted on such a mediocre collection.
 
I can admit Anthony knows how to put on a show.

But taking off my glow in the glasses, its all pretty standard. Not a lot of risk, its very comfortable. He's capable of more.
 

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