Saint Laurent Menswear F/W 2023.24 Paris

[LadyJunon]

 

[Yasouss]

Beautiful venue, the clothes feel like an afterthought and pale in comparison to the women's offering.

 

[GERGIN]

It’s pretty much the Saint Laurent womenswear winter 22.23 and spring 23 collection on men.

 

[yslforever]

Beautiful venue, the clothes feel like an afterthought and pale in comparison to the women's offering.

That's the purpose, they are selling an aesthetic : dark sophisticated romantic, with sharp tailoring in black velvet, muslin, satin, gros-grain. The clothes are an accessory to this vision.
I actually don't mind this point of view: fashion does not have to be innovative every season, it just have to be good and somehow elevated.
And it is indeed good, and I'll be among the first to go to the boutiques when those sweater-dresses are introduced.

 

[YohjiAddict]

Maybe I just have awful eyesight but I couldn’t really make out the details of the clothes, that was one dark venue. Indeed it was moody and romantic, to a fault.

Charlotte on the piano was the real highlight for me, she’s always so poised.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[LadyJunon]

I appreciate that the menswear (SS23 and this show) is looking less and less Hedi and more Anthony, it's handsome, moody, but charming. Could've done with a slightly more adult casting though.

 

[yslforever]

Maybe I just have awful eyesight but I couldn’t really make out the details of the clothes, that was one dark venue. Indeed it was moody and romantic, to a fault.

Charlotte on the piano was the real highlight for me, she’s always so poised.

Oh god !!!!!! She's paid, and most of her career is due to her surname; she doesn't hold 5% of her father talent.
Her contract was 2 m€ a year, now reduced to 1.5 because YSL is investing in her museum project.

 

[yslforever]

I appreciate that the menswear (SS23 and this show) is looking less and less Hedi and more Anthony, it's handsome, moody, but charming. Could've done with a slightly more adult casting though.

I fully agree, I m a 40 yo man, still tall, skinny but can't relate to boys who are not even in their first shave. I can totally wear the clothes but maybe a 30 yo model, or bearded, or mustached or a little bit stockier... I don't know how women process those shows with teenager girls.

 

[jeanclaude]

I am so tired of this lite cross-dressing in almost all collections.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I think it's cool he's doing the non-binary thing because it actually makes sense to do for the house, but this just feels very affected and one-dimensional.

You take away the big shoulders, billowy ties, and floor length hems and what's left?

Not much.

Also, it kinda looks like cheesy vampire costumes. Very Anne Rice.

 

[LadyJunon]

I fully agree, I m a 40 yo man, still tall, skinny but can't relate to boys who are not even in their first shave. I can totally wear the clothes but maybe a 30 yo model, or bearded, or mustached or a little bit stockier... I don't know how women process those shows with teenager girls.

I personally don't notice the casting until the second or third viewing, unless the models are directed to take centre stage (streetcasting/celebrity/ supermodel specialised choreography) or there's a runway mishap.

My main issue is that I personally don't like it when the model doesn't match the clothes they were casted for. This collection of very romantic, dramatic, almost macho clothes swallows up the cast of slouching shrinking violets wearing them. It's on the same wavelength of casting Naomi Campbell and Linda Evangelista in Blumarine, Diesel and KNWLS.

 

[Lola701]

Charlotte was the highlight! She looked fabulous fabulous in those pants! Insane…

The collection felt really like womenswear on skinny boys. I think Anthony took this approach because he is more comfortable in womenswear and not because he has something special to say in menswear…

It looked like a caricature and the cut of those jackets and coats is weird…This won’t look good on anyone. It’s not versatile enough…
It’s almost a pity Hedi is not showing because he would have gave a real lesson.

The sad thing for me is that Anthony is in a house that had a real strong heritage in terms of menswear not because of the founder but because of the designers who took the helm after. Yves had his suits made to measure…He made clothes for artists and had a line but it wasn’t distinctive in style for me. Hedi gave a credible interpretation of that aesthetic in menswear. Tom did a great menswear and designed one of his best menswear collection ever there (I will never stop talking about that FW2002 show) and Stefano had a real pov. His stuff was bourgeois but risky with touches of feminity (I think about capes with a pink lining, cocoon shapes).

I can wear those clothes but I don’t know any man I would to see wear this. Anthony is not Haider Ackermann…

 

[IndigoHomme]

I consider it an extremely solid and safe collection, but now that I see it in a show, I have realized that the editing of the videos of previous presentations adds more drama to the clothes than this show

 

[Avonlea]

Beautiful venue, the clothes feel like an afterthought and pale in comparison to the women's offering.

That's because he doesn't have a huge menswear archive to copy from.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

 

[Deleted member 7575]

The collection felt really like womenswear on skinny boys. I think Anthony took this approach because he is more comfortable in womenswear and not because he has something special to say in menswear…

It looked like a caricature and the cut of those jackets and coats is weird…This won’t look good on anyone. It’s not versatile enough…
It’s almost a pity Hedi is not showing because he would have gave a real lesson.

The sad thing for me is that Anthony is in a house that had a real strong heritage in terms of menswear not because of the founder but because of the designers who took the helm after. Yves had his suits made to measure…He made clothes for artists and had a line but it wasn’t distinctive in style for me. Hedi gave a credible interpretation of that aesthetic in menswear. Tom did a great menswear and designed one of his best menswear collection ever there (I will never stop talking about that FW2002 show) and Stefano had a real pov. His stuff was bourgeois but risky with touches of feminity (I think about capes with a pink lining, cocoon shapes).

I can wear those clothes but I don’t know any man I would to see wear this. Anthony is not Haider Ackermann…

Everything, all of this right here ⬆️.

 

[Frederic01]

It seems I'm in the minority, but I personally loved this collection. It's chic and sophisticated and probably the best menswear collection he has designed thus far.

The shape of those coats with all that volume in the back was quite sublime. I'm so glad to see he is working on cut and silhouette instead of surface decoration.

This is an evolution for Vaccarello and I respect him for trying to move it forward in terms of actual design and allure.

I don't think you can compare this to Hedi at all. He has already shown that he can't evolve as a designer. He's superb at evolving and developing his skills as a merchandiser and marketing extraordinaire, but as an actual designer? I don't think so.

 

[THD96]

I'm obsessed with the soundtrack, every season I'm waiting for SebastiAn's music as much as I'm waiting for the clothes.

I'm usually not warm to Anthony's offering in menswear but I like this collection.
I think it's slick, tightly edited, and matches the vision of his womenswear.
Considering that I'm going crazy for those floor-length coats and jackets for the women's show, I'm very happy that he also does it for the men.

One thing I have to say is that I wish he would use more colors. Too many black clothes, a pop of red, green, or yellow could do wonder for the collection.

Charlotte was the highlight! She looked fabulous fabulous in those pants! Insane…

I thought you said you were already tired of Charlotte in SL. What's changed?