Saint Laurent Menswear F/W 2025.26 Paris

I am guilty, just shopped today 7 pieces from the Spring Summer lookbook, I ll probably buy from this one.
But there definitely are micro-changes in cut and fabrics you can only spot on the store floor. They aren't noticeable in lookbooks and shows.
Shows are not necessary to the collection, they only serve the brands images.
Living up to your username 🙏
 
Well, as repetitive as it may seem, Vaccarello's Saint Laurent works, without looking ignorant of the house's codes as was often the case with Slimane's offerings. Pairing fairly regular suiting with leather waders (which look rather nice btw, love the square front) is a styling trick, but it makes sense for a brand founded by a man who wore suits to attend raunchy parties with Jacques de Bascher. If anything, it brings to mind scenes from the stylistically exquisite Saint Laurent film by Bertrand Bonello.

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Well, as repetitive as it may seem, Vaccarello's Saint Laurent works, without looking ignorant of the house's codes as was often the case with Slimane's offerings. Pairing fairly regular suiting with leather waders (which look rather nice btw, love the square front) is a styling trick, but it makes sense for a brand founded by a man who wore suits to attend raunchy parties with Jacques de Bascher. If anything, it brings to mind scenes from the stylistically exquisite Saint Laurent film by Bertrand Bonello.

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Is that a— well.

I don’t consider anything to be a Saint Laurent menswear code. What I think Anthony is doing is either a caricature of YSL the man or the YSL woman in drag. Nothing about his propositions makes sense in practical menswear. It’s all set dressing.
 
Is that a— well.

I don’t consider anything to be a Saint Laurent menswear code. What I think Anthony is doing is either a caricature of YSL the man or the YSL woman in drag. Nothing about his propositions makes sense in practical menswear. It’s all set dressing.
I'd argue that there definitely are Saint Laurent menswear codes, it's just that most people forgot about them because it's been years of black skinny jeans and leather perfectos in their stores.
 
Only JPG ever managed to incorporate bondage into men's high fashion with sophistication.

SLP pretty much has no men's codes. TF created them based on YSLs own wardrobe which was very 70s. TF centered the Le Smoking Pour Homme and that still informed both Stefano and Hedi's SLP. Hedi Slimane moved SLP Homme to a different decade while still maintaining the codes.

To me SLP codes are the Tom-distilled ones. Practical Eveningwear, All-day Cocktailwear. Pilati and Slimane both expanded that with a whole lifestyle for a Le Smoking Homme. To me SLP has the most glamorous menswear image out of all the Parisian labels.
 
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1 summery beige blazer, with shirt and darker brown trousers
1 grey prince of wales blazer, with the silk striped shirt and black trousers .
All very similar of what I already have.
I m waiting for a total prince of wales look too. Silk charmeuse shirt and wool pants, with a scarf.
No belts no shoes for the moment.
I'd like the Y Cabas but can't choose a colourway.
Do you have any of the oversized suits? Are they really that big or just sized up for the runway look? And if they are that big, to sort of events do you wear them? I can't place where in the casual/formal scale they're supposed to fall.

I walked through a YSL store last week and the selection looked better and much more wearable than the runway show. But I didn't look too closely because I feel bad taking SAs' time when I don't intend to buy that day.
 
1 summery beige blazer, with shirt and darker brown trousers
1 grey prince of wales blazer, with the silk striped shirt and black trousers .
All very similar of what I already have.
I m waiting for a total prince of wales look too. Silk charmeuse shirt and wool pants, with a scarf.
No belts no shoes for the moment.
I'd like the Y Cabas but can't choose a colourway.
You should add pics, for those of us who're curious to see what the retail version looks like.
 
^^ I'm passing through Milan for a few hours I went to the YSL flagship in hopes to try on the suits. They've been shoving these suits for so long down our throats that it finally got to me and made me enter a YSL store which I hadn't done in years. They had what I believe is the Resort collection if I remember the lookbook well.

I too was curious to see what's the actual fit of these jackets and I've to say... It's perfect... The fabrics are really great, colours are right (blues don't feel like cheap navy, beiges are not too muted, the ties also are proposed in gorgeous palette of colours...) but most of all, the fit is incredible. It's not as massive as they do in the show, it's the right touch of oversize that doesn't feel clownish or try-hard.

The only downside was the client experience. Too many SAs that are more busy chit-chatting than working (often the case in Milan's luxury stores I've to say...) than helping out. And I really had to push to be given other proposals than what was on the racks... A bit "service minimum" as we say... Also Mens merchandising was really bland. If I didn't know what they were supposed to offer, I'd have probably walked out as on display were just a couple of jackets, an ugly leather bomber, and a couple of knits. Merch definitely doesn't reflect the vibe they want to project in the shows and campaigns, they should look into that.
 

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