Saint Laurent Menswear F/W 2025.26 Paris

I am guilty, just shopped today 7 pieces from the Spring Summer lookbook, I ll probably buy from this one.
But there definitely are micro-changes in cut and fabrics you can only spot on the store floor. They aren't noticeable in lookbooks and shows.
Shows are not necessary to the collection, they only serve the brands images.
Living up to your username 🙏
 
Well, as repetitive as it may seem, Vaccarello's Saint Laurent works, without looking ignorant of the house's codes as was often the case with Slimane's offerings. Pairing fairly regular suiting with leather waders (which look rather nice btw, love the square front) is a styling trick, but it makes sense for a brand founded by a man who wore suits to attend raunchy parties with Jacques de Bascher. If anything, it brings to mind scenes from the stylistically exquisite Saint Laurent film by Bertrand Bonello.

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Well, as repetitive as it may seem, Vaccarello's Saint Laurent works, without looking ignorant of the house's codes as was often the case with Slimane's offerings. Pairing fairly regular suiting with leather waders (which look rather nice btw, love the square front) is a styling trick, but it makes sense for a brand founded by a man who wore suits to attend raunchy parties with Jacques de Bascher. If anything, it brings to mind scenes from the stylistically exquisite Saint Laurent film by Bertrand Bonello.

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Is that a— well.

I don’t consider anything to be a Saint Laurent menswear code. What I think Anthony is doing is either a caricature of YSL the man or the YSL woman in drag. Nothing about his propositions makes sense in practical menswear. It’s all set dressing.
 
Is that a— well.

I don’t consider anything to be a Saint Laurent menswear code. What I think Anthony is doing is either a caricature of YSL the man or the YSL woman in drag. Nothing about his propositions makes sense in practical menswear. It’s all set dressing.
I'd argue that there definitely are Saint Laurent menswear codes, it's just that most people forgot about them because it's been years of black skinny jeans and leather perfectos in their stores.
 
Only JPG ever managed to incorporate bondage into men's high fashion with sophistication.

SLP pretty much has no men's codes. TF created them based on YSLs own wardrobe which was very 70s. TF centered the Le Smoking Pour Homme and that still informed both Stefano and Hedi's SLP. Hedi Slimane moved SLP Homme to a different decade while still maintaining the codes.

To me SLP codes are the Tom-distilled ones. Practical Eveningwear, All-day Cocktailwear. Pilati and Slimane both expanded that with a whole lifestyle for a Le Smoking Homme. To me SLP has the most glamorous menswear image out of all the Parisian labels.
 
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